Category: Werkzeug Forum

Hello, I’m new here in the forum, but I’ve been following some posts for some time. My question doesn’t fit directly into this OBD forum, but this department seemed to be the most similar to me;-) We only repair vintage cars, so vehicles that are 50-100 years old, so I often need old test devices. Currently I have this SUN QST 900 ignition tester which actually works without any problems, i.e. ignition time, early adjustment, closing angle etc. he does not assign – see arrows on the photo The upper one is a fixed socket without a rest or similar, so you could not plug in a plug. The lower one can be pulled out with a cable and has a multi-pole connection that reminds of old DIN connections from the HIfi area…. And the half-covered switch at the bottom right (D <--> M) does not open to me either. Does anyone have an idea for what these connections or switches are? Or even better… does someone have a manual of this, or a similar device? We also have other larger testers, but this one only runs on 12V and is therefore also mobile, so I would like to use it. Thanks in advance

Moin moin, I got a compressor without compressor “gifted”. Since the company “Schneider” tells me something and since I grew up in Flensburg I just couldn’t say no. Now I have the good thing here and I have to find out that I have no idea. Therefore the following questions: – Would it be advisable (since 1969) to bring the boiler to the tuv?! Rust from inside he does not have any, that I could check. – Can I “just” a new compressor at Ebay or so bring with 10-12 bar and it fits somehow?! ==> something like this for example : https://www.ebay.de/itm/255924446902 – how can I get out which belt I need?! Just go after length?! Should someone from North West Lower Saxony come so I would also be grateful for help 🙂 On the pictures everything is still dirty and chaotic! Clean is everything now and looks like quality 🙂 Thanks for the help already T5M

The transverse handlebar screw on the Audi A6 is so fixed that it has more than 200 newtonmeters of torque before it goes back again, can be rotated at a maximum of 90° and then starts to become crooked. Unfortunately, I already sunk the thread, and I don’t know which tool I should pull the screw out of the head now. With the Meiselhammer it doesn’t go any further because the angle is not right and also with a huge hammer with 2.5 joules impact force the screw no more millimeters go out t. Drilling doesn’t work either because no access fender blocks the angle. I know all the common methods like pulling out on the thread with the press-air hammer or any expressions, all this can’t be done, I need a tool to pull out

Greetings, I thought before I bought some schmarn I would rather ask you, maybe someone has already had experiences and can help me. At the moment I have only one China paint gun from eBay https://www.ebay.de/itm/254663694557?… With 100 ml cup and 1.0 nozzle. With the gun I have painted 2 cars half and my 924 complete. Results have been acceptable but for my Calibra would also be a complete paint, since u had I thought to buy a new gun. I had to spend 80-120€ now, what makes the most sense then? A SATA or DeVilbiss used to shoot by classified ads? Are there any models that can be avoided or rather on another brand? Thanks already for your help

Moin Yes I know…… in this respect there are already ellenlange threads I have shot myself on Makita; for me, however, the question is open which screwdriver offers the best compromise of performance and handling to solve e.g. screws on the chassis. The 1000 variant seems to be a very nice knocker with 3.2kg and I unfortunately have no possibility to hold a variant from the DTW family in my hand at all. uben, or does a battery device even create this? Thanks for the information / reviews

For the first time I enjoyed a MAG welding machine. Nothing professional, only for the hobby needs. I know from arc welding that the welding electrodes have to be stored dry, otherwise they do not work well anymore. How is this with the welding wire for MAG welding? If you leave it in the welding torch when not in use or roll it up better or maybe even take the roll out of the device? It’s about full wire, not about filling wire. the workshop – so already dry, but increased humidity (unheated). The welding machine is probably only in use every few weeks. Thanks already for your tips

Hallows I need a drawer cabinet for my wrench etc., which I can put under my existing workbench. However, the keys are already available. The dimensions would be about 900 high, 780 wide and 570 deep. Everything in millimetres is of course. Because of fire protection it should be sheet metal and not wood. 1. Is there such a thing? 2. Are there universal foam inlays that I can put in the drawers to insert my tool there? I am grateful for any help.

Moin, I’m sure I’m blind or something, but I’ve been looking for joint ring ratchet keys for quite a while, where you can lock the joint manually (such as KS Tools Gearplus) and which have a lever or button to change direction of action, as you know from ratchet. Wanting to turn the keys around can sometimes screw up the day if you do that in the wrong corner… I mean something like that seen by SnapOn in one of the various American YouTube videos I have either a board in front of the hopper or it is not offered. Either a lockable joint or the change lever, I can’t find both together somehow. I’m less convinced of self-locking joints. I’m relatively brand-open, but I certainly don’t import tools myself from the USA (the freight costs alone…) and then still from THE boutique brand par excellence. I don’t drive duesenberg, after all, but Audi. hme what works, even if there is no big brand on it. Maybe some of the people reading here have some suggestions to make it easier for me to search – if there is such a thing. Thanks already in advance. MfG

What kind of metal drill set can you recommend to me!? Should 25 be partial, I would invest up to 60 euros in price of 3- 10/13 mm! What’s the difference Tin/colbalt/hss-e/hss-g Look not right through… Thank you in advance

Well, I have a limousine (BMW E90), which does not have a spare wheel, so therefore no hollow but a small almost square compartment under the actual trunk floor. I wanted to put a few tools in there now, you can always use it. Only this time it should not be a big suitcase, like with my Opel it was the case. Wanted to know from you what you can recommend there : 1. Regarding the equipment of the tool box (in the huge case I had more tools) but by the small box, my selection of tools is limited, so what do you think most important that you should always carry with you. 2. Which brand? I personally do not have to spend all too much, because it is not in use every day, but in case of doubt should already work. I have my problems with mansman’s switchbar, which we use at home, because it’s already gone crazy by a little use (not the mechanics inside, but the handle, so the rubber padding (yes, I know, criticism at a high level)). But Hazet, for example, can have a high quality, but the high price associated with it would be, I think, in almost any case too high for my needs. I would be grateful for a few suggestions MfG Zajkar