Category: Smart 1 & 2 Forum

Hello I have a question here….. I was on Thursday to change oil and today I had to find out that I hardly have any left The lid of the oil filler plug was not screwed properly on it and thus the oil spread nicely in the engine room and on my driveway …..but at the short check, i.e. lid again properly on it, see if there is still something going on somewhere, I had to find out that I apparently have oil in the cooling system and that was not before. I can’t imagine the “suddenly” my cylinder head gasket is giving up the mind, but how can it still get in there? Can something come in somehow through the senseless distribution of the oil, or the crankcase ventilation or about…I don’t know. Would I be happy about a good tip LG Die Potato

Hello people, I would like to know whether the alternator/starter(-generater) is the same for all Smart 451 models. So whether the holes and plugs are in the same place. Whether gasoline or diesel. Background of the question is this: A Smart 451 Bj 2009 ,MHD ,61 Ps probably had problems with the LiMa/starter. Disse was replaced by a normal LiMa (no starter generator). So start/stop is out of function and is not desired. Now the alternator is no longer loading the battery and the car remains lying. The usual cross strokes in the Tacho etc. I found some Lima from 60-70€ new over Ebay. Apart from the voltage / current strength I wonder if all the builders are? Then I would order any, corresponding to the electrical power, order and install it. Wave of the LiMa is not fixed. The car had started to squeat again. On suspicion was replaced by a workshop belt and belt spanner. Quiets still. Workshop should start the light engine but start some more while the LiMa has to start.

Hello, the smart of my better half no longer jumps on and shows the famous 3 bars in the display. I have already changed the clutch actuator, the switch actuator and the motor control unit including tacho, ignition lock, relay box for working parts searched for. I checked the cable from the actuator to the control unit for passage. Everything failed! Still 3 bars and does not start. Does anyone have an idea what it might still be about? I had already dragged the smart into sc, because I thought the actuator had to be learned. However, they could not establish a connection and diagnosed a defective control unit. Since this was also changed I think the diagnosis was wrong. Does anyone have an idea? Thanks now! Mfg rob Mfg

Hello, I hope someone can help me. The following problem: After the pan of the pull-out lever was rusted through and the actuator, or the pin, while the gearbox was in reverse, the pen went completely out. Also the small motor on the actuator was broken. I installed a new pull-out lever, and replaced the actuator with a used one. When the ignition is switched on, the actuator runs out easily, but does not manage to operate the clutch. Clutch is not blocked, however, because I can press it manually, of course with effort. On the display 3 bars appear. Why does the actuator not manage to operate the clutch? When I connect the removed actuator, it runs out perfectly. In the vice you can then press the pen again. Does anyone have a tip? Greeting, Michael

Hello together, the smart of my girlfriend broke out on a motorway driveway in the back without any obvious reason on Saturday. We turned and stood in the back traffic (departure). Luckily the downhills reacted and nothing happened. We stopped and could not see anything, so we drove on. Later it happened again, but I was lucky to catch the little one again. It was both wet times and both a left-curve. Both was at about 40-50km/h. Data about the smart: Cabrio EZ 11/2000 0.6 54 HP 97 tkm tires are behind Contis from 2011, no cracks, 5-6mm profile. I hope someone can tell me what could be broken, because that can’t just happen. Thanks already greeting Schlütii

Hello, I’ve already written that my roadster has got a load pressure increase via software. However, the car now packs a bit around. If I allow the Wastegate then the car is very strong when I push through. (I know that the pressure is too high and therefore the mother of the Wastegate has to be turned out a little bit). If I turn the mother out so about 0.7cm then the smart works very well and accelerates neatly; it seems to be ok. However, if I drive longer than 5min under full load then the Wastegate dissolves completely and the car goes into the emergency run. That means the Wastegate is no longer connected to the long “screw” (which is connected to the underpressure box) . From this it can be concluded that the mother dissolves itself while driving. What can I do against it? I can hardly stick the mother o.ä? Does it bring something the 13-year-old mother to replace? mfg

Consultation: Smart Buy? Seat Ibiza verkaufen? 29.08.2017 16:09 I2oman 的 Comments (0) Hello Community, I need your help with my purchase or sale decision. I’ve already informed myself in many forums, but I’m not really smart about it. I’m currently driving a Seat Ibiza with 105 ps (BJ2009) 4 cylinders, suction cup. I think about selling this and buying a Smart ForTwo instead. My driving profile looks like this: On weekdays: 12 km (easy distance ) to work = 5days*12km*2driving= 120km In addition, on 2 days I’ll drive to university: 60km*2driving*2 days= 240km With the further trips within the week I’ll get to about 430km (m more rural and mainly driving a highway). My thinking is to buy a smart one, because of the economical fuel values and the low cost of maintenance (securing and tax) I’ll use my Ibiza (without gas feet) 7.6 liters/100km (m more than I’d over 650 times the thumb would have expected how much savings in my journey?

Hello, I need a new starter battery for my 451 MHD right away! The Varta AGM with 60AH/680A is now available. In the direct selection I would have either Bannerhttp://battery24.de/…ie-agm-12v-60ah-banner-running-bull-56001.html or Vartahttp://battery24.de/…start-stop-plus-d52-autobattery-12v-60ah.html Do you have any other suggestions or recommendations? I’m also superior to installing a “normal” battery that can be almost half-priced. (I can do without the start/stop function) However, an AGM has a slightly higher charging voltage. The vehicle side charge controller will probably not recognize that there is another battery in it, or about? And how does it look like with the leak of normal batteries? Acid injuries in a crash are certainly not desirable. Thanks for your help.

Hello Together, My Ball no longer wants to :‘-( Vehicle data: SMART CITY-COUPE 0.8 CDI Key number: 8773 302 Built: 07/2002; approx. 160,000 km When ignition is switched on, you hear a surging noise (fuel pump (?)) for a few seconds, while switching to N you hear the gearbox. When starting the starter spins, then the engine rumbles a few times unround before it goes out again. It sounds like the last kick is missing so that the engine runs round. This can be done until the battery becomes weak. 1. fuses are checked; all are OK 2. gears are heard when switching on N, R and 1 3. New battery installed 4. start pilot/start assistance spray: Just as described above. Engine jerks a few times, but does not pull through 5. relay box climate (under driver’s seat) reinstalled 6. high pressure pump approx. 1 year old; pressure according to Bosch reader 350 bar 7. error indication lt. reads: charging air cooler, gear selector not gear lever position?

Hello, I saw yesterday that my Smart Bj 2000 54hp has a new revised engine before 35tkm and before about 6tkm a new partial load valve in the range of the turbocharger and lufbox supply from the turbocharger oil moisture. Now I am unsure ahead of it can lie. I tried to wipe it away once and did a test drive, however, so far nothing is visible. Which components could be affected by this, which in the area may be leaking un oil, so that I can watch there more strongly? The yellow on the pictures is from the lamp that I used to illuminate. Many greetings Mr Nesquik