Category: US Cars Forum

Hello all, I bought a brand new AEC import RAM Classic 1500 LARMIE from an AEC dealer in BW in November 2020. The seller strongly advised me to have an underbody protection applied and also to have a cavity sealing carried out in your company. I got convinced and ordered and paid for this additional performance. Now I was in November 2023 for the first time with the RAM at the TÜV. Without defects, but with the advice, the Leiterrah The AEC dealer in BB (Baden Württemberg) should not have a rust problem after only three years??? What is your opinion or your experience with this topic???? Thank you, G. Is it possible to get rid of the rust and seal the front right side, where the VIN was cut into the frame in Rotterdam. And he also moored the Prins-Underfloor tank, because already rusted!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the AEC dealer in BB (Baden Württemberg) the underbody protection and the cavity sealing, how ordered and paid would actually have applied or injected, should there be no rust problem after only three years??? What is your opinion or your experience with this topic??? Mark’s sore

Hello to the US-Car-Forum 🙂 I have a question. So if you buy, for example, a US-Car via ebay.com, how much shipping costs and other possibly additional costs you would have to expect? Maybe someone has already gained experience, or his US-Car gets over this way 😉 Thank you for all the answers in advance*** mfg to all Alonzo M.C.

So dear US Car community! I’m driving an e38. Since the topic of custom cars has clearly gained in importance in recent years, the TÜV unfortunately makes me interested in the US Cars: 78 Eldo Biarritz, Buick Riviera 3.8 SC, Thunderbird 4th Gen, Mark VIII 96-98 a dash through the bill due to lack of part reviews. Material reports are no longer available. I had a 2 hour conversation here in Augsburg. And a Camaro or Fire bird or Mustang, Corvette just doesn’t really like me. My LT1 is gone again. AND I don’t want to have a car anymore from the STANGE FAHREN! For my e38 there’s everything for small money: horny chrome rims, deeper laying, winch suspensions, plasmatachos etc. and with the future performance increase of my 6ender I have to have the gearbox reinforced, but I also have to do that with all US cars except TH 350 or 400, only unfortunately then the stupid import duty and VAT come on it. which makes the whole customizing almost priceless. But will continue to follow the forum

Hello together, Again a transport thread, but not the usual content. In the lead: I have already imported 4 cars from USA. Like all this runs with papers Zoöl approval etc.pp, that’s why it should not be possible here. I brought my cars most with nem Duenstreister per container. Now I look around again and again because I would like to buy n project, possibly make n pickup for small money to the most necessary and drive. Would definitely be older than 30 years. Just search I’m looking for a low budget car to Germany (or the Netherlands) as cheaply as possible? The cars I’m looking at are good but not perfect from tin and varnish. So no high gloss on which you see a small scratch as a disaster. I’m looking for a car for 3000 dollars, then transport costs me almost as much again. That has to be cheaper. Roll on roll off? Does someone have practical experience with it and could give me a tip/contact? I’m currently working on a puckup from Idaho. So then west coast. I’m looking forward to your answers!

I bought a rare car. Cadillac CTS-V from 2012. I want to buy winter rims and mature, but there is no one. I talked to TUV and it doesn’t help. says the TUV ingeniur only “find a share report with your exact car”. But there is no one. What can I do? When it’s not obvious, my German is not yet good. (I also posted this in the english forum https://www.motor-talk.de/…and-how-to-move-forward-t6737155.html) I am a n ingeniur, and would like to find something that goes for individual acceptance, but I don’t have so much time. Do you know anyone to talk to? Thank you

I’ve been swarming about Trans Am since my time as a little boy, but only in optics 1979-1981. Real TA 6.6 from 1979 is now quite expensive – a good guy is supposed to cost 40 grand. I was told. Now I was offered a “clone” for 25 in the bandit look (black/gold). Has a 5.7 liter with allegedly 250-300 hp. T-tops. The sound is ultra-cool condition absolutely TOP – inside as well as outside. Car is in D, H-approval however, it has no. Listens to a collector whom I ken ne, and who keeps his cars TOP in fire. Questions: What price is realistic? Could there be problems with the H approval?

Good evening together, a new project was added to me. A woody. It is built in 39 and I will completely restore it. It is complete except for interior fittings, discs, cardan shaft and rear axle, with an axle of the Jaguar XJ6, which I find very globic. Motor is a Stroker, whereby the 350cui with the parts of the 400cui was built. Was a screwdriver in the Nuremberg area, believe Zexx, or something like that? Can you give me some tips on the rear axle? If yes, the question about the differential is unnecessary. I am an absolute newcomer to Chevy and this year of construction. Maybe someone from the area around Friedrichshafen will also read along and come over for a coffee? Yes, there is also a workshop beer. Will the days still upload pictures. Would I be happy to read from you. Greetings Tobias

I just bought a SRX (Facelift version from 2009) with the 3.6 liter engine from first hand with less than 30 TKM. Can anyone tell me about their experiences? Any things I have to pay special attention to? Are the engines vulnerable or should I have something preventively replaced or kept waiting? Thanks for a short feedback!

Hello! I am looking for an individual car, am not here otherwise, use the account of my father. I have the chance to get a very well-preserved Ford Mustang of 69 with 300cui (are nevertheless 4.8l so ne ?) Color Silver Of 69` Original EVERYTHING real 78.000km, the type is en friend of my father, of therefore vetrauenswert 98` was completely restored, and the engine general overhauled. Well: I am novice. Is that too high? I just don’t want to “j” eder also has it” GOLF or Opel XYZ drive. How much does it cost in insurance, tax and fuel ? Money is not sooo the problem… THANK YOU

Hey! don’t really find a rubric here, where I could ask for my Ford.. therefore just the attempt here: I drive a 77 Ford LTD Landau, 5.2 L V8, 325 HP… Just 8 days ago bought. and now the small “American” problems already started Are there (suffering-)-shafts comrades, who also drive a car of the LTD Riege? A manual was unfortunately not included in the purchase price, so it is already difficult to look up the small things for a short time. Prob lem No. 1: Starting process very difficult, after about 20 seconds starter operation it starts on the 2nd or 3rd attempt (of course NOT been like this during the test drive). Therefore the simple question: does the part nen Choke somewhere? So far for the first time, you would do me a huge favor if I could get an email address, HP or something like that. many thanks and gruss 1200mexblack