Category: US Cars Forum

Mojn, have had my G20 converted to LPG in order to annoy our finance minister, Landirenzo Venturi. But I’m not quite satisfied yet. Although the new workshop here in MA has done a very clean job, it’s still a bit difficult to adjust, I hope it’s a problem of attitude. For example, when driving in the OD with cruise control around 100, I have a permanent light jerk, not on petrol. ng with this car and a Venturi?? Thank you Tom

Ey people drive an Oldsmobile 98 Regency Built 1978!400cui! my 3-speed transmission no longer switches up in the drive.It can only drive one more gear; but it has normal power transmission!! Is now my gearbox dead or the converter!?

Hello, should the minimum thickness of the rear brake jaws of a Camaro 1977 know ??? there may be a trick as I can test the rear brake cylinder if they are still ok ???? Thanks Achim

The following problem: I find the Trans Am of the 3rd generation simply horny, but I am only 18 and therefore not very wealthy. Would it be realistic if the car as a second car was aired over my daddy (perhaps classification 100% or so), that an 18 year old with a training fee of 400-500€ mtl. could provide the support for a Trans Am TPI? Or if at all the Firebird would be more possible. Did not know who else I should consult.

what do real ami-drivers think about the crossfire?

Hi people, some have read my thread about the size of nem V8. The question is related to the topic of what was discussed. So now my question. What for (US) cars are there the 1st to the 20 years old are 2. cheap (range 0 – 2000 ? especially broken) 3. the approximately the size of a Toyota Supra or Ford sample (both BJ 80s 90s) especially the size is important, the car should not be the outer dimensions of a 2nd gene. Camaro have been especially much smaller 4. if possible only in 2 seats 5. from house 200 – 300 hp have had (so that the remaining vehicle construction also withstands the new motor forces without which I have to renew everything 🙂 6. Front motor – rear drive 7. A gear shift has (or also automatic) 8. Looks reasonably sporty No matter from any manufacturer, no matter where, no matter what. Just write in some suggestions here. I’m open to anything. Thx Fallout Boy

so I have a question: I want to get an ami sledge. and that should not be a new builder but one who drives still normal. since such a part costs a lot of coal (tax/verse) I would like to register it as 07 (oldtimer). so only 1970s models come into question. I would like to have an el camino or 68 chevelle or something in the direction. can someone give me tips what really costs and where you buy something like that best? I ban azubi therefore have to add to be reasonably priced and maintained accordingly. Greetings

Moin, yesterday wanted to retrofit a cigarette lighter in my G20.Have taken Dauerplus (secured with an external fuse holder), put mass to the body,but it doesn’t work.Standingly, the fuse on the external fuse holder blows through me.What can this be about?Help, I’m despairing slowly!

I was on the performance test bench of evotech last year, which measured 3 times, I could hardly believe the result. a standard performance of 278 ps was measured at that time, although the car should have 350-380 ps with the whole tuning crams. (according to previous owners and geiger) these 278 ps correspond approximately to the serial performance. tuning includes, cylinder head machining, sharp nock, f awning curved geiger c1 , powerchip geiger c1 and the bora exhaust system. besides, rim suspension brakes were changed which is important in this case net. the car has automatic, the performance diagram of the automatic test was a standard power of 241 ps. when manually switched up then it was the 278 ps. what can cause this power failure? was then at geiger, who said everything was ok. but that can’t be at all, they probably don’t know their own car… actually come I can hardly get faster than 240, o on 100 are about 6 sec. with manual power up. both have to be better, especially the end speed. no matter where I was, no one has ever really been able to help me so far and now it’s soon april, then I want to get it right again. I’m just not a screwdriver or mechanic, I don’t know myself great about what these things are about. I have the 2 power diagram here e attached, that with automatic, the other than by hand from 1 in 2 in 3 then turned up in 4 the image best magnify…hope it is what is recognizable

what do you think? what block is your favorite. small or big block? if small block, am I contrary to the majority(350) for the 327 ci 5.4L. it is more economical, but you can get more out of it in terms of performance. the given already as standard with 375 hp. if 350ci then already the lt1 from 1970. but I would prefer, if it has to be a new small block times, the 327. he is grateful in the standard condition and gets the best results in tuning. tja and big block? if not exactly original in a uto available and intended, I’m not so excited. but if I do then I find the 454 or a 502 newer date good. I always scare off with the later installed the thermal, weights, and at the end nevertheless poor performance yield problems. with the yield I mean, you often notice not much. although you always hear from some super–6 -8 L and PS without end, but rarely you notice something of it on the road. at the end you have n pile of liter-ps consumption and that’s it. at most no but for the garage use-naja. what do you think? small or big? if SB which? if BB which? is worth your opinion after the change from SB to BB? the experiences would be interesting.