Category: Werkzeug Forum

Good day, on the one hand, I would like to buy a shunting truck lifter (for this, of course, bucks, wedges, etc.) and I have found that there is often no rubber overlay with the cheap models. No matter if this is with more expensive models, or if you buy them extra – there are apparently differences that are not clear to me: The rubber overlays are partly provided with pimples, partly they have a narrow slit and partly a wide slit. What are the Untersc Here or which rubber coat is the right one for small cars? And why are they sold without rubber coat at all? Are there any use cases where you don’t need the rubber? At first glance, I don’t find rubber coats on the bucks and they have a rather characteristic Y-shape, as if they should only be under a certain spot at a certain angle. In a YouTube video, however, someone has placed rubber mats between the buck and the body. as is usually thought? Thank you and greetings SchrauberAdjutant

Hello together, I’m new, read a lot with and since some experts here the Beissbarth force machines seem to know well I ask for help and tips. We have a problem here with a Beissbarth force machine MT510, which behaves ‘normal’ after switching on: – self test, displays, acoustic signals. Wheels with ALU rims should be balanced, the key (4), choice of the compensation method, is pressed twice (see pictures). After starting the measurement process the wheel runs some Seconds with the display “- – -” and then after a short time 0 (NULL) is always displayed, and this is on both levels. Also with other wheels is here the Ergenis always 0 !. If with the key (4) a different program is selected, one gets after the measurement a weight indication in the display and the red direction arrows and then the green LEDs indicate the turning of the wheel on the balance point. A weight indication takes place with all other programs. required computer program always displays as a result 0 grams.? What do we do wrong.? Best regards Albert

Hello, someone wanted to throw a single light compressor 8 bar; 24 liters pressure tank, on the garbage after his “repair attempts” failed. I hang the pictures from the part. Somehow I felt sorry for the little one, especially since the owner assured me that the compressor itself worked. The part has been tilted over and fell on the side of the former existing pressure tube, which was allegedly destroyed. Since there was no replacement for it, the owner built the Di This should have worked for some time, but then the hose burst close to the cylinder. So- Total damage and away with it. I took the thing home with me and stated earlier: it really works except for the defective pressure line. The plastic cover is torn in one side – but it doesn’t really itch – can be repaired. Since I don’t really need any additional compressor urgently e, I don’t want to invest a lot of time and money there. So the idea came to me on the way! I have a piece of 8/11 high-temperartur hydraulic hose, 48 Bar/ 160 Gr.C., still in the warehouse. To connect the instead of the “existing pressure hose”. 2 proper hose clamp and the compressor in a condition that one dares to touch it again – finished! What do you mean? Can I do it like this??? Do I have something? Logo, it’s absolutely fuss- clear! But mac hbar? At https://replacement-shop24.de/compressor-EURO-2000-4010040-91015-_1 there are the spare parts. Pipe and both fittings. But, then I am going with freight costs 50.- Euro, for something I do not need necessary! Thanks for every hint says the asphalt hopper

Hi! So far I have changed the tires myself on our two cars and I will continue to do so. Storage is too cumbersome and time-consuming for me. While I am waiting in the workshop, I am already finished myself… However, I wanted to make the whole thing a little easier and get away from the cross-key.Variant 1 Put up compressor in the basement, lead air line in the basement to the outside wall of the house, in order to comfortably connect an air hose at the parking place Advantage: Compressor can also be used for other activities (although I haven’t used it so far), impact wrench has sufficient power.Disadvantage: Expensive matter, elaborate installation of the air duct.Variant 2 Heavy battery impact wrench, e.g. from Makita the DTW1002Z with 18V. Advantage: I have a lot of device from Makita, all compatible, inexpensive.Disadvantage: Sauhemes Gerät. I do have a large Makita battery impact wrench (BTW450), which is however too weak. What do you think?

