Category: Werkzeug Forum

What do you think of this demolition hammerhttps://vevor.de/…/…-abschlusshammer-portable-stemmen-360-swivel?… Very cheap price, high wattage (3600 watts), huge Meissel, high weight, spare carbon brushes Is there also something cheaper in 2 further versions 1500 and 2200 watts

For the current occasion, I also looked around for a third-party starter cable in the course of a new battery. For this purpose, there are the most different qualities. This time it was important to me that the cable is extremely long, because one of my vehicles is so parked that it is difficult to get there. But long also means that the cross-section has to be larger. In addition, it also depends on the overvoltage protection when choosing. You can also retrofit it. A well-known German Firm a offers something like this for 2 different cable diameters directly on the cable (the cable -8m- which I have in mind does not have that!).Other companies offer an overvoltage protection for mounting directly on the battery. My questions: 1. How effective is the whole thing at all? (It should also protect the pears from voltage peaks in normal operation) 2. Is there a difference between an overvoltage protection on the cable to an overvoltage protection on the battery? (I have scho scho 3. Should you still work with cables or not look for another way? For example: starter battery or capacitor technology. (I tend to a capacitor technology in person, because a) a starter battery after years is also empty, if I need it and b) the capacitor technology lasts a lifetime and shows no wear.) What do you mean?

I want to make fixing points in my garage floor for fixing ramps. The floor is tiled on screed. Of course I can just dowel and screw it up. But the ramps should of course only stand if necessary and if I take them away there should be neither a hole because of dirt (it is already sawn in the garage), nor a screw head or similar survive over which one stumbles.. Does anyone have an idea how I can realize this? Have already Googled, but find nothing In this context, it should be noted that, in the light of the above considerations, the Commission’s assessment of the compatibility of the aid with the internal market is based on the fact that the aid granted by the State is compatible with the internal market.

Hello together, the following situation: A somewhat remote hall should be monitored with an alarm system, which transmits an alarm to a mobile phone app (so that you can also get the alarm). The same applies also to the smoke detectors (alarm via a mobile phone app). Perhaps there is also a system that can do both. In the conversation was a Luxone system for building automation (but is almost a bit overkill). Maybe someone has done this before and has a tip for me. PS. Internet. is probably made by means of a Fritzbox LTE (but shouldn’t matter). Thank you very much. Greetings Metalhead

Thank you for reading my review and I hope it was helpful and you enjoyed it. Feedback about the review or your experience with the manufacturer I would be very pleased If anyone else has any questions, I’d like to answer them I’ll add a long-term review as soon as I’ve had the opportunity to work with the torque wrench longer. Greetings, Mike

Can anyone tell me if there are pipelines that are free for Ex Protected Areas? I want to build a dust extraction and in that area, unfortunately, the Ex Protection is mandatory.

Hello, I drive a Golf 3 and these rusts very much like. I am now looking for a reasonable tool (likely also compressed air operated) to remove the maraudous underbody protection in the endangered places. So far I have always used a flex with braid brush. But this is first too hard for me to last, secondly you don’t get anywhere and thirdly this method is not just sheet-protecting Hatz since someone experience with? So as I said: Per compressed air would be optimal, because We have 2 compressors here and a nice compressed air network with a total of 3 tanks. So the supply should not be a problem.

Hello, currently I have 3 advice trays, two tin cases and 3 drawers in which my screwdriver flies around. In addition to pliers, pullers…. Of all the machine cases and boxes, where there are still tools and accessories in it… A typically grown tool collection halt. Now I have already looked into net also workshop cars, but first of all everything never fits in there, and then you are quickly going for an empty car again 3-400 Euro. I brewed there So nn at least 2 pieces and then I would have to take off my shelves or at least convert them to make room for them. That would give me new problems again. Now I have found these plastic boxes, but unfortunately the inner dimensions are not there. Does someone know them and can tell me if there are tool inserts that fit in there?https://www.keter.com/…/…023-schreibladenkoffer-acetal-schreiber.html Greetings Chris

Hi, since I am now dedicated to the sheet metal processing of my Alteisen project, the question arises to me, what I can still make the work easier for me. Angle grinders of sizes 120,110 and a 75 mini battery (and still a 240, but I don’t want to cut the car small) Otherwise jigsaw and a simple sheet metal shear. However, the sheet metal shears always require a subsequent smooth knock, so is rather unpopular. Where would such a sheet metal nibbler help me? If meaningful, what do you have to do? There are also essays for the drilling machine, what do they do (I want to fix the car only once in the near future) or is the total scrap, or what disadvantages/advantages do they have compared to a complete device? Looking forward to your answer(s)! Greetings Chris

Hello guys, I wanted to drill out an 8.8 screw on my column drill and failed. I took normal HSS-G drills (Ruko Terrax) – new and no blunt. They are suitable for steels up to 900 N/mm2 tensile strength and should actually be enough. I also drilled an 8.8 screw with the hand drill. But this time nothing went on. I got in a few millimeters well and then only had to turn cutting oil into smoke and blue anlau I can only explain it in such a way that the screw had a higher strength than indicated on the head. Now the question arises what kind of drill I take there. I fear that the failed drill test has led to a hardening and it is now twice as difficult.