Category: Wohnmobile & Wohnwagen Forum

Hi, you certainly know all these 3 or 4 block blocks with shut-off cocks, whose hidden assembly is often criticized by camping “specialist” magazines. And, hand on heart!, who of us closes off the neatly? I don’t! And that for good reason! I didn’t know so far, but I did all right (hopefully you too). I found the following article entitled to quote in another forum. Quotation: In your controllers there is a so-called safety valve, which for the purpose This is necessary because a gas bottle basically works like a steam cooker! Inside there is a liquid, our gas, which, however, does not boil at 100 degrees PLUS, but at 42 degrees MINUS! The further the temperature goes out over this boiling point, the higher the vapour pressure! One can say – per 10 degrees temperature increase the pressure increases by a good 2 bar! Therefore me This is normal and has nothing to do with the filling level! In summer a propane bottle can reach about 12 bar, a butane bottle (e.g. GAZ blue) about 3-4bar. Since we can’t do anything with this high pressure, we have to lower it by a pressure reducing valve to our system pressure of 30 or 50mbar! So- now you have cooked your coffee in the morning and it is summer and also the refrigerator runs on electricity – so – K A GAS CONSUMPTION! This morning there were 50 mbar in the line and now it is 20 degrees warmer and the car is standing in the sun… There would be now the 50mbar of this morning, PLUS 4-5bar extension on it!!! Almost compressed air strength!!! Since your gas system is designed only for low pressure, the sensitive valves would damage your devices. Sure? Inside gas – Outside air – it must be allowed to rotate! So logically contain a seal of GUMMI or silicone! This is exactly what happens through the safety valve IN your gas pressure reducers! Mostly a small orange plastic nipple! I believe everyone knows! If everyone who has now thought about it would have to find out now that in the gas box under normal conditions gas MUST BE!!!! There is no error here!!! If it gets only a single degree warmer, these valves have already opened several times and at 100mbar the pressure is released for safety reasons. food! So there is not in the event of an incident, but IN NORMALFALL gas in it!!! If there were none, what would be broken! Therefore, ALL ZÜNDSOURCES are forbidden, no matter whether weak current or 220 volt. A gas-air mixture becomes ignitable from about 2% gas in the air part! That’s freaky little people!!! More than 10% is the mixture already too fat and does not ignite anymore! In the gas box therefore only lamps and switches, which carry the EX sign for explosion protected can be used! Everything else is here absolutely out of place and dangerous! A spark is enough and your beloved caravan is minimally a convertible… I hope everyone has noticed now! In the gas box must stand gas in warm weather, or it is something broken! So it is completely normal if someone opens his gas box and smells gas at noon! Everything OK! Nothing broken!!! Incidentally, who closes his shut-off valves IN the caravan and believes he does something good, errs tremendously! If these valves are to be the prescribed Printtla These valves should not be closed in normal operation! Those who are afraid of gas – bottle too! Where nothing can get out, it is the end anyway! These valves serve only one purpose! If you are on the way, I have only one stove, a fridge and a heater. Let’s take the fridge is defective. Gas outlet! If you had no shut-off valves, you could not have the valves. You don’t cook and don’t heat! So you have the possibility to put the defective device out of operation and continue to operate the REST! As this has to be done for each device, in case more than one consumer is connected in the car, for each ONE shut-off valve is prescribed! So simple is that! Whoever closes these valves, puts an important safety device of his car, which he paid for before, out of function! So NO SECURITY WINE, SONDER D AS ACCOUNT !!! So now I have written a lot and hopefully some of it prevented any nonsense with your gas plants to do! Laziness also has its good sides! Lazily and satisfied greets Franjo001

Good evening, I would like to install in my T5 with additional battery (80Ah) a fridge (12V and 230V without an automatic switchover) a small inverter (for laptop or mobile phone charging) and still a little bit of lighting (LED) now everything should be supplied by the battery and sobalt 230V are available the refrigerator should be operated on 230v and the remaining consumers over a rectifier with 12V made me a few thoughts and drawn a plan see picture now me in question this is so possible or is there possibly. a device that can do everything and I don’t have to build it myself or what do you think better? find out to the plan : K1 relay, which attracts when the battery G2 (via K2) has been disconnected and 230V are available via the relay then the refrigerator and the rectifier G1 is supplied with 230V K2 relay, pulls on sobalt 230V are available and separates the battery G2 from the consumers X1 and the refrigerator from the 12V supply and gives the Freig Abe for K1 Mfg

