Category: Werkzeug Forum

I would like to put a drawer box under my workbench. At the moment I have kitchen furniture from bulky waste that fall apart. Actually I wanted something used to be professional, but find nothing. At the Hagebaumarkt there is “Wolfcraft”, it seems so plastic-like to me. Alternatively I have found this here:http://www.ebay.de/itm/300909018718?… The size and price would be right. What do you think?

Hello I would like to buy a lift with a base frame in the near future. Since my foundation or the base plate has “only” about 20cm thickness (most manufacturers require 25cm and double armed) and there has already stood a lift without a base frame (12x heavy load anchor). I do not know how tragic it is when the base plate is already drilled with 12 holes but I can imagine that the concrete is a little weakened now. Therefore I would prefer one with a base frame on Since the choice of lifting platforms with basic frames is quite limited, I thought one could possibly build a frame or have it built by the metal builder so that one can buy a normal lifting platform! Would such a thing be possible? What effort is to be expected? What would such a frame cost if I had it made by a metal builder? Does anyone have pictures of such a frame? Would I be interested in how the columns are attached to the frame. Pillars to screw tight? Hope it can help anyone. Greetings

What do you think is good enough?http://www.amazon.de/…/279-4654463-7204052?…http://www.ebay.de/…/261478163314?… Short version: I realize that it will be difficult for people who have nothing to say about writing to the subject, but I try anyway, that’s why I get a little further in the first post. It’s about changing the brake fluid. In a commercial tuning booth. Both people are well trained and with a lot of experience in What they have done so far. Gifted mechanics stop. Focus are VAG vehicles. I myself am involved in the question only as a friend of the house and should also listen to the change of the brake fluid only occasionally. They are connected either with the conversions or it dive off and to people who want to switch to more powerful fluid than the factory filled up. About the 10 times a year this is the case. Tendency is currently however slightly rising The classic 2-man method with pumps, care for the diarrhea of the brake pedal and further tricks have now been explained as suboptimal It is tedious, time-consuming and the old soup can hardly be completely banished from the system with the new one, if you do not want to blow up the 2 times the amount. So a device should be used as a remedy. A 1000€ electric device is found for oversized. First of all this is already a proper investment, then this is again a large box the somewhere. It is also not as flexible if a different liquid is desired each time.

Hello, we have a self-built piston compressor at our house, which can be switched on via a relay circuit either from the basement or from the garage. This then feeds the compressed air network. Unfortunately, the compressor is located in a place where you can not get so easily, so regular drainage of the tank is difficult. Therefore, I want to install a valve on the tank, which does this automatically. However, I do not know if there is such a thing, bz w. as such means. I imagine that the valve at the bottom of the tank opens very briefly every time the compressor is switched on and so the condensate comes out. Of course, I am also very grateful for other suggestions for solving my problem.

Day together, I’ve been lying around a little CO2 bottle unused for a long time – it’s still from my youth when I couldn’t afford a Corgon to sweat every time it catches my eye when I walk through the workshop I’m thinking about what to do with it, because to throw away it’s still too bad for me. Now I had the igniting thought of these days (perhaps also by the fact that I was last at the Montie In the case of a tyre, which did not want to “pump”, it was necessary to annoy for 20 minutes with a tyre which did not want to “pump”, to use it for the construction of a tyre booster – charge on the compressor to 10 or 15 bar – a corresponding pipe with nozzle can be safely procured or tinkered. I still lack the right idea only for the valve. The existing screw valve is of course completely unsuitable for booster purposes because it takes far too long to come from the condition “to” to “completely open” and that is the prerequisite b Does anyone have an idea or know where to get the valves installed individually in the buyable boosters?

Hey, I’ve been a hobby cultivator for a while and I set up a small garage a few months ago, where I pursue my hobby. After I set up everything, I now get problems with the transport of things in my “workshop”. I can’t move some wooden panels, equipment etc. on my own. What helps you to solve such problems? Do you have ideas and recommendations? Thank you for all your contributions!

Moin, I have a lifting platform of Ravagliali, spindle platform with chain running down, 6 weeks old the part. I changed all the longitudinal handlebars at a 98 Grand Cherokee, which are tightened only when the car is fully on the wheels. So high the box, 1. longitudinal handlebars out, new ones in, screws hand-tightly tightened, cars dropped off, then trolleys up again, next handlebars etc… With each release the car moves something, after the 3rd time it was so far moved that I had to drive him in again, the arms of the stage were no longer enough, he went forward to the left or back to the right, true something of both. But it doesn’t matter if I have the automatic on “N” or “P”. What could this be? Tomorrow the customer service comes, there is still something in the wrong, no idea if it is related to it, the following: This is a 3.2t stage, the jeep weighs almost 2t, you lift the car, no matter if 10cm or 1.50m, stops the lifting, it thinks differently s and wants to continue up, rattles and shrugs and twitches it powerfully, the pillars trembl accordingly, you have to let off at least 10cm and then drive up again, then it runs without problems, is also not in the sense of the inventor! I had the stage set up, actually I don’t think that the mechanic has made mistakes, but can and doesn’t want to exclude it either, but that’s not my problem… I would appreciate it of course, if that was all about putting the stage together If it were to hang, two birds would be with one stone.

Hi, if that is not desired, gladly delete. I have had this in the newsletter today. A 40-200 torque wrench of Taurus gives us today for 56€ Since this is really cheap, here is the hint. Whether Taurus is good? No idea, but it is certainly better than what you get for about 50€. I don’t have the part myself, also belong neither to Taurus nor Contorion.https://www.contorion.de/p/…ium-1-2-inch-aufnahme-40-200-nm-73146897 Greetings Chris

I want to buy a compressor with which you can also use a tornado. According to the Internet, almost 200-240L is needed for this. I assume that this is about dispensing power and not suction power, right? In the search for compressors I noticed the whisper compressors of the company Starkwerk, Knappwulf and Implotex. These are probably all simply Re-Brandet China-cracker. Implotex operates violent advertising on Youtube via Influencer (M1Molter and other Is Implotex really better than the other China? Is the 1500W 45L compressor really enough for the Tornado? 6Bar sufficient for the Tornado ?https://www.implotex.de/…/ Alternatively, of course, a 100L compressor from Güde/Sheppach/Metabo or other brands with proper suction power (double cylinder?) would be conceivable. However, the things are so insanely loud that I would have to make another case for ~50-100€, which is what I need to do. Are there well-known whisper compressors that are payable (substantially less than 1000€)?

Hello together, which lamp should I buy for work on and under the car???? So far I always had some with cable. Rod lamp with glass and wire basket fitting with 60W incandescent lamp, because in a short time always the filament burned through. Then I had several thin rod lights with the light tube in it. Also these always broke. Only yesterday when I had it in the door-holm a little longer smoked this off. 300 W-Flutter I had already used. Everything was somehow ni x useful. Lifespan very low, cumbersome in handling with long cable. Mounting possibilities also not ideal, too hot etc. etc.. What is better? LEDs should be very bright, that wouldn’t be bad. With battery-powered devices I found that these sooner or later give up the mind and if people are needed quickly times the battery is mostly empty. So again cables with plugs and LED’s ???? Who has experience with car workshop lighting and can Recommend a suitable lamp(s) to me? Best greetings – Reinhard