Category: Verkehr & Sicherheit Forum

For some time now fashion: daytime running lights for retrofitting! Most of all the cheap China version of ATU for 30€ the pair. From Papis Passat to Opas Vectra to Sonnemanns 316, everyone has to have them, even if it looks so bad. There holes in front shooters are milled with the jigsaw, or, if available, every opening – even if the two lights then almost collide in the middle of the vehicle – bleak. Meanwhile one can observe on German roads how far it is with the quality of these cheap parts is ordered: every second one drives either one-eyed, blind-diluted, or there are 5-10 LEDs on each side failed. One thing is certain: I don’t buy such a scrap if I have to invest in new luminaires for every TÜV appointment!

You see them again and again, because it looks like so much c001: * Fog headlights in combination with standing light or even driving light (natively especially when a fog bench has not been seen between Sicily and Grnland the last 3 weeks) * driving around with standing light (especially 5 BMWs, are sooo horny the rings…) * Fog end light continuous operation When you get into a control, the boys usually talk (if they don’t turn up for the x-th time the same guard master) quite successful with “excuse me I slipped at the switch/driving otherwise one with other light switch/etc.” quite cleverly out, even if they drive an otherwise best in the overall picture matching megaproller (e.g. only by tons of spatula mass held together BMW 3 Series convertible in dark grey or black, manta-compatiblely lowered, disks glued off, giant spoiler). And it will not be less, but more and more, especially with regard to the standlight driving. There are also more and more “opis with hat”. Why don’t you finally tackle the problem from the technical side, i.e. with new cars with a corresponding switching logic, which at least makes the generally inadmissible combinations (standlight + nebula, high-light + nebula, driving with standlight etc.) simply no longer possible? Since with cars from current production usually nothing is switched directly anyway anyway, but the switch positions first over a however kind of Lich With the front fog lamp, for example, a speed limit (in most of the current cars is included anyway in the form of the cruise control software already integrated in the control units, even if the cruise control is not installed) would be conceivable, with the stand light an automatic switching to dipped-beam as soon as the engine was started, but at the latest As soon as the vehicle moves. High-light + nebula is already prevented with some models by an exclusion logic (when the nebula is switched on automatically down to dipped-light or switches on the nebula only when you take out the main-light). Just as an excitation.

Hello. Today I measured the profile depths of my tyres for a very long time. In front of both sides 3mm. In the back on both sides 4mm. No question – before winter there are new tyres on it – there is no discussion at all. But on which axle do I make the wheels with the better profile until then? The Werkstadt says: The better ones forward. They need the better grip when braking. The tyre dealer disagrees. He says: The better ones on the rear axle. That’s why Grip is very important so that the rear of my car doesn’t overtake me. Both arguments are conclusive. But who of them is right? I tend to do the better on the front axle – but let me be taught a better one. Thank you already in advance.

In the evening, let’s assume, on the highway, traffic jams have formed on all tracks and a vehicle wants to drive from the acceleration lane to the highway. When the vehicle drives to the end of the acceleration lane and notices the sloping rear of the driver has a problem with it, deliberately shrinks the gap to the front man and touches the vehicle approaching the highway, which driver would have a problem later on? The vehicle what drives on the highway and the Vorfa Is this the kind of situation I’ve experienced before, especially at construction sites, but it hasn’t happened yet. So I’m only interested in this case. Greetings Ercan

. Hello! According to XY, Audis are not yet an electr. immobilizer/alarm system have particularly popular escape vehicles because they are fast. This damn rabble A built-in alarm anl. or a good steering wheel claw would be a deterrence. Well, still better than being attacked at home because of the car keys. (Home Jacking) What do you do for your own protection when you are on the road? (especially at night, alone with an accident vehicle,…) What is the Increase of crime? So I got the Auto Lock function for free, because I occasionally transport a bag, briefcase etc. on the back seat/passenger side. If someone holds a gun to the window window window you are powerless anyway. Your own life/health should be worth more than your beloved car. Of course it is a difficult decision within a few seconds… because who gets out is also In case of an accident, you have to provide first help, but all alone somewhere on a lonely road? For the first time I would stop about 100 meters further behind and then wait 2-3 minutes and watch the rearview mirrors closely. Of course with running engine and closed ZV. I would definitely call the police and rescue! When getting out, always take all mobile phones and vehicle keys with you. I give that to the vehicle something is wrong. Anyone who stops at a gang of crooks has already lost. Greeting Andi .

