Category: Volkswagen Forum

Hello all, I bought a smart just under half a year ago. Now the “switch motor/control motor” is broken from the right headlight. My dealer initially claimed that this was a cover, so no warranty case. But now he has agreed to repair the part. He wants to install a used spare part, is that so usual? After all the discussions it wouldn’t surprise me if I had some scrap. I hope someone can help me here, thank you already!

I am interested in buying a Smart fortwo Diesel. Since I like to drive in idle mode, when it goes down the mountain, or to a traffic light and I have never driven automatic or semi-automatic, I wonder if and how this could be done with the Smart. Does this work? So when driving in idle mode and is good? What are the settings at the switch lever? The N stands for normal, then R as backward and that was, right? So don’t?! Please answer me, thank you. Still 1.2 things: I wanted to buy one for max. 3000€. Drive 3x the week 30km to work a way, make with university and work about 15000km per year, so I have to come to about 3 years. What do you say? Skin that?

Hello, I’m not so long a smart owner, since March I drive a 4.5 year old fortwo (each at 35,000km) and love it very much… I’ve now let myself be persuaded to a review (free smart workshop), also because it’s oil change, winter tires have to be on it and at all, I know so far only that he drives well and was groomed by the previous owner (now with the maintenance indicator at -77 days). The friendly fitter told me now that the spark plugs should be changed every year with the smart (costs 83€ extra), that he would definitely recommend to me. As an old Ossi woman this is quite suspicious – new spark plugs without reason? How are your experiences? Does this have to be or is the money tailoring?

After “actually” error-free connection incl. ISO adapter (sponge plus and duration plus are switched correctly) the JVC simply cannot be switched on. It has power, CD can be driven out and in and when I press the disp button it shows the time elapsed since the installation. What can this be? Edit: Now it works, but how: 1. On the ISO adapter red and yellow changed 2. from the radio yellow and red both on and off red Lets always turn on and off. What else do I have to do to get this on and off by ignition?

Hello ! At the Smart from the neighbour the starter no longer moves ? Yesterday he wanted to drive into a parking gap , whereby the transmission did not switch into the idle and the engine was strangled like . An hour later at the next start attempt the starter did not make a Mux anymore . The instrument lights are all normal . Only the starter does nothing more ???? Have today the starter developed and tested – I.O. ! fuses for engine are all ok ! Has someone ever had such a thing ?? mfg Jürgen

Hello to all smarties who of you has chipped his little ones. I mean the chip tuning I have a Smart Type 451 with 64 kw and would like to have it chipped. Unfortunately or also to luck is the selection so huge. that I unfortunately lose the overview I would like to have a few good tuners of you who are also to recommend are I also like to drive a few kilomenters. A Fa. in Weilheim Teck it offers only I don’t know if they are also good. So please if someone has made one or other experience no matter whether positive or negative with it. Thank you Turbo451

I wonder if there is any trick, for example if you roll to a traffic light to activate the idle, do not say to have any gear in it. Normally, the smart always switches down automatically and reduces the speed by the correspondingly inserted gear. Thus, although you only have to roll, you have to give gas, in order not to stop completely. In my opinion, this increases the fuel consumption and the wear of the clutch / gear. If I put the N gear in front of a red traffic light this would work in principle. But if only the traffic light unexpectedly jumps to green and I have to give gas, I do not know if it would be good to put the “gang” back in, because the car does not know which gear it should take and possibly switches into the first gear and then I would slow down quite badly. Does one of you also know this “problem”? Smart 451 cdi 2009

Hello Today I picked up my 2 year old used Smart (10.000km). Everything is perfect, but I still have a few questions… 1. Is there information about battery voltage, engine (cool water) temperature, oil temperature somewhere? 2. Sometimes the automatic has switched down too early. That does it exactly at speeds in urban traffic of about 50-60kmh. What do you do then? The engine starts to roar because it runs underboard. I don’t want to manually switch down, because the automatic should be used. 3. The tank lock is not locked when the vehicle is closed. Ergo can throw something in. What do you do against it? No matter? The engine makes some sounds unknown to me after longer driving. I don’t know if that’s right. Sounds like a high frequency fast nailing of a diesel engine. But is not always… I have to observe. Smart greeting Thomas

Hello and afterwards happy Christmas to everyone. Had the last days some time to summarize my experiences with the current Smart Diesel (01/2008) and just over 50,000 driven km. Unfortunately, it is now really up to my neck. Maybe the pdf helps one or the other in their own troubleshooting. Of course my other two smarts were not always error-free, but what I have experienced in the last months with the current CDI 451 now, my tolerance limit blows by far 🙁 Short to me: Ride now for over 9 years and about 320,000km Smart 42, this is my third – had a Limited One year 1998 – CDI Built 11/2002 – CDI Built 01/2008 Ride NUR long distance on the BAB with speeds between 100-110 km/h, daily approx. 150km greetings

Hello, I bought new brake discs for my smart here:www.at-rs.de/beitrag/items/brake disks_rost_corrosion.html I have bought these with the paint of the brake pots knowingly, in order to be perhaps a little prepared against rust. Today the discs, which are to be installed tomorrow, were delivered. What is very surprising to me is that the discs were completely painted against the picture under the above link. So also the inner surface of the pot and also the friction surfaces. On the friction surfaces it will certainly be braked off after a few times, which is also in order. But what causes me a little stomach pain, that the inner surface of the pots was painted too. Although the paint layer is really very thin there, but whether that is so ok? Are brake pots not always totally blank inside? Would I be happy about a few opinions.