Moin Gemeinde, I am a lot involved in handicrafts, whether wood, plastic, aluminium or steel, have accumulated tools from here and there over the decades. Now it is more common that I have to deal with VA on my used purchased rotary mesh. My collection of HSS drills often cannot cope with the material. Now I would like to grab into the wallet and get a super good range of drills. My question to you: Which quality should I look for? Thanks already once for the expert answers that will come. Greetings Klaus

Hello together ! I am looking for a good inexpensive lifting platform and have discovered the company RP-Tools from Austria. They offer very cheap hydraulic lifting platforms, Montier & balancing machines etc. and I would like to ask if someone has already had experience with the company and its products. Thanks in advance greeting Patrick

Moin, belongs only indirectly to the tools but my Internet has to be improved. have in the house the normal router with Wlan over cable Germany. after that a Devolo kit goes off from the router via cable into the socket unit, in the workshop depends the receiver which then receives over the power line and emits a Wlan signal. so far this works. the kit is about 1.5years old. It often happens that the receiver loses the signal and I no longer have the Internet in the factory stat t has, but everything is ok in the house. that happens now so 2 times a month. also the transition from the workshop-wlan to the house-wlan is always difficult, It takes here forever anyway one is in the other Wlan again. Use all this only via mobile phone. so, if the would have liked still optimized, is the kit just bad or uneigent? how do you do that? mfg.Peter

Good morning together, I bought a compressed air compressor for the first time a week ago and also a impact wrench. The compressed air compressor has a boiler volume of 50L, 1.5 KW and 8 bar working pressure. The impact wrench has a specified working pressure of 6.3 bar and, on level 1, already has a tightening torque of 180 nm. I wanted to use the impact wrench mainly for wheel change. However, a tightening moment of 180 nm is too heavy for me. I mean, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, like, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you know, you

Hello together, I am just about to overtake the rear axle at my oldie (Jaguar). I have the cross joints from the drive shaft and the cone roller bearings from the wheel hub on the paper. To get to all the cross joints, I have to pull the drive shaft off the wheel hub. For this purpose I had bought a universal pull-off kit for wheel hubs a long time ago and had to find that it is not really good. with the original wheel nuts do not fit, I get at either of the two the wheel nuts neatly dressed, because they are too thick and hang on the shaft of the claw, if I then put the sliding hammer to use, I only ruin the threads from the wheel bolts. Matching nuts (M13 or M14 fine thread) do not exist in the local trade and online also only in the big pack. Then in the set is still this pull-off ensemble with the grip arms, by which one middle the G The thread from the slide bar is unfortunately too short, the included extensions do not fit, are either too short or too long. Ne matching thread bar (M16) is unfortunately also not easily available (already 1 wrong order had had). Have tried it with a nut as an intermediate piece, but it tilts sooner or later, at some point the handle can no longer be rotated by hand without extension. What now? I really hate no Is there a recommendation for a suitable and inexpensive tool or the ultimate trick 17? Otherwise I will probably or badly bring the axle to a workshop and let the professionals make it. Then there are the cone roller bearings, these are inner bearings with approx. 44m total diameter and 40mm inside diameter. I have already tried ‘flexing’ (with nem Dremel), but this does not work without also in I don’t like to cut the hub, weld a handle or the like, because I’m not trained with the welding first and I’m afraid the heat is probably not so good for the hub For such bearings there are obviously such basic hole inner puller kits. Of the diameter this would probably fit, but according to my previous experiences with such kits I’m a little skeptical. Does anyone have any experience with it here? Or maybe another recommendation? Thank you and greetings O ll

Good evening, I won’t be able to use a lift as much as I like in the future. Since I like to screw myself to my car (Mercedes S-Class) from time to time, I have been thinking for a few days about how I can set up for work under the car in the future. Since I can only work outside in a parking lot, maximum in an underground car park, only a jack with extras such as underhangs is in question. ts this cheap jack from Deuber. The thing is nice low (I absolutely need) and suitable for up to 2T but I don’t want to lift a complete axle with the thing for a long time and also put myself under the car. At the moment I can’t get any further. Thanks to the sports package and air suspension from factory, the car is quite deep and completely disguised from below. I don’t know a recording point per axle. Now I am on this set from Bahco consisting of 50kg jack My idea would be, for example, to lift the rear at the lifting points under the doors with the cross beam at the same time and to place the lower beam at the front. Unfortunately, the cross beam with a maximum width of 98cm is apparently not made for it. Unfortunately, I can’t find a cross beam that is at least 1.60m wide. Do you have better ideas for a quick-up and degradable solution? Otherwise, I have to use a proper jack (the top ve However, it’s too difficult for me to buy a jlinkte from Bahco) and if there is no other way to go to a rental workshop with a lift.