Category: Werkzeug Forum

Last year I pulled a used but well-preserved Butler Airdraulic ashore. The part stood around at a forwarding company and was apparently NOT used. After I removed the resins of the piston rods of the pneumatic cylinders with oil, I quickly realized that the air motor rotates much too slowly. Sounds like a sniffing steam lock. At work we have an identical machine, which I use as a ref. Both machines were operated with 10 bar pressure (compressor boiler is sufficiently large, attached compressor has more than enough steam to supply pressure). My suspicion is that there may also be resins in the air engine, which I can only fix by disassembly and possibly replacement of the sealing rings of the pistons in it. Also the connection for the air supply of the engine seems leaking. Here I have to look at the temperature. h attack. Unfortunately, the web gives only an incomplete manual in PDF form and otherwise no specific information about these machines. Can someone help me here from his experience or with other information? Also by PN. Thank you very much! Greeting Thomas

Hello, I’m new here and I have a question about a butler tire moth with air-draulic engine.Although there are already some topics here, but not yet that right thing I’m looking for. Had just added a 1044S2 to me with side pulleys and I knew from the seller that she was only turning around left. I disassembled the machine at home, cleaned up for possible errors but found nothing. Again built together and just like before now my questions about which I come: 1.why does it turn around on the left and right only very slowly when the pistons and this wise plastic ring at the bottom of the machine still look top with the holes? I don’t understand that it turns in your direction with a lot of force and in the other almost not at all 2.the machine was quite strong with I would like to call it graphite oil full. And comes there basically oil in? roofed is only supplied by the oiler. If so which and how much comes in?

Moin Leute, in the current LIDL-Prospekt über diese Starthilfe mit Powerbankfunktion und Licht stumbled:https://www.lidl.de/…/p10022541 Priced yes interesting, but is it also good? As it looks like you can start gasoline up to 3l cylinder capacity and diesel up to 2l cylinder capacity, which is not sooo dolle, but for most cases probably enough. Of course you can not do any minute-long organ sessions with it, but probably the capacity and the cable cross section is not enough. n n come statements like “very useful” to “does nothing” (tlw of the C3 which is identical). As comparison device I got stuck at Topdon with the devices JS or VS 1200, which as the name suggests have a peak start power of 1200A, which is more than twice as much as with the UMAP with (only) 500A. I have no real requirements, would only be helpful/useful/settling for emergencies to have something like that in the car, is also enough a simple start help cable. chen functions are also quite nice and not always you can reach the other car directly with the donor car, e.g. in garages or narrow places and 12V you can also use sometimes in mobile.

The following problem with my stage: The stage otherwise ran without problems. A few days ago, a rubber block on the secondary side (?) was accidentally placed under a support arm. Was only noticed after several attempts at lowering. The block was of course removed and the stage could still be used without any problems. Apparently has taken some damage after all. The question is now what? The lift trucks are both in final position at the bottom. now driving up the stage there is a loud bang, that whole thing so to speak gets a violent mechanical blow and you let go of the switch immediately already out of common sense. My guess: 1. Hubmutter broke (if, which) 2. Re-reciprocating device has addressed (where is the u. how does this work) Both information come from the associated test book by Hofmann “Repair of disturbances”. Outwardly nothing is recognizable. The only thing that is striking is the position (Pos. 34, Fig. 2 in the stage book). Unfortunately, I can’t verify the original position of the sprocket, only have the primary side (motor side) as a reference. There, however, the position looks different! Would I be happy if someone could provide assistance.

