Category: Wohnmobile & Wohnwagen Forum

Hi, I’m looking for an alarm system that is also suitable for old vehicles – unfortunately I haven’t found anything useful yet. I prefer: – GPS Tracker without contract binding – possibility to connect max 10 additional sensors (magent contacts e.g.) – with alarm call on 3 possible destination numbers I searched / Googled etc, but found nothing useful – did you find something useful? Disadvantage of GPS-supported systems (CARLOCK e.g.): most go to de n CAN BUS / diagnostic connection etc. -> did my old Ducato nich 😉 and I have only found providers with contract binding -> since now almost everyone has a 2t/partner/ twin card this is nonsense, I would like to pay only once for a device there are fixed systems, but are rather designed for fixed house use and thus either in reliability or even power consumption not suitable. E.g. this Olympia Protect would not be bad – but is obviously not reliable. R andbemerkung: I have seen and registered the existing tröts / physical protection from electronic / no, I don’t want to bother the parking lot with a hell sirene;-)

Hello in the forum, would like to join me as a camper with WW with a 3-piece BMW Bj. 2011 with trailer coupling. Question: is it right that BMW will automatically shut down the 12 V DC Dauerplus after 10 minutes when the ignition key is deducted? Wouldn’t it be ideal if I stayed with the car on the motorway or in a parking lot once? Does anyone have experience or a solution? With my Daimler the topic of Dauerplus is no problem, because a 100 Ah strong battery has no problems if it provides the power for the WW for some lighting, radio, toilet and faucet for one or two nights. BMW wants to prevent the discharge of the battery, but I have installed an E-module in the WW which switches off the battery voltage (duration plus) when the battery falls below 11.5 V DC. With friendly camper greetings The JeverPilz

Hello people, the work does not want to give me any information: how to remove the roof hood of the Truma Aventa roof climate? Guggenheim da: https://www.truma.com/…/ I would have set the picture here, but I have concerns about legal things. So: I want to remove the lid at this climate to clean the heat exchangers. The work does not give out any spare parts catalogues or other information….;o(Thank you in advance Hans

Hello, I have a small problem in my (self-developed) camper. I have installed a Votronic VBCS Triple (30/20/250) in the vehicle. So far I have charged the battery via shore current. Now I wanted to use the option of charging via the starter battery installed in the vehicle (my transit has only 1 battery, no additional battery). I have connected the necessary cable to the starter battery on + and the other end to the VBCS Triple into the 12 V start input. In addition, a D+ signal is needed. Since the transit does not deliver any more and I wanted to save myself the purchase of the Votronic D+ Simulator, I have installed a switch. So a second cable from the + starter battery via the switch into the D+ input of the VBCS Triple. I hope I could explain this so far intelligibly. I have now at the cable ends, which go into the VBCS Triple, the voltage measured and at both ends of the cable are about 12 V, I put the cables into the VBCS Triple. However, this one does not charge. The B2B lamp is off. Otherwise, no more lamps light up, except the solar light every 5 seconds, which is the normal state. I have no idea where I might have done something wrong here. Does anyone have an idea?

Ford Transit 96 KW Automatik EZ 03/24 Dethleffs 6615 , KM 7600 up-to-date: Since July the Ford breakdown service was needed several times, vehicle started (7x) no longer after 6 – 8 days parking without power supply, starter battery sinks below 10 V, workshop finds no faults (Dethleffs and Ford) and gives us back the vehicle, allegedly everything ok…. A week later again starter battery too empty to start the vehicle. Overall, the quality, also of the living space, is unsatisfactory. Hinges h not old, cabinet doors fell down. Sink paneling plastic breaks. We had imagined a new vehicle differently. Unfortunately, we must probably take other ways to proceed.

Hello, my 2 year old caravan ADRIA ADORA 472 PU has a Dometic fridge with 83 liters content. With the rotary knob you can adjust with the Automatic current, gas and 12 V. The Automatic ensures that always somehow with one of the three elements is cooled. Now – if I have neither 12V nor land current – it switches to gas, but after three unsuccessful ignition attempts it goes to fault and reports the error 50. This says that the gas bottle is empty and it renews this (ff But the bottle is full and the car is not oblique either. Air can actually not be in the line, after certain 20 ignition attempts – after the error has been deleted – the error message comes back every time. Whether gas arrives at the burner, I don’t know – one does not smell at the burner, but I think there is no gas. Tomorrow I will try to solve the mother at the entrance to the burner and see if one smells gas there, but that will be herbs. If I don’t get another helpful tip I will probably have to drive to Brittany on Sunday without gas operation, have only discovered today the lack. Greeting Avento16 heading unfortunately could not be changed anymore, correct = ( RMS 10.5 T )

Hello dear and nice Christmas I have a question and hope there is someone here who has already gained experience and who likes to continue. We bought a used Renault Master. This has a retrofitted Webasto Thermotop 5 heater (water). This is designed for a operation up to 120min. I would like to convert it to a heater for continuous operation, because we want to expand it to a camper. The heater, which according to webasto kan n, is the Thermotop 5RV Classic. I don’t think there’s a big difference between the two devices. Maybe it just hangs on the wire harness or even the software. My question: has someone already gained experience with this upgrade? What needs to be changed, can I do it myself? I’ve already read on the software topic that you can probably extend the height adjustment to over 1500m. Does anyone have experiences? Thank you in all F and still have nice holidays!! Love greetings Simon

Hello, I have a question about the crosscamp more precisely about the Toyota Proace or the Opel Zafira. It’s about the 178 hp version, I read that the Toyota has a locked top speed of 160 kilometers per hour. Is that true and also true for the Opel? Another question concerns the registration, the Opel is registered as a camper and the Toyota as a normal car. There are differences about the car tax, can someone tell me about it? t ef f i t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i o n t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on t i on

Hello, have a question again: We decided we want to buy a camping bus. Now the question arises a VW or from Mercedes the Marco Polo, what do you think about it. Thank you in advance. de roll

Hello everyone, I’m just about to get a WoWA, which can then go with me to Switzerland in the summer. Now I have heard from the potential seller that he has already heard of a maximum caravan size, which must not be exceeded when entering Switzerland. That I should check again before I buy the car from him. I have not found anything on the Internet about this, but you always know everything 😉 Wagens: Knaus Südwind 590 TK Thank you for your hints and information already in advance! Best regards, Andy