Category: US Cars Forum

Moin together, so that the torn screw does not sink into the differencealthread, here an extra thread to it. Problem: Screw rips off when turning out and the thread is stuck in the hole. Who doesn’t know it … What to do? Left turner is broken with me after rust releaser and WD 40-cur and at all, this has never worked with this strange corkscrew. At least with me. So drill out again, what is tricky, because the left turner is indeed hardened material. And then ? As a home remedy would i try to hit a torx in the hole and then carefully try to turn the remaining thread with ratchet. This can of course tear off as well. Then there are other tools like the screw-driver, e.g. here. https://www.ebay.de/itm/264001995455?chn=ps. Does that do what or are these also misconstructions? Are there further recommendations and tips? Greeting Achim

Hello Oldie-Fangemeinde, my Catalina Safari goes into the painting from next week. Until he is back, I need a few spare parts, but I don’t know what these are called, neither in German nor in English. Have already looked a little at RockAuto among the universal parts, but there are really a lot of them – and many look extremely similar… Maybe you can help me with the selection and I would have some questions right away: – First of all need Is it possible to use universal parts? – The small triangular window in the rear doors – there is the seal as hard as plastic and crumbles away. I don’t think that this is a universal part. The disc is not glued in either, therefore – you get to buy this seal, and if so – where? – The middle bridge between ver Is that correct? If yes – where do I start with the dismantling? Is there also the decorative strip on the outside… – I am still looking for door seals for the front doors – so far without success. I already have the rear ones. Who can call me a US shop – hits the keys, boys. For the rear seals I have paid 60 USD plus inch/shipment – the front seals should not be more expensive either. and you easily pay 200 – and I don’t want to finance any of its thick AMG… – How do you take out the front/back side windows? The rear ones are only half retractable, so they have to be removed for the exchange of the seals. – Is there perhaps the inner door handles covered with brown leather still to buy? I mean those that are attached to the top of the doorboard with chrome-plated holders. I unfortunately don’t have a picture… The one on the driver’s side is already over. – Hec Is there still and if yes – where? – the most important question: Water has run through the roof rail and the chrome trims on the roof. The entire roof has set flight grate, which is not further tragic. Worse is that the water has run down the A-pillar and has damaged it quite strongly. The same picture in the trunk – the rust has already raged in the rear light shafts. Can one seal these beams? Otherwise I have to enter the Sour apple bite and put 2 blobs of body glue around the screw holes – then the part is also immortalized on the roof… – Yesterday cut out the front window. Unfortunately some decorative moulding clips went with broken. Reason were sometimes, because the front window was not professionally mounted – extremely much glue on the sides, disc not centered and the clips were partly glued with. These clips have a long hole and are on small pins If yes – where? – the chrome trims on the roof are fixed from above with TX screws. These have a small sealing ring, which I would like to exchange with. Think that the screws are offered. For hints I am very grateful. Last but not least: The Visko fan is apparently defective – the car is crying like a vacuum cleaner. The fan is already turning at full power, even if the engine is still cold. If so – do you have an address to which I can contact? I would also need a heat switch for the water cycle. Has anyone ever done the conversion before? If so – where do I get the parts and maybe there are help in the net? These would have been the most important questions now. Look forward to your answers. My regards – Maik My regards – Maik

Buying advice Ford Mustang 5th generation 5L V8 model 2010-2013 I’m about to get a 5th generation Mustang GT Premium with manual transmission. The vehicle has an EZ / BJ of 02/2015 with almost 27TKM mileage. It comes from California and has been in DE since 08/2018, all papers and German letters are already available. Test drive is on Saturday What to watch? I mean, the good piece is just three years young Was just made: a) Dekra report, b) komple c) Customer Service NEW I look forward to receiving your feedback LG