Moin, we want to buy a better tyre montage machine in our hobby workshop, because the current maximum 19-hours spans from the outside and also has no auxiliary arms. We have more frequent low-cross section tyres with which we really torture ourselves or sometimes runflats with which we then have to drive again to another workshop. However, there is no daily mass handling planned and we don’t want to spend more than 2,000, – we also don’t want to. Found I needed hardly anything and new in the Price range the 3 following: – Twin Busch TWX 98 – DEMA BL 505 – Trainsway ZH 650 (would be used in the surrounding area cheaper) The Twin Busch has 2 auxiliary arms with their own pneumatics, but the mounting head goes away to the side. The other two look very similar from the equipment of the Twin Busch TWX 36, which however costs at TB 750,- Euro more. Of course, all are produced in China, but at Twin Busch I somehow go from the best spare parts supply g. Does one know these devices here and are there possibly any qualitative differences? Or are the actually all the same and possibly needed spare parts also available everywhere on the free market? Experience with such devices I do not yet have yet. Which kind is better when working? The ones from TH with 2 individual auxiliary arms or the ones with only 1 arm on which but more aids are installed? With the TB you could also plug on the 2nd arm and with adapters the rim runt Squeeze or just lift the tire. Greetings, Lars

Hello, my 2-pillar lift HTC, type HIEV 3, year of construction unknown, no longer rides up on one side. It will most likely be the 2 shell carrier nut. Now my question is: Does someone know how to use it and how to build it? I have already released the stage from the chain drive and laid it down, as well as loosened the arm and pushed it up. Now the upper part (picture 2) can only be raised 2-3cm and bolted down. “Sledge” (don’t know exactly what it’s called) on picture 2 solve with the 2 fittings so that I can replace the half shells support nut ? Mfg Jonah

I am looking for a not all too expensive force machine for hobby screwing. Does anyone of you have the Weber dynamics, does the what good or can you recommend something up to approx. 1000 €? Which could I still look around for? Taugen old Hofmann force machines from the 80/90s still something or is one with the China parts perhaps even better? Thank you!

I was just buying dog food from Aldi. What’s going on in my eye? A new series of battery tools. First of all, it’s all a bit snuffed up. Well, the cordless screwdriver has a damn great resemblance to a battery screwdriver, which I know from another discounter (Norma) and which has also been part of my equipment for years. Is it not just similar but even the same? Do I have to compare this evening (my screwdriver with the Aldi brochure). I didn’t want to go by. He found the way into my shopping cart, along with a large battery and charger. I didn’t notice at first, but suddenly he was on the cash register tape. Where he probably came from? For the price of just about 85€ I just have to try it out. I was really satisfied with other Aldi tools so far, so the decision was not so hard to pack this thing. lawnmowers, air pump and cordless screwdrivers have already smiled at me, but could (yet) resist……. I just read that they were probably already sold at Aldi Nord. Has anyone here possibly been able to gain experience with these devices?

For some time now I have been working in a great generator especially in the garden (without electricity) or even in camping times… the problem: The part is sour loud in the garden already Nervig because you have to put it completely to the end to have some rest. When camping this is even more annoying. So the consideration of what new to buy. A small inverter should become so 2000 to 3000W power, it should be damped and well transportable. It is best also tank foreign suction zb from a Canister. Accordingly, the would often have continuous operation times run through a weekend etc. Now I don’t know what to get myself I didn’t necessarily want to be in the four-digit range. On eBay classifieds etc there are some Honda EU20i for 500 to 700€. On eBay you can find for about 700€ but also 3000W inverters from Pramac or 2200w from Briggs&Stratton. What would you recommend?

Moin moin, before I get quartered…. I’ve been ginging intensely and also used the SuFu but even if I can’t believe it myself or don’t understand it…I don’t find a solution. So I want to buy a lift. I need a foundation and a conscience height…. The height is sufficient with over 5 meters. The length with 25 meters also The foundation depth doesn’t matter either…. So stay the width. I have 360cm from wall to wall. And all except for one need four meters wide. Even those with an H foundation or similar are indicated with four meters wide. Do I get something compensated with other concrete, or a teiler foundation or a basic frame? I don’t want to try experiments and am a family father… *G* I know that Twin Bush and Co make an extra slim one, but I don’t like it from the Höne. Maybe one or the other has an idea here! Normal vehicles are supposed to be lifted… in my case Mercedes S211 Thank you