Hello, I bought myself a 1967 Impala Sedan 4 Door (with B column) from the USA. Unfortunately the condition is worse than on the photos, what was to be expected. The substance is relatively good, hardly rust (from California). Now I am unsure how I should proceed most meaningfully and would be happy if someone had or had a similar experience or had a similar project. The car arrived fresh from the USA. He obviously has one at the rear times (larger? At the same time, the importer from Munich can also take over the restoration etc.. I’m just not sure how to do the best thing here. My planned procedure: 1. Have a technical inspection of the car and make H-deduction 2. After that let the body etc. look at and do work and painting Nothing against the US car dealer (until now only positive experiences) however, I would like to get other opinions as well what the S It would be my favorite thing if I could lay hands on myself, but I lack the necessary know-how. Someone from Southern Bavaria among you who starts a similar project? I would be happy about opinions or suggestions. Thank you Markus
Category: US Cars Forum
-
Electrical tool searched
Hi, but a tool doesn’t know the English name. In the videos on YouTube ScannerDanner always uses a tool with which he basically picks up electrical cables similar to a needle and then measures the voltage. After the measurement the insulation of the pickled cable is sealed again. Does someone like the tool know about it. Video about it, starting at minute 19:13https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcQdITo_AOA
-
Carburettor problem Rochester Quadrajet?
Hi, I have a 305 engine here with Rochester Quadrajet carburetor. The car was standing for 3 years and ran in front. The car runs normally in idle, but has no power if you want to drive and does not turn up when driving. In idle, however, it does. However, if you put in a gear and give gas, the speed goes up for a short time and it goes off. But then it takes off and it has no power. Even if you give full throttle, it no longer turns up and only lasts the idle throttle. If, however, you “pump” with the accelerator pedal, it turns up and drives normally. It seems to me that it does not get enough petrol in driving mode. The short turning up after the initial gas giving or driving during the pump is probably thanks to the accelerator pump. I have built the carburettor down and disassembled it. But can not find any attached nozzles or similar. Does anyone have an idea where the problem could come from or what I look at more closely so The choke is not clamped and there are several blind plugs on the carburetor. Currently it is connected as follows (see photo 1). – 1: Gasoline supply – 2: Blindly laid – 3: Crankcase ventilation via valve cover – 4: Blindly laid – 5: Underpressure box Ignition distributor – Gearbox gets vacuum over the suction bridge Does the carburetor look from below original as on the 2nd picture? It looks a little like there were holes welded there. Best regards! Jens
-
GMC G30 RV
Moin people! I had bought a GMC G30 RV, which I have upgraded in just under 3 months, transferred it on his own axle almost 100KM and he drove very well, when following he jumped directly again, now after 3 months he just doesn’t want any more. He moans slightly after gasoline at the start process, already 3x the battery is empty (should anyway a new one in) Since I wanted to drive to the TÜV on Monday to get me a list of defects (or f Is this now rather modest that the good piece doesn’t want to start anymore… What can I test first? Unfortunately, I don’t have much idea with US vehicles, you can’t really get on the engine, because it sits more or less under the cab (which can’t be tilted ) Would I be happy about tips.
-
My ex, you Thunderird
In my own case, my ex had called today and asked for help. Vehicle is a 2006 Thunderbird V8 3.9L – 4V. Automatic gearbox 5R55N. No problem what’s wrong with ? Car goes off, ah yes. I, give you tomorrow the OBD scanner with instructions. Short analysis by phone. Engine starts in P and N, speed by 750 rpm should be ok after deregulating cold start. Vehicle is moveable in N, so brakes go off, ABS does not complain. Parking lock goes out there goes out in N. As soon as R or D is inserted, the machine is strangled. Oil level gears on site would still be to be tested. But even if too little should not have any propulsion but not choke off the engine. Do you have ideas for possible causes. Think of this as wrongly regulated gear pressure. But I’m not fit at the 5R55N. Thanks Ralla
-
my experiences in selling US vintage cars
I’m not a dealer, but every one or two years I sell a car from my stock. I don’t want to keep my experience from you. I think it’s a market with very thin supply and very thin demand. With the last two cars it took many weeks for anyone to sign up at all, but with the second car it’s oddly three within a week. So you have to have a long breath, but under pressure is selling these cars. price cuts do nothing. I think that a potential interested person thinks at the most: if the car is so cheap, he will already have some Macke.Conclusion: who has a well-kept car in good condition should not offer it under value and calculate it two or three months until it is sold. Even if no one calls for weeks – at some point the right car comes – and if it lasts three months.
-
Ford Mustang gt 2011 malfunctions 2 cylinders and 8 cylinders
Good evening, I have the following problem with my 2011 Ford Mustang GT 5.0. If I’m on the move faster, speak with more speed the engine control lamp lights up and it doesn’t run properly anymore, so not on all pots and has no more power. And if it no longer flashes or extinguishes the control light then it has power again. Now I have read it out and it spits out 3 error codes. That is PO300, P0302, P0308. And now I’m finished with my Latin, which could be the problem.
-
What do you think of the Le Baron?
Hi. I’m driving a Golf 3. Would like to sell this because I don’t want to buy it anymore! I wanted to get a convertible now. Somehow I came across a Chrysler Le Baron. Here’s a few dates: EUR 3.000 First registration 07/1982 Mileage 131000 kW/PS 63/86 Outer colour White Interior colour Brown Gearbox Automatic Cylinder 4 Engine displacement 2197 cm3 Doors 2 Seats 4 Vehicle type Oldtimer Empty weight 1230 kg HU-Test 07/2008 I like the design of the car that it is very All is still original. Only the roof looks never so beautiful (but no holes or so…only age-relatedly asubebeblecht and so). The owner has always driven the car with about 9 liters of hard drive, which I would think would be human! The car has well already 130,000km….is that too much for an Ami? Ode holds the still for a while. According to the seller the car is nciht an and never had to be brought bigger into the workshop. What costs such a box of taxes and insurance ? Would there be car running over my father !. what do you think of the offer ? Oh yes, still what… what do you mean … does the dare sell well after a few years ? Also he , no idea , already has his 180.000 km on it ??
-
Pontiac Firebird Ko!
Hello everyone, have a bigger problem. My Firebird 3.1L has stood still for 5 months. Now if I let him go he will go but he dies after 5 min and then he won’t go on anymore. What I noticed is that the pear “engine soon” turns on and off. What’s going on? Thanks to everyone!!!! Christian
-
Pontiac Catalina – Engine boiled after hose spacer
Moin, picked up my thickness from Dinslaken on the weekend – home journey approx. 600km. In between the Vmax tested – at 140 the speedo needle ran into nowhere and simply stopped there. Think that there are 180-190 in it. It lurks something, but pulls always further… Anyway, then about 50km before home the upper cooler hose, which leads to the thermostat, burst up with a loud bang of the length. Motor immediately shut down and let roll out. One – the box rolls but also el The joy did not last long: despite filling up new cooling water in balance tanks AND coolers, the engine boiled up within a few kilometers. When the storage trays came out clacking, I immediately switched off. Hood on – it hissed and boiled a little in the area of the heads. Looked into the cooler – faded empty. Suddenly, the water from the supply container glaciated. My guess: Thermostat defective – but that during the ride? On the weekend I take it out and put it in boiling water. Maybe the WaPu is also over – but first after the thermostat. Oil was not in the water and vice versa nothing to see. Your thoughts about it? LG – MT