Category: Wohnmobile & Wohnwagen Forum

Hello, I’m about to buy a caravan from Denmark. It’s super in stand and the price is great. Unfortunately, the previous owners were afraid of gas and didn’t use gas in the caravan for 10 years, neither for heating nor for cooking. So you can’t guarantee whether it works. Do you have experience like it is after 10 years? Do we have to completely renew everything? And how are the costs for it? Gas testing and TÜV we have to make a new one here in Deuschland anyway. Greeting Mandy

Hello dear forum, What do I have to consider for the tuv at the caravan everything? What does everything have to work?

Hello, I’ve been looking for a long time in the net and also on the road. Why are so many campers with a normal license plate on the road. Don’t pay for an alternate license plate here? Or is the purchase of a season license plate cheaper? I can even transfer my damage-free years to the second vehicle.

Hello! I would like to connect a 220 V TV (37cm) to 12V via a voltage converter 12V DC current —-> 220 V AC current (is there in the electronics specialist store for about 40 €) Question: Is this possible, is the 220V AC voltage really exactly like the one from the grid ? sine curve? I have to buy the very expensive electricity at the campsites only because of the TV (In the T4 California with second battery) Thanks for the answers !

I would like to modify my existing, standard 12V interior lighting for the Puck L with LED lamps. Since Eriba has shown once again with my only 5 years old Puck L, that despite astronomical prices you still like to install nostalgia technology, these lamps must be AC and DC-suitable. In the 3 flat underbody lights are each 2 pieces G4 halogen lamps of each 10W and the two swivelling construction lights are also equipped with MR16 halogen spotlights 10W each equipped. (light goes differently…) I would like to exchange the 6x G4 halogen lamps for flat G4 LED “dishes” of approx. 2.5W each. There is already a larger selection, which I could also accommodate spatially in the luminaires, but it does not always stand in the technical data, whether these are also suitable for AC. With few lamps stands e.g. 12-30V AC/DC, but with many others only stands for e.g. 12V. therefore my question to the LED experts: can these LED lamps basically also be operated with AC same question then for MR16 (G5.3) LED lamps…

Hello, I have installed in my WoMo a new supply battery (Winner SMF 180Ah) which is charged via a) a 100Wp solar module via Steca 1515-solar controller and b) a separation relay 100A when driving via the LiMa (70A) (Plus connected via 16mm2, minus via chassis) At the battery I have an inverter (Sinus, 1500W). Here the case is: the battery is on 12.1V. If I am on the road now about 1 hour, the battery charges to 12.5V. (voltage during driving approx. 13.4V). Then charge ic h two laptops over the inverter (approx. 200Wh). Meanwhile, the battery voltage slowly settles to 11.8V, and then, when I turn off the inverter again, stabilizes to approx.12.0V. What can this be? Battery broken (but both on the inverter and on the charging controller, over which the consumers are connected, have deep discharge protection)? Inverter broken too weak? LiMa too weak (but why is the battery charged to 12.5?) How big can the voltage drop on the B be? to be atterie when switching on a consumer in general? Hair Rising, Robert

Hello, I would never have thought this possible. Our caravan ( Hobby Prestige 545) is located 15 meters from our house on a fenced premises. Last night, nightshade plants considered it necessary to look home for a Ww. year 1989, secured with camera and light barriers. Probably the uninvited visitors thought that in the Ww. my office was located. They could not drive away the Ww. of course, because the But the damage left by the uninvited visitors is considerable. The camera destroyed them (with whatever) first. This is also very good! You can’t see anything before! Then they were sealed under the radiation bands of the light barriers and ravaged in the Ww. There was logically nothing in it that would have had any material value. Out of all frustration the uninvited guests then inflamed an uninvited guest. Fire in the ww.. Ok, it is already really cold at night. But, also the fire laying wants to be learned, otherwise the fire suffocates before it can cause real damage. ( Luckily they had no fire accelerator) In our case it will probably be done with a new fridge door and a new carpet covering. Last year I had a door contact alarm, which switched on loudly and self-sufficiently when opening the ww. door, made noticeable. After my wife more I unintentionally triggered this alarm, I removed it again. An evocative mistake, as I have now recognized. My tip to all living mbil and Ww.- Owners: Door and window fuses are also in apparently safe surroundings quite useful. Anyway, I see the incident sporty and thank the invaders warmly, because the floor covering was never my taste. ( But, what not everything is installed for the better half) Seriously: It’s pathetic, which depraved gestures old presumptuous to destroy the property of others. Pfui! Greetings from the asphalt hopper

Hello, in May I have to install a roof fan in the area of the kitchen. There is a normal hatch 40cmx40cm. It comes out and the Thule Vent comes in. However, the Thule has suggested my dog. He meant that this is better than e.g. the Fiamma which is screwed with 12 screws and the danger is significantly greater for leakproofness. What experience do you have? Which hood would you recommend?

Since my current expansion, this week, I have now one: “BMV-712 Smart”. A “battery computer”, which shows everything possible, stream in, or out and how long it has been, etc.. Also a logfile is created, which you can look into the past. What I miss very much is the function that the mobile (so it remains in the car, but I always have such an ancient ipad in the car) sends every 24h (or configurable) a mail with the data. As for example the fritzbox, if you have the of course it’s great that I can read my data on the car, comfortable with BT, but it’s really great if it’s done from afar. I’m not a fan of cloud, but an email every 24 hours with the battery status, that would be great. Someone has a solution for it, maybe even with a raspberry. The solar controller (from the same manufacturer) can pretty much do that, but also don’t see that he would send his log as mail. w

Hello dear camper community! My Elektrolux RM 200 has given up its mind. It does not work with electricity or with gas. Is there possibly the cooling liquid evaporated? Is there a repair (38 years old), or is there a cheap replacement for this type? The newer models have quite different dimensions,unfortunately. Who had the same problem before,and how was it solved? MfG tabbertklaus