Category: Wohnmobile & Wohnwagen Forum

Meal together, since I found nothing here my question: always put my Womo in winter quarters at the end of October until the beginning of March. Closed plot, cover up and good. Stoman closure is available however I ask myself the question whether you should connect it permanently or not. Was after about 4 weeks look and had determined that the build-up batteries in the display only had 6,7 volts starter battery was over 12 volts. Have the Womo nu Starter battery 13.8 volts build-up battery 13.1 volts Today, after exactly one week, check out: Starter battery 12.9 volt build-up battery 11.8 volts Is this still ok ? Location Berlin, if this is important in terms of temperature. Best regards and all a nice 4th Advent

A hello to all the nomads from Mittelerde! With WW it was/is it easy … the tank has to be filled up regularly because small and the water in it is always fresh. With the campers this is already a bit different. In the tank already fit, depending on the model, around 70 liters. If you don’t shower the water remains there already a few days. Are there any (legal) tricks or means that can be added without there being a chemical broth? Greeting from the southern states

Hello together, 3 questions about the electric block from SCHAUDT EBL 99 G: The device has a selector switch for the type of battery: lead acid or lead GEL. A lead acid battery is used as a starter battery, currently provided in the living room: lead gel battery. See drawing in the system. 1. Is it possible to operate the different designs without restriction with the position of the selector switch on acid or gel? 2. Or can only the same designs be operated? 3. Or does the choice form refer to the choice form. ter only on the living room battery? I would be happy about an answer on occasion. BG from the Oberpfalz

A friendly hello to everyone! The decision between a LiFePo4 12V 100 Ah battery or 2x Optima Bluetop 75Ah is pending. They are original equipment, because apart from the starter battery there is no on-board power technology. The battery’s should be in my VW T6 as on-board power supply, which is everyday vehicle and which I want to use as a camper at the same time. In the forum are unfortunately only older contributions to LiFePo, which are partly very critical regarding the operating conditions and charging requirements. It is true that today’s better/more tolerant/more powerful than 3 – 4 years ago. They are more affordable than they were then. What are the characteristics and conditions of use, so that the LiFePo4 in € per Ah taken over the lifetime are advantageous compared to the Optima’s? And in the behavior in the daily camper use? What are your findings and experiences about/with current LiFePo4? My superficial comparison: For LiFePo4 speak * the weight with approx.14-15 kg, and * the removable capacity with approx. 80% corresponding to 80Ah. There are offers between 600€/Ebay with BMS and 1600€/Victron with BMS and battery monitor. Yes, it is even more expensive, but does it have to be? Optima 2x75Ah * is with 50% removable capa corresponding to 75Ah also not bad. * The weight of 2×27,5 is still acceptable. * The batteries are significantly cheaper. With 400€ for both, BMS is not necessary, battery monitor is added (+200€?). * An optional extension by a 3rd battery gleic hen types is financially easier than LiFePo4, but it is difficult to weigh (82.5 KG) and is probably more complex in terms of control technology, since the old batteries have already aged a few cycles. If the price alone would decide, it would be Optima. On 40Kg more it doesn’t matter to me, and the two batteries I get under. But the robustness in handling is also important to me that I don’t always have to worry about. What about LiFePo4? Can you also use the cheaper LiFeP o4 trust? Experience shows – who buys cheaply etc.. What guaranteed properties should be taken into account? How secure are the information in the data sheets? Why do you hardly see C values, such as C10, C20? Now I am very curious – thank you for your contributions! Paul

A friendly hello in the round. This year we bought our first WoMo after 11 years of trailer. It is a Chousson 738 XLB with Fiat 2.3 and 4.4 t GG. I am satisfied and surprised about the low diesel consumption of the Fiat and the stable run. I have already installed some parts, like awning and satellite system. Now I want to install a second build-up battery. Since the existing battery displays however only i n LED bars I would like an actual display of the battery charge better. What is recommended. I have the iManager of NDS in mind. Does anyone have experience with it? An info would be great. Greetings from Pirna

As a non-specialist a question to the battery experts. I want to connect a 12 V can for the outside directly to the board/mover battery so that I have available both at short notice self-sufficiently, as well as generally 12 V in outdoor. Now the question: The CP is connected to 230 V and thus also the charger for the Mover battery that means that it is constantly charged. Is this usually enough when electricity is pulled from the battery at the same time? If, then not much, possibly H andycharging, or (only in an emergency) a cooling unit/box for a short time. However, I also want to switch a night lighting on a case by case basis. This means the WW is connected to 220 V, but the 12 V should be directed from the 12V-box into the suspension box on the corresponding PIN`s to illuminate the WW on the front door at night. Thus the mover battery is loaded, but also charged at the same time by the charger. adung from the charger is sufficient to operate that, or should I rather attach an external 220V > to 12 V converter?

