Category: US Cars Forum

Hello together, I got a 1960 Cadillac from the USA and wanted to register him without changing anything to the Red 07 number, but there probably changed in April 2007 what and it is demanded that almost everything should be changed in German. Has an experience with the registration from 1960 Caddy and can tell me what and how I have to change everything for our super, super German TüV to register my Caddy, lamps ? if yes, which also fit the car, so with curved glass, only Ablendlich or also high-light ? Standlight ? Blinker ? Datasheet ? Wanblinker ? Rear stretcher ? Milestacho with Km make ? if yes where about ? only with stroke or pay ? etc. Thank you for your help ! Greetings Dieter

Hello, as already stated in the title I am looking for my ex army chevrolet k30 some NATO parts like the nato clutch. I don’t know exactly how this has to look because it has been removed by the previous owner. maybe someone still has a home he wants to get rid of. furthermore I am looking for the 4 LED camlights that are sunk in the bumper. maybe someone can explain the exact function to me. the switch is still available and the cables are still all available , the leds are only unfortunately all for the German road traffic unrepeatably out of operation. (are installed in the back of the led-camouflage light brake light and closing light? I see there I think 4 single leds in 1 led-camouflage light. why is in the rear led a yellow led and what color are the front leds?) then I need the load class sign or also called troop board. the round sign which sits at the front left of the car on the bumper. Can anyone say even more precisely? (what exactly does this sign say and how are the number combinations to be decrypted?) where we are currently deciding on the number code, can anyone tell me after which chema the numberoenkombination were arranged at the original us symbol? there are at the front and back of the vehicle 2 white fields each with a combination of numbers, according to which chema the numbers were created? the number belongs to the troop name or the jew hurried cash or are the numbers completely arbitrary? so as I said I would like to buy you the parts from which I am looking, please make me a price offer. friendly greetings from v8mauxy

Hi you I assume that almost all of you here in the forum are connoisseurs and could use your help in relation to Cadillacs Eldorado of the years 1991 to 2002 (8th generation) I am currently driving my driver’s license and will then drive through the other side with a tear bowl to gain some experience. However, my dream car is the above-mentioned Eldorado of Cadillac and would like to read a few tips about this vehicle or what I should pay attention to. What does the maintenance cost about like e.g. insurance etc.? And above all what does a conversion to car gas cost because 20l inner-city at 305 hp are not easy to carry for German conditions. I would be grateful for any help. I would like to know beforehand what awaits me before I get this car, does not want to pay me stupidly and stupidly. Thanks in advance

Moin all on the other hand! I’ve got my 03 tahoe and am very happy with the car. Only one annoying: There is no confirmation message with the ZV…. Unfortunately this point is hidden in the on-board computer. I know that in D the “tweaking” of the horn is forbidden, but every small car has a blinker confirmation… 🙁 With my Explorer this was already like this: apparently all vehicles imported from US have experienced a complete shutdown of the confirmation, as one probably not the horn al Now my question: can it be “scratched” again? At Chevy in the workshop, one is stubborn – “that’s not possible!” Is that true? Best regards, consrade

good tomorrow friends … I actually have two to do today, but first of all to the rims, I noticed that I have the same rims on my Chevy, like the 67er impala from the TV series supernatural.. from the rim manufacturer cragar super spoke quality moderate, just garbage, but look cool, I find.. only the supernatural impala has really fat wheels on it, so it’s really good for me, it also seems to me on the photos that my rims and wheels don’t so much are wide … do you think there are already 10×15 he wide at the back of the 4door coupe ?? maybe someone knows the exact ripe and rim size, I find in the net nothing suitable to do with it ….. now to my other, can I perhaps tell myself whether these rear kotflügel capped or however one calls the dinger, which are at the back side, from equipment to equipment are different?? can you simply lose the weight I have in the net many 69 convertibles without I find through this part the wheels go too deep into the pipe, look really shit, my personal opinion … here is a par photos of my and the 67s 4door coupe I find the rims mature combi just great I stand there when such a box has matured really fat on the back

