Category: Wohnmobile & Wohnwagen Forum

Hello WW/WM interior upgrade designers, as completely naked as we saw him/it at the beginning of the relationship, he/she did not stay. Our means of increased leisure value are quite often (if not always) subject to a care, which is expressed, among other things, by the fact that one does his favorite good by beautifying the interior. By this I mean not only this or that (plastic) flower (terrible, but I even have three of them, but look deceptively real), son In the design upgrade, however, it is very easy to start the shot backwards, because one intervenes in an existing, coordinated whole and the procedure can end visually or functionally painfully. Therefore, it is at least a long process for me, until I put on my (designer) hand, so that I am sure (?!) to be able to brag about it afterwards – in professional circles, of course. Question: Which g I start with a trivial thing (does not agree, have searched for the right part for a long time) – my ceiling/table lamp, photo follows. My O. lamp had the charm of a Turkmen cloning and had to be replaced. I now have a 5-flame halogen lamp with best dimmer fittings – thank God. As I said, photo follows and there is of course more to report … But, I don’t want to tell you everything v I’m sure we can benefit from each other in a row.

Dear towpers, with both my front- and rear-driven towing vehicle I mean to be able to find out that the profile height in train operation decreases so to speak `seeing eye ́. Does any of you have any idea how much rubber one or woman or tires in train operation leaves more on the road?! I would appreciate at least twice the solo operation – the triple would not surprise me.

Hello to all forums User! You have always helped me super so far… I am now faced with the question, which ball bearing should I buy? I accidentally destroyed a cage of a cone roller bearing when disassembled at a wheel brake! I have to replace this now! The caravan around which it is about, has a maximum mileage of 45km!!! But from 1985! Now I ask myself… should I change all ball bearings? That would be two… and four times per wheel brake, because I drive a tandem axle. E! I know which sizes I need! Inner bearing tapered roller bearings 30204 Outer bearing tapered roller bearings 30206 NUn is about… I have a maschine build shop around the corner! Drives the SKF bearings… the small one costs 30€ and the large 40€! That would then result for all wheel brakes 280€! A bit much! In the bay also wheel bearings are offered “thousand million” different… SKF… CX… and NONAME! Zb an offer promised 5 x 30204 = 15.90€ and 5 x 30206 = 18€…. that can be nothing or? Which warehouse manufacturers would you take? I didn’t want to spend too much! Would you change all the warehouses… or just the defective… the others are still TOP… no wear… had all times in your hand! Here the warehouse seats… front warehouse seat… of which the warehouse itself is defective!http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/3760/front warehouse seatus2.jpg defective warehouse:http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/7051/dsc00050jw0.jpg Rear warehouse (or just storage shell)http://im g441.imageshack.us/img441/4249/backside warehouse seat5.jpg Also how do I get this out? at the rear camp is only a small gap… arrgghh always problems! LG Chris

hello, in another article here the topic alu – gas was addressed, but basically had little to do with the eighing topic. a few questions remained however and I therefore took up the topic again. I have, after a very long hesitation blows the high costs, then nevertheless to 2 alu bottles, after they were offered on the internet for 75 euros each incl. shipping. moreover I could then still the 2 old steel bottles by handbill on the camping place quite well I’m also quite happy about it, you notice the difference in weight when balancing in and out already powerfully. with the total weight the weight difference may not play a significant role, but my cross thanked me already 🙂 I also had no problems with the filling or with the exchange so far. must say that I was in the Bavarian forest in winter AUSSCLIESSLY or since the last year in bad füssing. there was each on the campingpl. etching or e.g. with obi always alu-gas and always at the same price as that in the steel bottle. in the other article came from a colleague the wall, alu-gas is not available everywhere and it is above all significantly more expensive. meant probably not the bottle but the filling. I can not confirm both so far. experience with alu-gas in foreign countries, however, I don’t have. when I’m there, is summer and the existence on board has passed until now. greeting helmut

Hello guys, recently my camper has sealed with real nano varnish. GFK crayons are gone and the annoying roughing in the spring doesn’t have to be any more. I can clean my camper with the water hose.Super thing. Can I only recommend you. Gruss patch application procedure, test reports of the paint and the product is available at : www.nanotech-deutschland.de, the product is called Nano Ship 2 K paint. because at 180 degrees no car paint of the world is processed at 180 degrees. confirm each coater.

