Category: Werkzeug Forum

  • 230V impact wrench or a rattler

    I know there are already some threads, but I don’t get smart from them because everyone says something else. I need a impact screwdriver to solve really hard screws under the car. For example, where you can’t get to bad and exercise real power. If you were to spend around 500€, now my question is whether it’s better to invest in a good 230v impact screwdriver or rather buy a small compressor with Rattermann. Thank you for your help.

  • Plug-in wrench set of BITUXX= Taurus = Wiesemann = KS Tools?

    Hi. I would like to invest the Christmas money for a socket wrench set for home use. At Amazon I have now seen from Taurus a very well filled socket wrench set for 77€ https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01LXKNB95 In the “Customers who viewed this article have also looked” I noticed several quasi identical boxes, e.g. from KS Tools for 84€https://www.amazon.de/…/B00DEGW6D6 and from Wiesemann (the “brand” I don’t know at all) for 100€!https://w ww.amazon.de/…/B01KG2EM82 and once without name most affordable for 70€https://www.amazon.de/…/ or 50€ from “BITUXX”https://www.amazon.de/…/ Is this always the same China box where only everyone installs their own handle and sells the whole with 50€ price difference? Think if I keep looking for the same box guaranteed at Alibaba and co even cheaper to come out. Or did the friendly Chinese copy from a brand manufacturer? Thank you.

  • What fat is it?

    I removed the rear windscreen wiper engine from my car and wanted to clean it and grease it again. So far everything worked out. My question is about the fat that was already in the engine. It was reddish, very tough and had a rather unpleasant smell. However, it was far tougher than my often used ball bearing fat. Can anyone tell me something about the fat? Which one is it? Whether it’s good or a better one? Many greetings

  • Kaufberatung Unterstellbock

    Hello! With me there are repairs, for which I have to lift the whole front axle (Pkw). Since I want to take my time and do not like the unfriendly atmosphere in the rental workshop (and also do not know if my tool would get new owners there while I screw), I would like to work at home on the private parking space. This means that my small folding underlays are not enough. Some cheap magazine has published a “test” which looks more like advertising. t. The BITUXX base-bump is praised there. I ordered a few of them and find their workmanship quite bad. Go back immediately. So the search goes on. Therefore my question… Which one of these base-bumps would you entrust your life to: – Bahco heavy load base-bump 8t – BGS 3016 base-bumps load 6t At the first model I think that the short bearing vertical pipe could also go to the ground. Thus the whole load would not be alone on the sweat In the second model I would only hope that the processing is better than with the BITUXX. Here the load is also on welds, but always so that at least on the upper one there is no train. Nevertheless, I do not trust the mechanism with the lever and the teeth completely. What would you choose? Which buck would you give more confidence? I plan the two hooks on the other side. and use the two small folding jacks as a fail-safe.

  • Who knows the manufacturer or the model of the compressor or compressor?

    Hello together, I have bought an old (probably 50’s) compressor and possibly need spare parts for the compressor. Unfortunately I have no idea who the manufacturer of the wonder factory was or what this could be for a model. YES, THAT HAT NIX WITH MY ML TO TUN ABER GGF. HAVE YOU A SACHDIENLY NOTE TO THE COMPRESSOR/DISCOVER Only on the engine is a type plate AM90 SX4 (1100KW 1380turns 400v) and otherwise it is relatively naked… the gray-blue machine color is or iginal and the Lftfilter is a Festo (probably it was installed with a lot of devices). With pictures… I’m curious if you can help me.

  • Bosch Universal Impact 18V-60? good or bad?

    Hello, does anyone have experience with the green Bosch devices? The above mentioned was recommended to me, as 18V, brushless engine, 60 NM, drill chuck made of metal. What do you say? I am a DIYer looking for a universal device, with a good price performance ratio. Should be less than 150€. I was advised not by makita because the Chinese bought there and the quality has greatly decreased. I am grateful for your tips.

  • “My Lift Stand” – Aufbockhilfe from the USA in Germany?

    Hello guys, I wanted to ask you if you already know the “My lift stand” support from America? If not here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0 I really like the system and wonder that I just don’t find anything like that in Germany? I’ve already been googled but there’s nothing useful about it. In theory, you could do it yourself, but since I don’t have the whole material and clever welding device, i Has someone already seen something like this to buy in Germany? And has a keyword for what I can look for? The ramps “High Drivers” go to me on the cookie, because you always have to be together because of slipping away and also always underlay a deeper car does not come up. Greetings and beautiful holidays, Christian

  • Is there a ramp or something else?

    Good day, I would like to do more things myself with my Mondeo MK4 in the future and possibly need ramps. The car will continue to see a workshop regularly (e.g. for brakes and other safety-relevant parts), but what I trust myself for and for which you do not need an expensive special tool, I would like to do it myself. With the ramps made of steel, the ramp height is usually indicated with 20 cm. Usually only 15 cm or less. Do 20 cm suffice to move comfortably under the car on a workshop rollboard and, for example, screw the traverse of a trailer coupling past the partially suspended exhaust? These rollerboards are usually already about 10 cm high. On the product photos of classic steel ramps it looks as if the tyres are only lying on the fold of two V-shaped metal profiles pointing upwards. feels warned of every curb edge and here the tyres should lie on a thin fold of metal for hours? Isn’t that bad for the carcass? Since I won’t work under the car every day, I could also imagine, if necessary, taking the car up under the side-opposite jacks. Since you have to lift the car at a different place, you need to think of the support points in front and back. I’m planning to buy a trailer. So I’ve also thought about loading ramps, which could be used to drive the car on a stable platform. However, enough stable ramps seem expensive and even with the inexpensive ones for almost 300 euros with 2 tons of carrying force per pair I have read in reviews that e.g. a trecker with just under 1.5 tons bent the ramps. The Mondeo weighs a similar amount… will you help me choose suitable tools for private screwdriver work? Thank you and warm regards Vivaldi

  • Lifting platform column tilts inward

    Hi! I probably have a problem with my lifting platform. I missed a basic frame some time ago on my Twin Busch 2 pillar lifting platform, because I mainly screw on heavy cars. For a better feeling when working. This base frame stands on a straight concrete base area. I aligned the columns exactly vertically on the base frame. The base frame is neatly anchored with the floor. So far so good, now I noticed when I tilt a vehicle about 1-2cm, that can be clearly perceived with the eye. Now to my question, is it normal that the columns incline inwards when loaded? I really care about that. Actually, the part should still stand vertically. Or do I have a mistake in thinking? I could counteract that, that I let the columns in the relieved state slightly tilt outwards. In the original construction instructions it is only to position vertically. Concrete floor + base frame u I wanted to hear your thoughts about the problem. Greetings, Michael.

  • CTEK Recond mode

    Hello, I have had a CTEK Multi XS 4003 since c. 2010 (equal to MXS 5). In my opinion a very good charger. Last week I screwed about 8 hours on the car and let the radio run, after the subsequent start the engine took care of something and the onboard computer warned me of the low battery voltage, i.e. charger connected, battery fully charged, everything again well! Now I have read the operating instructions from the charger again and there stood over the “Recond mode” that you should use with deep-discharged batteries or once a year to restore the power of the battery?! On the other hand, the manufacturer warns in the guide against too strong water loss! I have never used the Recond mode! My car battery is a maintenance-free Centro battery with 74Ah from February 2008! Should you use the Recond mode to refresh the battery? The battery is almost 5 years old after all.