Hello oldie friends, I still wanted to ask if you can adjust the switching points for the automatic transmission of the Catalina’s series 2B (series VI from ’77) – and if yes: where respectively how? I think that the switching process from the first to the second is a little too high. Especially in the case of cold engine, the switching threshold from the – 1th to the 2nd gear is about 45km/h or at approx. 35-40km/h if I take the gas away – from the 2nd to the 3rd at approx. 45-50km/h. The warm motor is then switched from the – 1th in the 2nd at approx. 30-35km/h – from the 2nd in the 3rd at 40-45km/h. With more gas of course significantly higher touring. Oil level was a little low – have already refilled a little. After that I was not able to see so much to make a significant change. The 2nd thing: In the case of a cold motor, the gearbox switches slightly rough from the first in the 2nd. Can you also change this or would be a comprehensive repair of needs ? Also here – I know, the thing with the glass ball and the distance. But maybe you still have tips and tricks where I can start. In the carburetor thread I was recommended a repair guide for the car. Are there possibly also gear settings in there?

The winter is approaching, the gold piece from Wixom has been stored professionally and so the coming weeks will probably become dreary and grey. So that I do not fall into winter depression, I thought, I get myself by subscription some sunshine in the form of a magazine on the topic of Vintage US Cars in the house – only which ones? The German-language journals “Chrom & Flamme” and “Street Magazines” are quite nice, but journalistically too unpretentious for me. “Car & Driver”, “Road & Track” and “Motor Trend” beha Unfortunately, most of all current vehicles, which I am not particularly interested in personally, “Classic Motorsports is heavy on motorsport – and that finally brings me to my question: What are you reading like this? Which (brand independent) Classic US Car magazine do you like so much that you can recommend it to others? If there is nothing good in the magazine sector, of course, good books can be recommended as well…

Hello fellow forists & experts, I’ve been a silent reader in your great forum for a long time and have signed up now because it’s getting serious for me. I need (will) a Dodge Challenger. Simply because I like it. Either a new car – then my budget (max. 40,000) is enough for a V6. Or a used V8. Or just a used cheaper SXT. Now to my problem: Unfortunately, I’m not so fit in the matter that I can rule out using the used car. I have been checking the offers at mobile.de for months, but which dealer (somehow it is only a handful and always the same) is to be trusted? Do you have a tip for me, I am grateful for every hint. I also came across www.diepruefer.de. For 150 € the used ones check through. Does that tell you what? Thanks in advance and nice greetings Chris

Heyho, I’m currently looking for a US car (max. 10k) to be independent of the Buick PA (the PA has become too vulnerable to me). I’ve been looking at a 2002 Cadillac Deville DHS, the condition was really more than okay, the underbody was like new. The engine compartment had a similar condition to my PA (screws/screws modern ahead of it). And yet I had a strange gut feeling as if it wasn’t supposed to be mine. The interior was “good” as the one from the PA. were a dream and since he was a DHS, he had a bench in front and no single seats. Now my question, what do you drive like this in everyday life or maybe only on isolated days of the week. At the moment I am a bit down and perplexed, have read too much about the Northstar (until 2004) and also about the GM 3.6 where one literally (YT-Video) was of the opinion “never buy a 3.6, never….its trash”. Hard words, too bad, I wanted to look over to the CTS right away. But what more could I do? Anyway, the fact that the newer the years of construction will be the less displacement will be installed in the limousines, but that’s just my personal problem.

Greetings, Now I’ve finally fixed this problem… two days later I notice that the rear is always so extremely high up… After 1-2 more days the onboard computer tells me to check the chassis… So I just just got down the right rear wheel and see immediately how the shock absorber runs out… The rubber is extremely cracked and it’s probably going out -.- (see picture) I know that the shock absorbers are really expensive… With Rockauto I find for the STS Links + Right for just under 800€ Original damper. Also there are those listed by the SLS the piece 120€ I can also take? Then there are still some of KYB for 60€ there stands the air leveling unit own, so is that still the air suspension or are they just crappy? and not recommended. I know that you can exchange the also for normal dampers for not even 30-50€ with a resistance there is then also no on-board computer complaining. However, I do not want to give the “glide” . Is it possible to fix it again, at least for one or two months? If I drive on for weeks now, that’s bad? Does that have any effect? Should I consider what? Furthermore, my question can be changed yourself? I guess it’s not that easy because of the spring…

