Category: Volkswagen Forum

Hello, currently driving a Smart Facelift (Bj. ’10). The standard radio (not a CD drive, but aux and USB in the glove compartment) is completely advanced. How does a USB stick have to be shaped so that the system can read it? Have tested both NTFS and FAT32. Both times with mp3 files. Each time comes the message that the files are not readable. What do? Thank you for your answers!

Hello dear people, for about a week we have a smart 450 petrol truck for the work path. After initial difficulties, because the previous owner neglected the service and the car ran like on only one cylinder I changed the candles, cables, oil and filter and now it runs again very clean and calm. However, the turbo worries me because the rod after the valve was totally rusted, I removed the exhaust and looked for the problem. The rod can no longer be moved, the cracker has a hair crack, the turbo loader does not run with and the small “shovel” in the cracker is broken, see photo. In addition, I noticed that the tiptronic switching operations are unfortunately anything but gentle, probes are more beaten in. Can someone help what I can do and if I can drive with the broken shovel in the cracker so?

Hello. Can someone give me a tip what I could look at ? The smart just stays cold in the interior. I have read that it could be air in the system that you could let out at the sensor for cool water . But I did not find it . Or you should change the inlet valve . Also I did not find it on the car . Here are some photos of the engine . Under the car behind the gearbox actuator or what that means could possibly be the inlet valve of the water pipe . Maybe someone can give me a few tips . In the manual it is made neither of the thermost inside nor of the coolant sensor . Maybe it lies on those parts below the glove compartment .

Hello, the following problem: the smart (bj 2003) no longer reacts to my normal key as well as to my replacement key at all. Also no flashing up. Since the car is switched off in reverse and the immobilizer prevents me from setting it in neutral, I can not pull it to the next workshop. Did the professionals say “let the keys learn again”. Someone came, the keys have learned again and said that probably the radio receiver in the car (the one under the hand brake) is defective. If I would switch it off, the keys would work. Send the keys, he also tested with another device. If I temporarily installed the radio receiver (which definitely works) in the car from another smart, still doesn’t work. Now, at the moment, we have the theory that a working radio receiver in the car has to be so that you can learn the keys. Is that correct? Or would someone have another idea of what it might be like or how to get the car in Neutral? Many thanks for your help and a nice rest week Jürgen

Hello everybody, I bought myself a small Smart as a second car. However, the TÜV has found a few small defects, actually nothing dramatic. However, a lack of it, as already described in the title, is „dust cuff – front left ineffective. I honestly have no idea what I have to change here now, possibly the carrying joint of the track rod head? On the Internet I find somehow no cuff for the track rod head. Or is here spoken of the cuff of the track rod? If yes, then why is track rod head in the report? Would really be very grateful if someone could help me further here. Thanks in advance. MfG Daniel

My SmartDiesel 450 starts in the first seconds of idle with only 500 revolutions and runs restless. After a few seconds one hears a switching noise, and the speed goes to normal. The problem occurs regardless of the temperature. Interestingly, the problem can be solved almost always when I activate the booster function of the charger. This increases the battery voltage to 15–17 volts, and the motor starts up 9 of 10 times normal without the switching noise. It feels as if the engine is slowed down by the starter, air compressor or the alternator – then the additional load dissolves and the engine runs lighter. The higher voltage seems to significantly improve the start and is repeated effectively. If it does not immediately go to idle speed, it does so after 1–2 seconds, instead of otherwise after 4 seconds of pulse. I exclude classic faults like cooling candles, because the problem occurs independently of the temperature. The engine has power => is healthy: It needs 1–2 seconds longer from 0–100 km/h than indicated and reaches GPS-measured about 134–135 km/h.

Hello together, yesterday my daughter thundered against the edge with our Smart. Shortly afterwards the tire was flat. The vehicle was left standing. In the afternoon I drove there with a spare wheel, changed the wheel and drove the smart home. At home I noticed that the wheel is not “normal”. When comparing with the left side, I then came to the conclusion that the axle must be bent. Question: is there an explosion drawing or similar, where I can see the parts of the rear axle, so that I can order accordingly? Or does someone already have this behind them and can call me the part numbers? My Smart: 451, Built 2011, 71PS Thank you in advance for your answers.

Maybe someone has a solution. I don’t want to put on my seat belt anymore, because it “cuts” me in the neck side. Unfortunately, you can’t adjust the belt and take the belt out of the rail, does not solve the problem. The belt is constantly rubbing along the neck. Not very pleasant, as you can imagine. Does someone have a solution ready? I think it’s the same for one or the other. In conclusion, it can’t be due to my size. I’m 1,80…What are just small people doing in the smart. That’s where the belt has to be almost at the head!?!!?

Hello, I recently drove a Smart 451 Fortwo mhd Coupe 1.0 with the HSN:1313/AHN, year of construction : 07.2008 and km-stand: 120000km Unfortunately I have been busy with the problems of the mhd after the purchase(error!)… By reading in the forum I now know that the belt can break very quickly and therefore a motor damage can occur (if you don’t turn off the car directly etc.), which I want to avoid as well as it is only possible! The Smart had 2 previous owners and is maintained up to 80000km check booklet. Unfortunately, I noticed in the inspection of the magazine that not a single time the wedge belt was replaced. The last previous owner did not do this either. I therefore want to go directly to a Smart specialist and sign the thing, now to my question: Should he only change the wedge belt (review) or there are still other things he should do? I also read something with an update. What I have done is a smart center error to contact you then, there was no problem call for you.

Hello, I had a driving accident (self-inflicted) almost 2 weeks ago or drove up a bus with a final speed of approx. 30 km/h. Now my car is no longer ready to drive. (see photos) Now I had written to a workshop, transmitted the respective pictures and asked for an approximate price range. These told me that I had to reckon with about 300-400 € for the working time and another 300-500 € for the entire front. I would have to purchase the front myself from a scrap dealer/car user, (unmounted?! – I would have thought now) and pick up. My question would now be whether this assessment is realistic at all and if I didn’t end up at 1,500 €+. Does someone have experience and can give me his personal assessment? Does that make any sense at all with such a car? Note: There are no liquids out, the doors are not bent and the right headlight is still completely in order. -> Smart-FourFour, almost 20 years old and <150,000 km -> On-market places are traded under 500-2,000 km and the equipment segment.