Category: Werkzeug Forum

As a summer car I bought an old beautiful Golf 1 GTI, which has cost me several hundred hours of work, I bought two toolboxes in the Aldi at that time, but they are now both quite rented, now I wanted to buy something more high-quality tool, but that probably won’t be so cheap, I have already looked around and I am ready to put the 1,000€ for tool on the table. But then I would also like to have something, which lasts a lifetime! Therefore I would you know which experiences you have made with which brands and which brand is leading in which areas?!

Hello, in a Gedore safe note sheet, the section “Screw Keys” says: Quotation: Always pull the wrench up to yourself! Never push the wrench away from you! If you can only press the wrench for constructive reasons, press with the open palm of your hand to avoid injuries to the ankle. The same note can be found again under “Knarren, Aktivungstool und Steckschlüsselinserte”. I have a lot of thoughts. If I think about it exactly, I probably have pushed the tool away from me so far, so that it does not move in my direction when suddenly giving in (slip or break). Apparently I have handled this wrongly for more than 30 years. Or not? How do you do it? Free to snout or like in the Gedore instructions? MfG, Tazio1935

I would like to meet the long-happened desire of a separate lift soon. The workstation is about 7m long and over 4m high, so actually good conditions for a 2-pillar stage. Problem: The available space is only 3.07m wide. Although I found a “garage version” of a 2-pillar stage, which can do with 2.98m width, however, it is not done with the installation of the stage. Especially on a 5 Series BMW E60, not a small car. o on stage, but still down, can move me backwards, for example, to correctly place the arms of the 2-pillar stage under the shots? Do I have an obelix-like figure… So maybe a scissor stage? But can I still get to the DPF or the fuel-ilter?

Hello, I have exactly the same question as a member 6 years ago, but electronics is developing quickly https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…without-power connection-t6119242.html I want to shut down my car in the underground garage in winter 5 months and have no power connection there. It is a CLS 500, built in 2016. I could of course disconnect the battery, but I don’t want to do so if avoidable. .B. from CTEK, to operate with a power bank or a battery? Or is there such a device now with battery? Greetings, Tomekk S.

Hello @ all. I have the search and also Google tormented but unfortunately only found the expensive for car or the cheap for party. Can someone recommend me something which is good for wrong air diagnosis on the car etc. but not immediately becomes so expensive? What simple devices have enough pressure so you can make a clever diagnosis? Thank you. Greeting

Hello guys, I’ve lost my 8AH battery. I had it lying around for a week on charging level red and after that he didn’t let himself charge. I don’t know about other batteries, of course you shouldn’t store them like that, but a week and then he’s dead?! Whether the Bluetooth function has the battery deep discharge? Lidl/Grizzly Tools accepted the complaint and since the 8AH battery is currently not available, they offer me two 4AH batteries (with Bluetooth). Otherwise I would have to wait at least until February. W would you do it? Do you notice the lower maximum current of the 4AH battery? I only have the comparison 2AH vs 8 AH. And there it is that the battery-flex has significantly less power. On the other hand, I have to say that the 8AH battery is already very heavy and you can feel it while working.

Hello together, at the moment I’m working on an idea of how I can work under the car without a lift or pit. For cost and space reasons. Now to my idea: what do you think about buying four of these ramps (see pictures) and then pushing each wheel under the ramp by means of a jack? Driving up to all four will be difficult, since the car is too deep and so you would have the opportunity to determine the position of the ramps well. Then you could then reach the height mi ttels further influence the hydraulics. I would also like to take cost-effective runs with a hydraulic for the tires that do not have a ramp. I don’t do it anyway. But I couldn’t find such a thing so far. Maybe you know more. Thanks already for suggestions and your support!

Hello, I’m looking for bolt securing, which can be applied to the screws, dries and is screwed later. Like for example with OEM brake writing screws. E.g. http://shop.buell-parts.com/…rake-rotor-all-Buell-XB-and-1125-models I tried with Loctite 243, unfortunately the stuff after more than 24 hours was not dry, if the screw was not screwed. So only seems to work if the screw is screwed directly. Or is it d aran that my tube is too old?? Ask for constructive help (not to ask for why, but to see my problem as given.) Thank you and greeting, Julian

Dear tool addicts too have packed it for me, a nice hobby tool can make addictive … To the point: will soon carry out smaller exchange actions like the spark plugs (second car) as well as glow candles on my diesel in self-direction. I always do the tire exchange actions with the MC200, as far as everything is ok. A defined loosening of the delinquent can save money (break by overturning). Therefore my question: is FAMEX 10872 the only candidate in this hobby area that the L Proxxon won’t offer a “defined left run” even with the new MC60… In itself I like Proxxon, for my purposes almost too good On the edge: how large should the measuring range be?. I know the following applications: 28 NM – spark plugs Bosch 17 Nm – oil drain screw VW (in about ) 8-30 Nm – glow plugs Can anyone call me a few other useful applications? Thank you in advance!

Hello dear MotorTalker so far I have always used the mounting pit in the garage of the father-in-law when I screwed on the car, now the own house construction incl. garage is on, and of course I want to equip it so that I can work with me in the future,… The question arises, what do I build best to get under the car? The pit I have used so far is relatively “sight”, perhaps 1.5m. I am 1.86 large, and accordingly was the A… better than nothing of course, but it was often really no fun,… The few times I could work with the lift were no comparison,… you probably all know what I’m talking about… The disadvantage of a stage is that one of the pillars is always in the middle of the room. I currently have a double garage with 7x7m planned, so I would have to park with a car always “between” the lift. I guess it’d be a bit out of hand… How did you solve this situation with you? A thought would be back to the pit, but at least so low that I can stand up in it, and so long that the whole car is covered with it… (that would make a ventilation etc. necessary) I’ve also seen stages, with only one side column, that would then come to the wall side and four arms grabbing under the car. But I’m not sure how trusting wec or a stage with a central lifting stamp? Ideal would be a solution with two columns that I can push outwards to the wall when not in use, and if I need them in the middle, but there is no such thing… I don’t think I’m the first one who has this problem I would be very happy about your thoughts or experiences on the subject. LG, Elwood