We might want to go camping in winter Now I have asked my mature speci Because of all-weather tires and he meant my size is not 205/70/14 95T Do you even have to have winter tires on it in winter? How do you handle it?

Hello, I’ve also had a caravan for a few months now. I bought a 30-year-old Wilk CI for a little money, which was only on a fixed campsite since its first registration. It is year 1980 and already 1982 the TüV expired. After some repairs it worked with TüV and registration but super. Since in front of the caravan stood probably mostly an awning and the caravan was probably only used for sleeping, the interior is still in a great condition for the old one. At the second glance, however, there are a lot of things on the cart. The aluminium strips and especially the seals no longer make the best impression. In some places, water also seems to have reached the intermediate wall. The screws don’t hold there anymore, as the strips are probably rotten. (Are only a few places). Besides, my previous owners had fun at Window Color, which you can’t get off at all. The awning was simply screwed with eyelets to the outer wall. There are j My project: – Remove all aluminium profile rails – Remove outer skin – Replace Morse mouldings – Seal holes in the outer wall from the rear with kit or sealing compound – Reattach outer wall – Glue outer wall with foil (http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…eben-statt-lacquerieren-t2393379.html?…) – Reattach seals to the bottom of the mouldings (Where can I get them?) – Screw-on strips – Retread fillers and ends (Where can I get them?) – The roof I have a dry barn in which I can carry out this work. For difficult work I can rely on correspondingly skilled helpers. I would like to hear your opinion, whether this project can be carried out as I do the thinking? I would estimate costs of 500 to 700 euros. After that, however, the caravan would certainly make another 30 years. At the display windows a plastic profile was attached to the frame. I have not found any source of supply yet. If someone else has a tip I would be very pleased. Thank you for your contributions.http://data.motor-talk.de/…/…130404-140042-81691330807866468.jpghttp://data.motor-talk.de/…130404-140036-59710788376682503845.jpghttp://data.motor-talk.de/…/…0130404-140118-932215051764594132.jpghttp://data.motor-talk.de/…130404-140138-1897469327625031826.jpghttp://da ta.motor-talk.de/…/…130404-140111-73724942142395855.jpg

Hello I have to reseal at our caravan all dachluken. Now I have filled on the Keder rails already the screw holes with Sikaflex 221 to prevent that no water enters, because he gets anyway still completely new groin filler. Now I read however the Sikaflex 221 is not UV resistant. Does this now something because of the Keder rails ? And should I prefer to take something else for the roof hatches and the oven tube ? Thank you already for your answers

Hello, after our self-developed crafter (here we go to the expansion thread) is now practically finished, we are looking for a kind of canopy solution. Maybe you have an idea, which could best fit for us. We have the following requirements:1) Weight: Since four-wheel drive, 2+2 persons and max. 3.5t zGGw is weight “the” topic (for which we want to make many compromises and of course also have to. Please do not have any discussion about this, because everything is clear about this. )2) Use: Since we are mainly free, we are primarily looking for a solution that protects the direct area of the sliding door from rain and sun if necessary and does not need to be tensed or supported. We do not “camp” after all. A canopy (as it offers a normal awning or a sun sail, under which you can also sit properly and which of course also needs to be tensed or supported is Prio 2. Of course, you first think of an awning, which can be extended a small piece without having to support it immediately. Nevertheless, I wonder if there might be a clever solution, which might work in a Kederschiene or similar and would be much lighter than an awning.3) Size: The solution doesn’t have to be huge. If you can sit under it in a completely built state and find some shade, that’s enough. More important is that the direct area of the sliding door is covered. 4) F eatures: Options like electric motor is completely unimportant, because probably means more weight. The possibility of lighting would be nice but absolutely dispensable…5) Mounting: An additional roof rack to which the whole would be attached would be great, because I would have a solution for planned work lights and a solar panel at the same time but I guess a roof rack alone could hardly be found under 50kg of own weight? Consequently, only the awning would remain directly on the roof But there are again tens of different solutions/variants. Long story short: What would you be looking for? Which solution would you prefer? Who had similar requirements especially with regard to weight.