Hello, our refrigerator in the caravan cools at 220 volts super, also it starts slightly in gas operation, but no cooling (although the flame burns – blue window glows inside). What can this be? mfG

Hello Camper! I wanted to introduce myself here as we are proud owner of a camper since today. Of course I made the typical mistake first to buy and then to write something into the forum – but no matter. The camper is an aged (1993er) Carthago Abakus Malibu on a T4 frame.er has now 88Tkm down (fits also from the checkheft) and 2 previous owners. From the optical condition he is very well maintained and drives (only miserablely slow – at under 8 0PS and an empty weight of 2.4T unfortunately also normal). Many greetings BB

Hello, looking for a protection letter for our oldi (Arnold), the “Alte Leipziger” unfortunately could not offer such a one, we have of course come across the ADAC and https://www.jimdrive.com/…/?…. Does anyone know this provider and can report from experience? Compared to the ADAC, the price/performance is probably unbeatable, isn’t it?

Hello everyone, I am almost desperate. I have been looking for a suitable train car for my caravan Knaus Südwind 550TKM ( 1500kg zGG ) for weeks. At the moment I drive a VW Passat. Since we are 2 adults 2 children ( with pram!!! ) and both in summer holidays with the caravan, but also in winter without caravan in ski holidays we have certain demands. Due to my little experience with team-riding I attach importance to an ESP additional function ( team stabilizer ung ) Unfortunately I haven’t found a model yet that really fits. An example: The VW Tiguan is really great, but with the trunk and two children we don’t get far. I also find the new Audi ́s great, but unfortunately nothing for my wallet. BMW X3 has the problem with the trunk again. Mitsubishi Outlander has no ESP additional function….. ……. and so that day goes on from day to day………….. Which manufacturers offer these ESP additional functions? As far as I am informed: Opel, Mercedes, VW, BMW, Honda and Ford in the new Kuga. Two cars I have fit to date: the new Insignia Sports Tourer and the Honda CR-V? With Opel I have already fallen on my nose 7 years ago and the Honda doesn’t leave much positive here in the forum. I am really grateful about every info, every idea. The only answer I don’t want to hear is… a passat 🙂 Greetings

I want to go to Amsterdam and if I am already there I would like to drive to the North Sea coast, e.g. Zandvoort (since this is the closest) I will arrive there so against the evening hours and would like to spend there 1 night in the car to “sleep out” the way home. But now I know that sleeping in the car in the Netherlands is forbidden and very expensive. Does anyone like that look at motorway roads is just as forbidden? Bzw. someone knows “insidertips” where you can drive to Amsterdam. gendwo between Amsterdam-Zandvoort can sleep in the car without any problems? I wrote a few campsites but they wrote that it is not allowed…

Hello together, we have ordered a Hobby Premium 495 UL with some extras at the end of last year. Among other things also a roof air conditioning system by Dometic from the accessories list of Hobby. Now, however, I have read that there are different large models, which are used depending on the construction length. But now I am a bit stubborn, because in the price list of Hobby there is only one price for all caravan types. Can someone tell me here which Dometic for Hobby ex factory verb because I’m afraid that they’ll build a sub-sized air conditioning system, where only a lukewarm little air out of the slits gets thanks and greetings, fasy

Hello, I have the problem ds I want to have more water at the shower, so a larger shower head mounted, and swups, more water but no more pressure, as far as clear, have a pressure water system. installed is a shurflo 7 the King with 7 liters the min and1,5 bar, so I thought a larger pump and the problem is fixed, said, a brought pump with, 19 liters the minute and max 5,1 bar. The water pressure is now absolutely great, as at home, however come t my water system to its limit in terms of pressure. now my question, why do I owe the good pressure, by the pressure increase itself or by the flow rate? Since I want to get a new pump, I would like to buy directly the right many thanks already. Josh

Hello together, Would you like to install an automatic gas bottle switchover system for winter camping in our Womo. Now I have two questions: 1. Can you operate an automatic switchover system (e.g. in summer) with just one gas bottle? 2. Which system would you recommend, Truma, Multimatic? Thank you for the information