Category: US Cars Forum

Hello, Recently I received my US-CAR (Import), a Mercury Cougar 1973 XR7 351cui (Cleveland) 2v. After the oil change, I wanted to start the engine, it also started using starting aid spray immediately. After a short time I discovered at the carburetor, the gasoline leaks out, but in not a small amount. It was already a large puddle under the engine. Since I do not know exactly what problem I ask here. I assume that something with the float is not in order or the Sch The carburettor is a motorcraft 2100, 2v. pictures are included. In the 2 picture, the 2 red markings show the places where the gasoline is released in the carburettor. I am happy about every answer.

Hello together, I bought a Mustang and drove with the over 700km at a time (Berlin-Stuttgart) shortly before arrival the engine started to stutter, at the beginning only briefly… the next day permanent. It is more of a knock, from 2500RPM sounds like 1.2 cylinders do not ignite… Before that it has gone off properly, especially at upper speeds. Verbated on the engine are: Alukopfe Edelbrock E-Street, Edelbrock Vergaser 1403 500cfm, Roller tipper lever 1.6, camshaft no indication n, Summit intake spider. I went out of the worn-out ignition system and changed the following after the order: spark plugs, ignition cable, distributor of Petronix installed. Now it starts even better, but still the same symptoms… I controlled ignition pint, at 35 degrees total timing unchanged. Since the highway did not drive at all and that makes me sad, hope someone has a good tip for me? MfG Oldilove

Hello guys, so I drive a Deville Bauj. 1998 standard version. At the Cadi the shock absorbers (conventional suspension) were so slow. So since car checked from below times and ordered at Rockauto ne list shock absorbers rear (Arnott) with autom. level compensation suspension springs pendulum supports rear crossbar rear The rest of the rear axle was OK front axle almost the same spring legs front (Arnott) suspension springs pendulum support crossbars Since I am currently a little under stress I had all the parts installed in a workshop. When I picked up the vehicle I noticed that the Cadi is generally a little higher. Then I drove home and I thought I was hit, the whole front car is Bretthart jumps and dances around like stupid. Arrived at home and then looked at what’s going on. quite tight in the front, but still licks down and springs after… The left side can hardly be pushed down at all. Now my question is possibly the new shock absorber defective ? or did the workshop do something wrong during installation.. At first glance everything looks good, springs sit perfectly etc. Has one of you ever had such a thing. Greeting Ralf from Wiesbaden

Hello, but I’m new for more than 10 years. Have a problem with o.g. Fzg. Has often run out during the ride. at once he has not jumped any more. Error code: pcm p0372, p1377, …….all sensors I have already changed .icm with ignition coils. Battery Optima, mass points everything checked.Now the engine runs but the car does not drive. as soon as I operate the gear lever the engine goes off. and leases itself no more. But when I go to the parking brake and the solvent, Gear on P. then he rolls back a few centimeters then he jumps again and runs like on the first day. I have to do with a mechanical problem or electric. Again: as soon as I want to insert the gear the engine dies out. then no matter how often he tries to start it he does not jump on. It is enough that I press the fixed-sell brake and then mostly unlock Manuel and the car rolls back 2 cm as far as it allows in the transmission on P. then he immediately jumps on again as if it is n Each time in a certain position he jumps on. if I want to leave he goes off. It is: I push the lever into the switch position to the right and then very quickly on D. to pass the R N position. Then he winds up a right turn. then he goes off- the engine. Then he jumps again until he has found “his position “. Mt the symptoms I have no PDC signal and no return lights .brake and position everything ok. I think there is a connection Where Thank you to DonC.

Fun aside… is probably a random name likeness. In addition, “our spechti would hardly start the article with ecologically correct whining about size and consumption… http://m.spiegel.de/…/…scalade-im-test-trumps-trumm-a-1223600.html The understandable enthusiasm about the Escalade, which then succumbs to this mirror woodpecker, could come very well from the real spechti: “If you can arrange yourself with the dimensions, there is in return a never The Escalade is a pleasant glider without sporty ambitions, a comfortably tuned giant SUV, into which Cadillac felt all the extras that can be bought in the car scene at all. This reminds a little bit of 1957, when the Eldorado Broughham came on the market. The flagship with the tail fins was then the most expensive Cadillac ever and had an extraordinary equipment for the then time – for example an air-conditioned Today, these are things like head-up display, Bose surround audio system, three-zone climate control, cooled compartment in the centre console or the Magnetic Ride Control suspension. The latter adapts the shock absorbers to the road condition within a few milliseconds.