Hi, I’m new here. We want to get a caravan next year, after having spent a few years in rental caravans and having felt fundamentally comfortable with it. However, we have special needs, which still far from every caravan floor plan. My husband is 2.00 meters tall, to sleep he usually needs a double bed for himself, in which he is then sloping, so that he gets the necessary length of about 2.15 to sleep. We have a 6-jää Hough daughter, maybe want to take another child with you or also accommodate other adults at events – pure children’s bunk beds are missing. And I need a back-fitting constant sleeping environment, which should be 2.00 meters long and at least 80 cm wide – can also be a lower bunk bed. What fits us now? What else do you have to pay attention to? Thanks already for tips and help.

Hello experts, have read a lot about the Tempo100 approval. I am Swiss and will go to Sweden in summer with a caravan with German registration (rental caravan from Freiburg). As far as I know, you don’t have to have every car tested explicitly for Tempo 100. If the conditions are met, you can obviously drive the 100. But does this also apply to a car with CH train and D car?

Hello dear motor talker! I’m just back from a first test camp with my new-used Hymer eriba 520 Bj.8/93. I noticed that over the entrance door and in a top cabinet there are about 10×10 cm large bumps each. Didn’t notice before – but didn’t pay attention, because the wowa otherwise makes a really good impression. Is it just my first. How can I prevent the worst from happening? How do I seal it? How do I have to proceed to save my hymer? With friendly greetings Mathias

No, not with me, but with my Eifelland (please give up comments like: Was anyway clear).The following situation: with my 465 TF is on the right, at the end of the kitchen block a partition wall, to the back lying F. bed from the floor to the ceiling and correspondingly screwed to the kitchen block, in the floor on the inside wall and on the ceiling. I had already noticed in the last year `in the corner of the eye ́ that this partition, towards the outside wall, had a gap of approx. 1 mm. Well, long speech, short meaning – yesterday it was about 4 mm. What did I do? Immediately the three responsible screws were pulled after, whereby I had the impression that at least one screw had no definite grip `at the stop ́. But – gap was closed. After a further 150 km gap was again there: screws do not pack. I screwed one out and was almost a little surprised that it was a CONIC wood screw – here I think cylindrical screws could be better Basic to this `fixing technique ́: I mean to have read somewhere, that the structure of the wall is such, that behind the inner plastic plywood panels is inserted there inside a steel grid, that screwed screws should offer the support. But however, what to do in this situation? Cause research: The simplest and most likeable cause would probably be the: screw unfortunately no longer packs and a new one with an auxiliary solution. furniture (kitchen block) is not planned on the floor, thus the load on the screw connection in the side wall is too large and screw breaks out. What to do? Think of the following: Measuring (water scale) whether the floor and the verticals of the kitchen block / partition are exactly right angled to each other, because then the outer wall, because of lack of `support ́, should be slightly arched to the outside. If so, then only the said screw connections must ́packing ́ be made we rden. One thought about this would be to insert something like a spreader dowel into the inner wall (not for concrete, but for those who spleen/hook up behind the steel lattice. If the kitchen block does not show the right angle, then just stand perpendicularly, the rest as usual. What would the experts advise among you?

Hello, since I don’t know about caravans, I hope you can help me. Today we looked at a caravan that dates back to 2003, from the company Dethleffs 560 SK. This caravan corresponds to our ideas. The caravan is in a very good condition. Here my question: When I looked at the WoWa, I noticed at the front, on the right, that the side wall about 0.5 to 1 cm from its origin, opposite the left side The owner gave me the answer that this is just like that. In the previous where where would you have had that too. Is this normal ???? Since I have no idea, I would be happy if one of you could write me something about it. mfg Armin