Category: Wohnmobile & Wohnwagen Forum

After a long fight with HDI insurance and assessment procedures, it is now recognized after 3 1/2 years that my casco damage is a total damage. However, it is now difficult to determine the replacement value, because the prices of 2014 would be important in the second-hand residential car trade. Who can help me to charge such prices: it is about a fully integrated motorhome LMC 6905I, EZ 2006, KM 85000 on the basis of the 4-to Mercedes-Sprinter 906, Zwillensbe maturation and differential lock, 416 CDI with 156 hp, with Alde hot water floor heating, additional diesel floor heating, as well as electric heating LMC, air suspension rear, coupling, motorcycle platform, Christop-SAT system, solar system, well-kept vehicle. Who can tell me from a reliable source about prices that were required for comparable vehicles in 2014?

Hello, since 11.2014 I have a Hymer B680 Starline built in 2013. I bought it from the Hymer Center Stuttgart from the rental company. It has a Blaupunkt NewYork 800 as Navi (with truck software). But it was installed so that the volume and telephone steering wheel control does not work. I bought a corresponding CAN bus adapter from the internet and wanted to install it. When I wanted to expand the radio (already pulled out) hit me. see photos. The CAN Bus K Abel of the Sprinter was simply tweaked. The wiring is the pure catastrophe! Something like this is called “German quality work” If you buy a new or very young camper for tens of thousands of euros, then please look at how this is done. Such a thing certainly does not last long. After a long time back and forth with the Hymer Center Stuttgart I was told that these cables are deliberately tweaked so that nothing else can be connected. n Original Mercedes Radio wants to install? Does anyone have the opportunity to get me an original Mercedes plug and also the correct original occupancy? please PM Thank you for your support. LG

Hello, I have a short question for you. I have a 12 volt system with a Lima( 90 amps ) and a battery with 100 Ah. The charging current should therefore lie between 9 -13 amps or? I would like to connect a compressor cooling bag with a power consumption of 60 watts and a tv device with a power consumption of 18 watts. Furthermore, the vehicle has its own consumer etc. Does this work well while driving, or does the consumer discharge the battery to me? What do I have to pay attention to? For your help, I would like to thank you. VG

Hi together. We have now been adding a used Knaus Südwind 450TF for about 2 months. Are super satisfied with it. We want to put a tent to next year. I noticed, however, that the transition between the Keders is not flush. Now I could imagine that the Vorzelr could be damaged by it. Do you have an idea how to straighten that or modify it so that the awning can be pushed through there cleanly? Greetings

moin moin, I’m of the opinion that we can only get away very late this year, with the mobile home. therefore I’m thinking of logging out the Womo, you can save some 100s by it, if you can’t use it. have you thought about it too? you should just be careful that you are in time, not to have to gruss

Meal together, since I found nothing here my question: always put my Womo in winter quarters at the end of October until the beginning of March. Closed plot, cover up and good. Stoman closure is available however I ask myself the question whether you should connect it permanently or not. Was after about 4 weeks look and had determined that the build-up batteries in the display only had 6,7 volts starter battery was over 12 volts. Have the Womo nu Starter battery 13.8 volts build-up battery 13.1 volts Today, after exactly one week, check out: Starter battery 12.9 volt build-up battery 11.8 volts Is this still ok ? Location Berlin, if this is important in terms of temperature. Best regards and all a nice 4th Advent

A hello to all the nomads from Mittelerde! With WW it was/is it easy … the tank has to be filled up regularly because small and the water in it is always fresh. With the campers this is already a bit different. In the tank already fit, depending on the model, around 70 liters. If you don’t shower the water remains there already a few days. Are there any (legal) tricks or means that can be added without there being a chemical broth? Greeting from the southern states

Hello together, 3 questions about the electric block from SCHAUDT EBL 99 G: The device has a selector switch for the type of battery: lead acid or lead GEL. A lead acid battery is used as a starter battery, currently provided in the living room: lead gel battery. See drawing in the system. 1. Is it possible to operate the different designs without restriction with the position of the selector switch on acid or gel? 2. Or can only the same designs be operated? 3. Or does the choice form refer to the choice form. ter only on the living room battery? I would be happy about an answer on occasion. BG from the Oberpfalz

A friendly hello to everyone! The decision between a LiFePo4 12V 100 Ah battery or 2x Optima Bluetop 75Ah is pending. They are original equipment, because apart from the starter battery there is no on-board power technology. The battery’s should be in my VW T6 as on-board power supply, which is everyday vehicle and which I want to use as a camper at the same time. In the forum are unfortunately only older contributions to LiFePo, which are partly very critical regarding the operating conditions and charging requirements. It is true that today’s better/more tolerant/more powerful than 3 – 4 years ago. They are more affordable than they were then. What are the characteristics and conditions of use, so that the LiFePo4 in € per Ah taken over the lifetime are advantageous compared to the Optima’s? And in the behavior in the daily camper use? What are your findings and experiences about/with current LiFePo4? My superficial comparison: For LiFePo4 speak * the weight with approx.14-15 kg, and * the removable capacity with approx. 80% corresponding to 80Ah. There are offers between 600€/Ebay with BMS and 1600€/Victron with BMS and battery monitor. Yes, it is even more expensive, but does it have to be? Optima 2x75Ah * is with 50% removable capa corresponding to 75Ah also not bad. * The weight of 2×27,5 is still acceptable. * The batteries are significantly cheaper. With 400€ for both, BMS is not necessary, battery monitor is added (+200€?). * An optional extension by a 3rd battery gleic hen types is financially easier than LiFePo4, but it is difficult to weigh (82.5 KG) and is probably more complex in terms of control technology, since the old batteries have already aged a few cycles. If the price alone would decide, it would be Optima. On 40Kg more it doesn’t matter to me, and the two batteries I get under. But the robustness in handling is also important to me that I don’t always have to worry about. What about LiFePo4? Can you also use the cheaper LiFeP o4 trust? Experience shows – who buys cheaply etc.. What guaranteed properties should be taken into account? How secure are the information in the data sheets? Why do you hardly see C values, such as C10, C20? Now I am very curious – thank you for your contributions! Paul

A friendly hello in the round. This year we bought our first WoMo after 11 years of trailer. It is a Chousson 738 XLB with Fiat 2.3 and 4.4 t GG. I am satisfied and surprised about the low diesel consumption of the Fiat and the stable run. I have already installed some parts, like awning and satellite system. Now I want to install a second build-up battery. Since the existing battery displays however only i n LED bars I would like an actual display of the battery charge better. What is recommended. I have the iManager of NDS in mind. Does anyone have experience with it? An info would be great. Greetings from Pirna