Hello Sportsfriends, after 25 days free and of which 267000 km with the current car I stayed last week on the Cologne motorway ring. Here the procedure (times from memory) 17:00 engine goes out 5 km after a workshop visit at 120 kmh on the left lane. Make it still to the emergency stop bay. 17:05 try to get help via the SOS pillar. No answer. 17:15 o’clock 1. Call to the ADAC employee 1, recording the breakdown, announcement of a call in within 15 minutes due to cost acceptance 17:45 2. Call to the ADAC employee 2, re-recording the breakdown, the first recording was no longer to be found, again the announcement that I will be called back, in any case within half an hour someone would be there 18:30 After nothing happens, I get on my way. To the workshop. By bus and train. Around 19:30 am I arrive there. 20:00 am With an employee of the workshop I get on the way to the car. Diagnosis: Distribution runner is cut off, probably a wrong type has been installed. 8:30 pm Are with another distributor finger again on the car. Unfortunately, the finger does not fit either. 8:45 pm Are at a VW workshop, where of course nobody can find any more. 8:50 pm 3. Call to the ADAC. Rerecorded recording of the breakdown. As well the explanation that I am no longer at the car, but about 5 min away. Announcement of the ADAC cooperation 3 that I within 5 minutes due to the cost 9:15 p.m. 4. Calling the ADAC, one is surprised, because of my call, since someone has been on the way to me for 10 minutes, but to the left vehicle, again the statement that I should be picked up at the next exit, then drive to the car, the 4th employee assures me to pass this on and that within the next half hour someone would surely show up with me. 22:00 phone call to a friend in Essen, explain my pro blem and he is on his way 23:00 Uhr Be picked up by my colleague, the ADAC was in the meantime nothing to see. 01:45 Uhr After towing to the workshop and back to Essen I snap out my night light. Conclusion: 1. Well to the one who has friends, 2. Someone who promises me 4 times and doesn’t keep it, is no business partner for me in this life. Good that I’m not in the ADAC Good trip Michael

My question: I would like to add a reasonable torque wrench (to save money). Since I own two cars and therefore have to change 16 wheels a year, I am now looking. I know ATU has the things on offer. But I think they don’t last very long. (Prejudice) Can someone give me a recommendation that makes sense. The tool should not cost a fortune, but should also keep etas. Just the same su 2T should be able to lift the car. Thanks and greeting.

Hello everybody, it actually happened: my speed camera from a few months ago has now led to a travel book. The car is registered for insurance reasons via my ma (public service), and I drive with it. It has made use of its right of refusal of statement and the driver could not be determined. Now it should keep a travel book for 6 months. Objection can still be filed until 22.08. I would now even prefer to take the penalty on me, a Is it worth an objection? Can you still admit the punishment? What are your experiences? Thank you and greeting!

Hey people on 3.6. the asphalt was renewed on a road section of Bundeskraftfahrtstraße and Rollsplitt applied. This happened in the late evening. On 4.6. I drove exactly on this track. no sign of construction site or rollsplit, only limit to speed 60. in more than sufficient distance in front of me (approx. 60m) another vehicle drove and hurled split up so that my windshield (since only 3 weeks old), hood and front apron took damage. the construction company turned. this referred me to the Shidler company… which again no one is aware of fault. “On the 6.6th were then due to the driven splitt and the low temperatures the signposting rollplitt and tempo 40″ added… so we are… not in liability for your damage” (compare the date!!!) how should I proceed now? must I ALWAYS count on splitt if somewhere a piece of asphalt was made? in 8 years a ktiven Fahren has always met everything with a sign so far, and if no splitt was used, then no sign was there? By the way, damage height: 230€ gross

Hey, since I’m still in the probation period, I wanted to know when to drive exactly over red. So if I get hit at 50 and the traffic light switches right before (5 meters) to orange, can I just go through or do I have to pull through an emergency brake? What if I’m 10m before the traffic light and it jumps to orange? Are there some tips, such as if it’s nicer to green, it can switch etc. lg