Hello, I actually come from the Japanese corner and have only a very manageable idea of Americans, but I think everyone started that way. I’ve been pregnant for years with the idea of buying an eight-cylinder as a Sunday car. I’ve been looking a little more closely in this direction since spring and this week has helped a little bit of chance. I went looking for a limousine, not a PickUp, and wanted to be big and typically American. We have a classic car tractor in the family, which is objectively unreasonable, but is also a lot of fun, the direction of impact should be clear. My choice was the Dodge Charger with V8 Hemi. I find the current model chic, but the price falls from the budget and if I have read in correctly, they are now also stuffed with electronics and this is something I do myself. By chance, this week a Charger fell in front of my feet, I copier ma l see data here: Dodge Charger SRT 8 Condition Accident-free Category Sports Cars / Coupé Kilometer 99.300 km Capacity 6.100 cm3 Power 317 kW (431 hp) Fuel Type Petrol Number of seats 5 Number of doors 4/5 Gearbox Automatic Pollutant class Euro4 Environmental badge 4 (Green) First registration 12/2006 HU 10/2020 Air conditioning 2-zone automatic air conditioning Colour Black Metallic Interior Alcantara, Black The car has a 6.1L Hemi engine with 432hp, the usual SRT equipment All inspections and repairs have always been carried out on time in workshops. Thus and due to various Tüv reports, the mileage is easily understandable. Carfax on pictures available. Accordingly, the technical condition of the vehicle is very good ! Further special features: – Mopar sports exhaust – Mopar suction system – Android multimedia system installed from a workshop and thus as usual from the steering wheel to be used Invoice of approx.1000€ available! -New battery in January 2019 For the sake of completeness, all this was said two small defects. -Backlight left slightly moist (functions perfectly) -It was sometimes attached a mobile phone holder or other on the dashboard therefore unfortunately 3 small screw holes are in it. All in all, here is a well-kept, unbasted SRT with few kilometers and very good history, which you can drive immediately without considering . I have the W At 100 km/h there is a strong jerking in the steering wheel, seller suspects a problem with the wheels, which are not properly balanced, I also once had. The turn signal flashes with double frequency, but all turn signals go. Return lights are defective. All defects would be fixed by the seller. Rost is obviously not recognizable. The car was always driven in Germany, the first owner had the car from 2006 to 01.2018 The second from 01.2019 to 04.2019 (sold because of unexpected offspring), the third from then until now, sales due to family circumstances. The sales are documented, the price has been the same with everyone up to now, this indicates that the story is true. But it is also possible that the buyers have noticed something that I have not seen and are happy to get rid of the bug without loss. I would have the car turned upside down again by a workshop before I buy it. e. I have read that the Charger can get problems at 100,000 km with the front axle, what it has to do with it, especially financially. A large inspection must also be done now at 100,000 km, which may be deducted from the purchase price. If the case is, the box is technically in order, it is realistic to say, I buy the car as a Sunday car (garage for it available), register it on season, drive with it for fun and if I lose the pleasure of ka Is the market too small for this, the demand is not present? One finds in the network Charger, which have 30-50,000 km more on the clock, also SRT 8, and cost 23,000 euros more. Is this the normal range or is there something lazy? I am happy about all the hints especially to the car, but also quite general nature regarding experiences and resale value of Amis, especially with the V8 engines. Thank you! Greetings Jon

Moin, I’m new here at the US Cars. Currently I’m driving a BMW X5 (e53). However, I plan to buy a pickup for the future. In the short choice are the 1500 RAM Rebel or the 2500 Power Wagon (both MJ 2019 and with gas conversion). Does anyone have experience with the cars and what about the spare parts supply and workshops? I come from North Frisia – who has experience here? Greeting from the North Sea