Category: Wohnmobile & Wohnwagen Forum

Hello, we bought a caravan (built in 2004) which has a 100 plate. I have read that this must also be entered in field 22 in the vehicle registration. But now, because of the year of construction, our caravan still has a very old vehicle registration (from the previous owner) where the field 22 “size designation of the tires or front”. Does anyone know where to find the entry in an old vehicle registration?

Hello, dear community, I am the owner of a KNAUSS south wind, age 14 years. 2 years ago I came without problems through the TÜV – except for the gas test. Somewhere the line was leaking, so I did not get the gas badge. No problem, because I only drive to the south, at campsites with electricity connection; I simply do not need gas. Now the TÜV is standing again, and I would like to get the gas badge, i.e. I would like to have the line fixed beforehand. My questions: – What costs do I have to reckon with for the line control or repair? – Does anyone have a tip where the leak could probably be located? (I know, an “optimistic question”, but maybe there are so typical “leak jobs” at caravans or at KNAUSS south wind….) Thank you for your answers!

Hello, since I recently weighed my living room for the first time when translating from the winter quarter I had to find out that I have a massive overweight problem for a long time. Well, I always drove around with full water tanks, toilets and various stuff which I don’t always need and pay attention to even loading so that there were no problems so far. However, with a check it would not have been possible to load into the car. After extensive research here and via Google the opinions on the total mass are very different. To the own question my car may already weigh 1700 kg. Since the axle load is also registered with 1700 kg and the support load of 100 kg is attributed to the car (doesn’t lie on the axle), can the car then weigh off on the wagon 1800 kg or not weigh? Differently asked, if you have to weigh on the mobile scale and the scale shows 1700 kg axle load on I am then in the green area or can only be 1600 kg because the support load is calculated on it? I know how complicated it is expressed :

Moinsen, I have an understanding question about the operation of the 12V network in the trailer, which the SuFu could not answer. Please note: In my question it will not be about the 12V supply over the towing vehicle; that is not a topic and should not be included in the considerations. Also I do not want to buy a new electric block. Here the actual condition: caravan Knaus Azur, BJ 1991. As standard equipped with a 220V/12V converter. No battery. Some lamps and the water pumps run over 12V (so far from the converter supplied by land power). Some lamps, refrigerator and the Truma-Vent run over 220V. For the converter unfortunately, no technical data are available. The following is before: installation of a battery. Installation of a charger 220V/12V installation of a solar system. After the conversion – so I imagine that the 12V consumers should be supplied with the converter after the 12V has arrived. The 12V power supply is not supposed to be supplied by the 12V switch over the battery.

Hello together, after 3 months of service, the drum brake sits firmly on a wheel of the trailer. Driving back and forth didn’t do anything and the hammer hit the wheel hub nothing. So my lay knowledge on this topic is exhausted (but extended by the knowledge that the hand brake does NOT attract). Does anyone else have any further advice to help themselves? Otherwise: Do the ADAC pan helpers also help with heavy-moving trailers or is only a car covered by the ADAC protection? Quite helpfully: how far can I drag a two-axle trailer with a fixed wheel through the area. Thank you for your advice.

Hello, this has probably been answered somewhere, but I can’t find it. My question: I bought a car with which the starter battery is paired with a power supply battery, i.e. they are apparently also charged together by the alternator. If I now have a charger attached to one of the two as normal as with every car, are both charged simultaneously and evenly? I can also decouple the batteries with a separate switch and charge each one individually, would that be better, or worse? Maybe to the connection: the start battery is normally connected as standard. The power supply battery on the plus side of the start battery is connected with a “comic” part also with a plus of the power supply battery. On the minus side, the power supply battery is simply on the bulk at a screw from the driver’s seat. I am not a battery master and also no electrician, I’m simply concerned about whether I’m better overall, so coupled charge, or rather individually.