Category: Werkzeug Forum

Hello Motor-Talk Community, I am still completely new here and yet the first questions are already asking! I am recently proud owner of an old compressor of the brand ALUP from 1970. It stands quite well and also has little rust in the boiler. I have with the compressor many parts of my Volvo to sandblasting because they are unfortunately damn rusty. Of course after that has to paint properly on it so I would also like to paint and also operate other air pressure devices on it (e.g. S My question: Which components on the compressor do I need for all that???? And which brands would you recommend? It is naked, so it has no attachments except a pressure switch from Condor. The data of the compressors: boiler: 750 l Intake power: 1500 l /min max. operating pressure 15 atü Engine power: 11kW The only connection is a short hose estimated 3/4 or 1 inch which was obviously cut off… Thanks already for all the answers!! Good size, eccentric etc.). sweet from Franken PaRabus

Hello forum, mainly for changing summer/winter bikes I am looking for a recommended jack. My car: mini car Suzuki Celerio. My ‘workplace’ for changing the wheels: a driveway covered with split without fixed ground. I think that I will put a board or a bleach under the jack. A shunting car lift seems a bit too big and unhandling for this. I think it runs out of a stick or scissors truck lifter. The offer at ebay and Consorts are very large and confusing. Can anyone recommend a model that is good and yet offers some quality? Budget up to about 50€ Thank you for every tip.

Hello guys, I would like to buy a compressor because I want to paint larger parts like bumper bonnet etc.. I would consider myself an advanced hobby painter, as I paint with the can so wheel runs that you can see no difference. However, uch don’t know which compressor is suitable for painting work. I would have thought of the ImploTex 480W, but enough 9l volume to paint a part? Would be grateful for your help

Hi got through me a lift and decided to set up a Zippo stage. I bought it now, picked it up and set it up and then had to find out painfully that it doesn’t drive when pressing the button. Neither up nor down. The engine stays still. But I found out now that if I “force” a contact with the contactors, so there practically push the button, it drives up and down without any problems. Now I don’t want to do anything. it times like a douchebag trying to get up there and in general I don’t care the method anyway and therefore I hoped to get a little help. What could that be about? Is there any cable not connected properly? Can it lie at the nuts? That with you what is not right? I have no experience with such a thing but would like to tackle it. Thank you very much already

Hello together! I have battery problems again. Batteries don’t seem to like me. This time at the Mazda. Yesterday evening he started, today it just clacked. The multimeter meant so 9.3V on the 12V 70AH Bosch battery. So I got stuck to the AEG charger. Battery could not be recognized. So I activated back and forth and emergency charge. Ne hour later 7.17V on the battery. I have now borrowed the charger from the professional. A Schumacher Speed Charg he. There seems to be something going on now, the 10V have already been cracked. I don’t know yet, of course, that the battery is not in the bucket after all (is actually only so 2 years old), but still, progress. Only in the future I wouldn’t want to be dependent on foreign help anymore, therefore the question, which charger can be recommended, that also with deep-discharged batteries will be finished? With this I could force the device to make fast charge of a “bad” battery n. My device has exactly the one button. Only it doesn’t seem to be Schumacher anymore, at least I don’t find anything. Greetings and thanks Marco

Good day, on the one hand, I would like to buy a shunting truck lifter (for this, of course, bucks, wedges, etc.) and I have found that there is often no rubber overlay with the cheap models. No matter if this is with more expensive models, or if you buy them extra – there are apparently differences that are not clear to me: The rubber overlays are partly provided with pimples, partly they have a narrow slit and partly a wide slit. What are the Untersc Here or which rubber coat is the right one for small cars? And why are they sold without rubber coat at all? Are there any use cases where you don’t need the rubber? At first glance, I don’t find rubber coats on the bucks and they have a rather characteristic Y-shape, as if they should only be under a certain spot at a certain angle. In a YouTube video, however, someone has placed rubber mats between the buck and the body. as is usually thought? Thank you and greetings SchrauberAdjutant

Hello together, I’m new, read a lot with and since some experts here the Beissbarth force machines seem to know well I ask for help and tips. We have a problem here with a Beissbarth force machine MT510, which behaves ‘normal’ after switching on: – self test, displays, acoustic signals. Wheels with ALU rims should be balanced, the key (4), choice of the compensation method, is pressed twice (see pictures). After starting the measurement process the wheel runs some Seconds with the display “- – -” and then after a short time 0 (NULL) is always displayed, and this is on both levels. Also with other wheels is here the Ergenis always 0 !. If with the key (4) a different program is selected, one gets after the measurement a weight indication in the display and the red direction arrows and then the green LEDs indicate the turning of the wheel on the balance point. A weight indication takes place with all other programs. required computer program always displays as a result 0 grams.? What do we do wrong.? Best regards Albert

Hello, someone wanted to throw a single light compressor 8 bar; 24 liters pressure tank, on the garbage after his “repair attempts” failed. I hang the pictures from the part. Somehow I felt sorry for the little one, especially since the owner assured me that the compressor itself worked. The part has been tilted over and fell on the side of the former existing pressure tube, which was allegedly destroyed. Since there was no replacement for it, the owner built the Di This should have worked for some time, but then the hose burst close to the cylinder. So- Total damage and away with it. I took the thing home with me and stated earlier: it really works except for the defective pressure line. The plastic cover is torn in one side – but it doesn’t really itch – can be repaired. Since I don’t really need any additional compressor urgently e, I don’t want to invest a lot of time and money there. So the idea came to me on the way! I have a piece of 8/11 high-temperartur hydraulic hose, 48 Bar/ 160 Gr.C., still in the warehouse. To connect the instead of the “existing pressure hose”. 2 proper hose clamp and the compressor in a condition that one dares to touch it again – finished! What do you mean? Can I do it like this??? Do I have something? Logo, it’s absolutely fuss- clear! But mac hbar? At https://replacement-shop24.de/compressor-EURO-2000-4010040-91015-_1 there are the spare parts. Pipe and both fittings. But, then I am going with freight costs 50.- Euro, for something I do not need necessary! Thanks for every hint says the asphalt hopper

Hi! So far I have changed the tires myself on our two cars and I will continue to do so. Storage is too cumbersome and time-consuming for me. While I am waiting in the workshop, I am already finished myself… However, I wanted to make the whole thing a little easier and get away from the cross-key.Variant 1 Put up compressor in the basement, lead air line in the basement to the outside wall of the house, in order to comfortably connect an air hose at the parking place Advantage: Compressor can also be used for other activities (although I haven’t used it so far), impact wrench has sufficient power.Disadvantage: Expensive matter, elaborate installation of the air duct.Variant 2 Heavy battery impact wrench, e.g. from Makita the DTW1002Z with 18V. Advantage: I have a lot of device from Makita, all compatible, inexpensive.Disadvantage: Sauhemes Gerät. I do have a large Makita battery impact wrench (BTW450), which is however too weak. What do you think?

Moin Gemeinde, I am a lot involved in handicrafts, whether wood, plastic, aluminium or steel, have accumulated tools from here and there over the decades. Now it is more common that I have to deal with VA on my used purchased rotary mesh. My collection of HSS drills often cannot cope with the material. Now I would like to grab into the wallet and get a super good range of drills. My question to you: Which quality should I look for? Thanks already once for the expert answers that will come. Greetings Klaus