For our 1974 C10 I am still looking for good, well-driving, if possible white wall tyres in the size 235/75 R15. On our Mercury we have Maxxis first the tires were good even in rain and the whisper asphalt, surprisingly good, after 4 years and around 6000mls, well goes like that. Since the C10 is to be used even more, but it pushes well over the 11 year old pellet in rain, briefly around, it should be good new here. After the following picture from the brochure like white wall, if they de I looked at some tests, Maxxis, Cooper… but what do they say. On our hhr are also flaps, which according to tests are supposed to be rather crap, we were even recommended and top, we are more than satisfied. Therefore our question with which white wall tires you have the best experiences.?

Who doesn’t know this? The beloved car is on strike, needs some love, should become more beautiful and you don’t have the time or the know-how to screw around the car. So you have to get a suitable workshop! Now good advice is expensive, after all, US car workshops do not grow on the trees and many free workshops already wave thankingly at Americans. The problem is familiar to you? This is how many beginners and old rabbits in the US car scene are doing! Here we want to create some remedy. We deliberately rub because most of the recommendations come directly from our community! From the data of the old, unfortunately fallen asleep, workshop thread a filterable online table is conjured up which should stay up to date this time. The table is based on Google tables and thus remain sustainably available under the same link!To keep the list up to date, you need your help. If you have found a usable workshop that is still NOT in the list, write d he data please with name, contact details, address and a few comments in the comments. I then try to incorporate the data into the list. Then hopefully a rich and above all sustainable list should emerge from it. And please, look also really PREVIOUSly into the list whether your workshop is already there.Please note: The list does not claim to be complete or correct, because workshops do not only close up on but also on time. that there is no longer a workshop, just let me know and I’ll take you out. Nobody will be paid here for the workshops being listed here. Here I have really only collected the recommendations of the community or the results of my own research. Neither I nor Motor-Talk therefore assume a guarantee that the workshop also fits for you or meets your requirements. Here everyone has to get a picture of whether they match their sweetheart. The list is only intended to facilitate the search for a workshop that, according to its own statement, deals with US cars and expressly does not constitute a recommendation that is carved in stone. Long speech short meaning, here the link:Click me!

Hello I’m a newcomer in this field, but I’m a little confused as slowly as I am. I hear the US diesel and gasoline engines are “indestructible” to my mind. On the other hand, I’m always warned by them (SWINGER). Is it possible to point out certain models of US pick ups that are suitable for German road traffic via the BJ. and engine types. Have certain diseases been repaired from a certain BJ.? I’m still thinking between diesel and Gasoline. Can you make recommendations here? IT SHOULD BE A DODGE RAM ! Maybe one or the other user of the experience with a Ram has his point of view here. Or is there even someone from the Saarland with whom I could meet? THANK YOU SWOOP100

Hello, I have a Ford expedition with the Triton 5.4 V8 engine. Unfortunately, it eats too much fuel (20-24 l) and is not splashy enough for me. And the V8 bugs me. I live in South America. The fuel is not expensive, but scarce. I’m considering whether I can change the vehicle to the successor (25,000-30,000 €) or have the engine fitted with the gearbox by the successor. I heard that the 3.5 V6 should not be so good (gear belt in oil?). If the 3.5 V6 is a good thing. First of all, it’s a philosophyhread to see if I should deal with the engine at all or not. Thank you very much Lexenlewax

Moin to all owners/ex-owners of the Corvette C7, I would like to know if the C7 is susceptible to repairs and if so, which exactly. I have heard from some Americans that the Corvette should be generally vulnerable, but I don’t know if this is related to their extreme tuning measures. I’m more interested in the “Stock” version, maximum with another modified exhaust system. Look forward to your experiences! LG