Category: US Cars Forum

Moin! It’s about my Blazer k5 Bj1982 with 350 engine. I want to mount additional inserts and I’m interested in how you did it. In any case for the oil pressure. Oil pumping is perhaps not wrong and voltmeters can’t hurt either. Which instruments are good from your point of view? You can get rid of real money, but there’s also a set of 3 instruments for 30 to 50€. Do you know them? Are they also good? And how/where did you have the built-in / connected? ask: 1. Which instruments are a must? 2. Do you have experience with the favorable instruments? 3. Mechanical or electric? 4. How/Where are the feelers best installed? Would I be happy if you had some helpful tips for me.

Hi together, my friend was with his Mustang Bj.7/2013 which he has been driving for 1.5 years at the Tüv. Of course, various defects were found… Since I am not an Ami screwdriver, I hope for a few tips from you here The first flaw that makes me worry is: Headlights, Absence left Hell-Dark-Border / Lichbild inadmissible (EM), furthermore the headlight Matt is and has humidity entry. The second: Wheels / tires, tire marking 1. and 2. axle Admissibility not according to Rejected according to ZB1 215/65R17 Since the headlight is Matt, there is probably only a new one in question, there is only the question which one? The problem with the light-dark border have all US headlights, right? If no which would not cause any problems, can not yet say for sure whether it is the normal or xenon, but I will write here tomorrow. I can’t think of anything about the tyres because actually both 215/65R17 and 225/60R17 are registered, but e I guess there’s only the 225/60R17 in the ZB, where do I get a tire release? Hope you can give me some tips and I can help bring the pony through the tuv. *EDIT* Do I see the right thing about the pony that has every screw inch size?

Hello US car driver, my 1979 Buick Riviera S-Type has the following problem: After a short drive, smoke of burnt oil rises from the left cylinder bench. It definitely does not come from the valve cover, the seal I have just renewed. I have done everything clean, but can’t find a place where the oil comes out. If I run the engine in idle, it starts smoking at the place where the channel of the oil measuring rod disappears down. Somewhere down there it seems then off f to drop the exhaust manifold… But you can neither see from below nor from above where the oil comes out, because there is a sheet in front of it, which hides the manifold (see photo). The cooling water is absolutely clean, from the exhaust comes no white smoke and also the spark plug image is fine, why I first exclude the cylinder head seal. Does anyone have an idea where the problem might lie? Greetings Michael

Hello, I am the Benni and my family and I have the following problem. Our Dodge Ram 2500 pickup is on June 22, 2010 2 years in the workshop and there is no end in sight. I describe the short form… in 2008 the engine started to rattle. =Cracked valve = statement of our US workshop: Smallness approx. 1000 €. As far as so good. After about 3 months he was still not repaired and we handed everything over to the lawyer after setting the deadline. However, jet zt 2 nozzles on the engine defective?!? The U.S.-Futzi has meanwhile “without that we knew it” put it into another workshop. Meanwhile there was already a procedure and so on. Furthermore, an expert report has been prepared, which clearly proves that the damage to two nozzles has been caused by foreign influence (I think the head has fallen down) At any rate there is no end in sight. He or the other workshop, in which the car is standing does not give it out, since it is now about 5000 Euro I would like to go to the public with my case, that is to say to TV shows or similar. Who knows more shows like “A case for Escher”. Furthermore, I have already thought about whether to turn to the picture newspaper. I am happy about every suggestion. I hope you can help me and our car is not there for another year. Thank you in advance LG Benni PS: If there is interest, I could auc h times make an exact listing of what has happened so far!

the chevrolet gearbox th 400 is equipped with an o-ring on the gearbox output shaft in front of the gearing. for what is the intended ? in the mounted gearbox output cover the bronze socket is pressed with the lubricating groove, which has a larger diameter than the outer diameter of the o-ring. why is this o-ring on the shaft ?https://img.motor-talk.de/JxhW6E6bUHEE9eFS.10.jpghttps://img.motor-talk.de/JxhW6BGk4o5ghlSa.10.jpg