Hello together I have a small problem with my k10 stepside. I have installed a 383cui. stroker in the pond and have constantly a gearbox damage (th350). either the converter bell leaves or the complete housing travels the length after on or the planets are traveling. is now the 4 transmission on 2000km that I have scrapped and don’t know any more. is here jmd who knows about it or can help me ? times some data from the bowl. 383 stroker with 360kw th350 with distribution gearbox (all-wheel) 2x oil cooler 18x39x15 mt with original axle translation 12 bolzaen.Remember the overstepping is far too long for the tyres

my husband and I want to adopt a new/old family member. here we enter new country … we hope here a few advices, which make and models or model years would be advisable and from which beginners should rather leave the fingers (reperatures, spare parts and “model typical defects” he should: at least 30 years old not more expensive than 10,000 V8 super sound max. 5,60 long, so that he can stay in his garage would be great with German approval strassenkreutzer or Pick up …. or combination (el camino – Ranchero) engine power is not in the foreground … must blubber and you must be able to cruise space theremund plus max 100km he does not have to win a paint prize but “tight” and ready to drive have plenty of chrome to poll … 🙂 he should not: never have been registered in Germany his reperature again: it is here an attempt of orientation for us !!! I hope for someone who says now: hmmm… let ma rather the finger v on nem buick, there are no spare parts and the seals are to be exchanged from year on hate-nich-seen only under large wall … prefer nen el camino 67er or nen ranchero 70er … by the way have found a 70er ranchero with switch gear 🙂 I think great. — that this is not as easy as described above “fluffig” I know myself. so before I write my name here …. wait for resonantz and hope for the best 🙂

Hey, on the weekend I happened to come to an offer for a Pontiac 6000 LE, which has been driving in Germany for 2 years with Canadian papers. The purchase price is VB 200€. Since I now have the possibility for a garage, I will pick up the Pontiac next Friday and have it inspected in the workshop by a buddy on stage. Purely externally, except for a few rust spots (small at the fender and lower edge of the rear doors) are actually all sheets in order and w The machine is a 2.4-inch 4 cylinder and was allegedly sold at Mitsubishi as well and would have G-Kat. Can anyone confirm that? The engine started immediately, ran through the start program cleanly, then controlled the speed down and surred like Schmidt’s cat. The air conditioning also ran right away. Now I don’t plan to use the Pontiac as a daily car (the golf is better there), but maybe later as a summer car. Now my questions: – Where should I look for rust in particular? – What must be done next to braking system, chassis and liquids? – How easy is the registration with Canadian papers and how is the insurance classified? And are there people who drive around a Pontiac from 1986 for exchange of experience? This is what it looks like: http://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~neufr/pic/Pontiac/24062006187.jpg Greetings, Franz

Hello dear people. at the moment I am setting an extreme world record. I’m trying to build a mustang with a double v8 engine in the engine room and another 2 v6 in the rear. but the engines should be of muszang, just like the chassis and the car body as well. the rest will be self-made. you have a few tips where I get all the infos e.g. size of the engines and data about the chassis and the car body thank you in advance your ManWithHeart

hello municipality, I have a problem car a 99er lincoln towncar 120 inch. have changed the front brake calipers…as well of course also the brake pads and discs front. –> ventilated…..and since then I have at the brake pedal brake pressure with standing motor and as soon as I start the motor the brake pedal falls to the ground..no more braking force…only after repeated pumping to the last 2 cm in front of the floor..and that’s not really good. -the brake system has been repeatedly ventilated -brake system at the front again completely checked (everything new) -back drum brakes, new bearings, springs etc. -main brake cylinder new -brake force destroyer new still still with standing motor counter pressure from the brake pedal and as soon as the engine is started, the brake pedal..no counter pressure falls more. now the workshop on Monday the ABS system is checked… “in the air venting, manuel air was brought into the ABS block and the bypas “What do you think of this?? I don’t think I have to mention what the whole fun and spare parts procurement has already cost me and wait for deliveries from the usa..:-(( lg pascal