Category: Volkswagen Forum

Hello, the smart of my better half no longer jumps on and shows the famous 3 bars in the display. I have already changed the clutch actuator, the switch actuator and the motor control unit including tacho, ignition lock, relay box for working parts searched for. I checked the cable from the actuator to the control unit for passage. Everything failed! Still 3 bars and does not start. Does anyone have an idea what it might still be about? I had already dragged the smart into sc, because I thought the actuator had to be learned. However, they could not establish a connection and diagnosed a defective control unit. Since this was also changed I think the diagnosis was wrong. Does anyone have an idea? Thanks now! Mfg rob Mfg

Hello, I hope someone can help me. The following problem: After the pan of the pull-out lever was rusted through and the actuator, or the pin, while the gearbox was in reverse, the pen went completely out. Also the small motor on the actuator was broken. I installed a new pull-out lever, and replaced the actuator with a used one. When the ignition is switched on, the actuator runs out easily, but does not manage to operate the clutch. Clutch is not blocked, however, because I can press it manually, of course with effort. On the display 3 bars appear. Why does the actuator not manage to operate the clutch? When I connect the removed actuator, it runs out perfectly. In the vice you can then press the pen again. Does anyone have a tip? Greeting, Michael

Hello together, the smart of my girlfriend broke out on a motorway driveway in the back without any obvious reason on Saturday. We turned and stood in the back traffic (departure). Luckily the downhills reacted and nothing happened. We stopped and could not see anything, so we drove on. Later it happened again, but I was lucky to catch the little one again. It was both wet times and both a left-curve. Both was at about 40-50km/h. Data about the smart: Cabrio EZ 11/2000 0.6 54 HP 97 tkm tires are behind Contis from 2011, no cracks, 5-6mm profile. I hope someone can tell me what could be broken, because that can’t just happen. Thanks already greeting Schlütii

Hello, I’ve already written that my roadster has got a load pressure increase via software. However, the car now packs a bit around. If I allow the Wastegate then the car is very strong when I push through. (I know that the pressure is too high and therefore the mother of the Wastegate has to be turned out a little bit). If I turn the mother out so about 0.7cm then the smart works very well and accelerates neatly; it seems to be ok. However, if I drive longer than 5min under full load then the Wastegate dissolves completely and the car goes into the emergency run. That means the Wastegate is no longer connected to the long “screw” (which is connected to the underpressure box) . From this it can be concluded that the mother dissolves itself while driving. What can I do against it? I can hardly stick the mother o.ä? Does it bring something the 13-year-old mother to replace? mfg

Consultation: Smart Buy? Seat Ibiza verkaufen? 29.08.2017 16:09 I2oman 的 Comments (0) Hello Community, I need your help with my purchase or sale decision. I’ve already informed myself in many forums, but I’m not really smart about it. I’m currently driving a Seat Ibiza with 105 ps (BJ2009) 4 cylinders, suction cup. I think about selling this and buying a Smart ForTwo instead. My driving profile looks like this: On weekdays: 12 km (easy distance ) to work = 5days*12km*2driving= 120km In addition, on 2 days I’ll drive to university: 60km*2driving*2 days= 240km With the further trips within the week I’ll get to about 430km (m more rural and mainly driving a highway). My thinking is to buy a smart one, because of the economical fuel values and the low cost of maintenance (securing and tax) I’ll use my Ibiza (without gas feet) 7.6 liters/100km (m more than I’d over 650 times the thumb would have expected how much savings in my journey?

Hello, I need a new starter battery for my 451 MHD right away! The Varta AGM with 60AH/680A is now available. In the direct selection I would have either Bannerhttp://battery24.de/…ie-agm-12v-60ah-banner-running-bull-56001.html or Vartahttp://battery24.de/…start-stop-plus-d52-autobattery-12v-60ah.html Do you have any other suggestions or recommendations? I’m also superior to installing a “normal” battery that can be almost half-priced. (I can do without the start/stop function) However, an AGM has a slightly higher charging voltage. The vehicle side charge controller will probably not recognize that there is another battery in it, or about? And how does it look like with the leak of normal batteries? Acid injuries in a crash are certainly not desirable. Thanks for your help.

Hello Together, My Ball no longer wants to :‘-( Vehicle data: SMART CITY-COUPE 0.8 CDI Key number: 8773 302 Built: 07/2002; approx. 160,000 km When ignition is switched on, you hear a surging noise (fuel pump (?)) for a few seconds, while switching to N you hear the gearbox. When starting the starter spins, then the engine rumbles a few times unround before it goes out again. It sounds like the last kick is missing so that the engine runs round. This can be done until the battery becomes weak. 1. fuses are checked; all are OK 2. gears are heard when switching on N, R and 1 3. New battery installed 4. start pilot/start assistance spray: Just as described above. Engine jerks a few times, but does not pull through 5. relay box climate (under driver’s seat) reinstalled 6. high pressure pump approx. 1 year old; pressure according to Bosch reader 350 bar 7. error indication lt. reads: charging air cooler, gear selector not gear lever position?

Hello, I saw yesterday that my Smart Bj 2000 54hp has a new revised engine before 35tkm and before about 6tkm a new partial load valve in the range of the turbocharger and lufbox supply from the turbocharger oil moisture. Now I am unsure ahead of it can lie. I tried to wipe it away once and did a test drive, however, so far nothing is visible. Which components could be affected by this, which in the area may be leaking un oil, so that I can watch there more strongly? The yellow on the pictures is from the lamp that I used to illuminate. Many greetings Mr Nesquik

Hello guys, I’m proud owner of a Smart 451 built in 2009 and I never have a little problem that I need a little help with. On the last TÜV visit a lot on the rear axle didn’t bring any braking effect, hand brake was ok. After I aired the rear brake line everything was ok again but only for a few days, after that the problem was there again. Also the replacement of the rear brakes did not bring any success. What could it be that I only enter the rear brake line air? I’m already looking forward to a few suggestions for troubleshooting, Thanks already in advance

Hello, dear Roadster friends, Some time ago I announced elsewhere in the forum that I would construct and install a floor pan for the open engine compartment of the Roadster. Similar to what is common in the automotive industry toootaaal nowadays. Even at Daimler. Purpose: dirt protection, rust protection, power line, fuel saving etc.pp. Maybe another enthusiast has already started such a project? Then please let me know, thank you! In my insignificant knowledge, the Mercedes-Obrists have pushed our Nicolas Hayek out of the Fima, with the typical sub-layer argument, the car is finished – NOW is sold! The Brave would never have agreed to let go of a car that is unfinished in important respects! Not even for later retrofitting they have tried…. :/ The engineers had in fact everything in planning and preparation, as one sees when looking at the car bodies.