I’m going to open a new thread because it moved away from the actual question: I’m considering converting a 78 F250 460cui from 2WD to 4×4. I would only buy the vehicle if the conversion was manageable… Material would have to be at least 1 distribution gearbox with flange part to the transmission, 1 front axle with the same transmission as HA and 2 other cardan shafts What about the entire axle suspension? Steering is certainly different, isn’t it? Some things in question (Dodge, Chrysler, GMC, Jeep) or should it come from an F250? Up to which years of construction you can look there? The net is full of parts, but what fits there and what does not, I have no plan. Just as an example:https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/995516286-223-2866 I want to be able to estimate what comes to me. Not that I open up after a huge construction site, which will never be finished. VG Mattze

Hello together, I’m looking for a muscle or ponycar from the period 68-73. Actually I wanted a Firebird Formula 70-73, only those are almost impossible to get. My budget so about 30K€, but then ready to drive in a two condition. Or of course cheaper and then do something else, so the price fits. But what alternatives are there? I was told by a US screwdriver that the F-Bodys always don’t feel really fast, no matter how much steam you put in it. , but they would run very well, and especially from the chassis So there would be something else besides Camaro and Mustang, which you could recommend ? it also depends on performance, but if necessary I would have it done later with new investment. Thank you already once in advance !

Good morning, I am currently driving a C63s AMG and am looking for a successor from June. Through an acquaintance I got the “tip” to drive the CTS-V sample. At the beginning of the week I had a short-term test drive. I have to say the first impression was more positive than thought of both the quality and the overall impression of the brand. The vehicle had about 25,000 km mileage was from 2016 and the price was 50% of the new price. At the first driving impression the sound was completely different and you had to let it work for the first time. The AMG is louder and sounds more aggressive. The 650hp were not really impressive at the beginning of the highway, because my 63s incl. 102 fuel is really good in the fabric. After 30-40km and time and again full throttle the car went at once much better than the beginning and friends came up. I also think the “cheap” fuel was fueled and the wagon had everything that was possible at that time. Now my question and concerns: 1. Are there any weaknesses in the CTS-V models from the year 2015 onwards? 2. Unfortunately I didn’t look at the verb. Again and again you leave in forums of extremely high values this is correct? 3. What about the resale of Cadillac? 4. Are there still things to consider? Many greetings

Hello together, the friendly TÜV man was with me and made an inspection for the full acceptance. He has faulted among other things the front turn signals. I have to change the white light bulbs in yellow. There are two shop lamps available 12v 21/5W with two height-delayed pins. I do not know why a two-fade lamp is built in. There is also always only one thread, both with the turn signal and with the warning turn signal. For the permanent light is an extra lamp available. The TÜV man n also talked about dyeing the lamps orange with felt pins or something. Does anyone have experience with it or knows where I can get the lamps with the height-shifted pins in yellow? Haven’t found them in the net yet.

Hello to each other, I bought last year an Import Mustang GT 2010 4.7 V8 Premium from a local dealer. I now have the following problem with the weighing machine, I don’t know about this yet but I have TÜV in July of this year…. According to a DB measurement, the good piece was 110-118 DB with false ignitions, according to the vehicle license, of course, he can only have 75 DB, during the last inspection in September I have looked more thoroughly but no middle class allmämpfer found, so I assume that the mustang had none at the time. At least I didn’t see any on ebay with all the original systems, only the bells under the H after the cats. The rear silencers are at least the same optically as the original ones, both have their Ford badge on it, so I assume that the ESD has been cleared empty, with the AU that my buddy made spontaneously yesterday nothing came out that on an empty n KAT or something, if you could see it at all, as I said there is no expert knowledge. What should be mentioned, strangely enough, the colder the engine / exhaust is the louder it buzzes of itself, if I leave it completely cold it really bubbles. I would of course let the AU make with a buddy the certified and with the to our GTÜ which presses the eyes anyway, even with middle silencers which are actually only empty pipes however would mic h it ́s really interesting how this sound comes about now, if an import car gets muffler installed you can make it out by any characteristics? Zsb. at a glance into the tailpipes. I would like to fix the problem if the examiner waved off, and would like to be on the road with the conscience that my sweetheart will not be directly shut down and towed, even if it seems to care with us in upper Swabia no police officer It’s a car.