Category: Wohnmobile & Wohnwagen Forum

The last thing I thought about looking at Youtube videos about camping bus Individual expansions, you could start a rental of such extended camping buses. Due to the current situation camping is always more in demand than ever and therefore the demand for cheap camping buses should exist even with younger people. I would consciously do without too much luxury in the vehicles and keep the equipment consciously quite spartan. So for me neither television nor Internet for camping holidays in nature. I would also use used base vehicles to keep the financial use as low as possible. However, I have no idea what the equipment costs then. Then of course there are also official requirements. I find these self-developed camping buses somewhat iconic. However, since I am working and by the way pay off a condominium, I can not make a year on Wild-Vanlife. Such a camping bus and then because of the main job can not use it so often, is also stupid. Stand around, costs tax and insurance so I can rent this thing if I don’t need it myself. Is that possible, or is it not financially worth it?

Hi, I was at the Dekra for HU today. Failed since refueling brake without function. The examiner sat down to test in the car, briefly hit – max 5kmh, full braking, no function. Drawbar completely pushed into each other. I called home, WW dealer. He already moaning and said “They never get this, because of the return automatic the brake only works from about 10kmh. Tell that to the examiner!” I into the car. 20kmh, full braking, caravan brake, tire squeak. A Iso back to the Dekra, the examiner tells everything. Then he went in to the phone and came out after several phone calls with badge. He then said something about “You also have a Winterhoff 3000 Antishlinger clutch and the WW weighs now empty about 1200kg, can also because the brake does not immediately address. ” Now I am of course unsure. Should I have the brake set? Or is that so correct that the brake does not pack in the low range?

Servus, I would like to replace the lead acid battery under the passenger seat with a lithium battery. The following situation: During the ride, start and second batteries are charged in parallel. Separated from a simple separation relay, so that the first battery is not discharged from the second battery in the stand. When camping with mains power supply I have a Fraron charger (20A, two charging outputs). The original Westfalia charger has said goodbye before longer. the LiMa with max 90A and 13,8 – 14,5V, depending on what is running on the side. And the Fraron charger charges with 14.4V, max 20A. Both voltages are too high for a LiFePO4 battery. Now I have only found charging booster with solar function etc for 150€+ and am not even sure if this is the right thing for me. Therefore I wanted to ask if there is simply a voltage converter or something that is hanging directly in front of the second battery and which regulates the charging voltage to 13.2V ( On the battery is 13.2V Normarlspannung). I hope there is a relatively simple solution. Thank you!

Hello, I’m looking for a well-functioning cooler for the car, and would like to know your experience. I’ve already had an electronic box for 12 volts with built-in pelet lemt. However, it only achieved 20° under ambient temperature and therefore mMn does nothing. Also an absorber box for 230V/12V/gas (car fridge principle), same problem… That’s why I tend immo to a 12V compressor box. Has someone experience with it that he can report. LG

Moin together, we are thinking about a bag awning, so for short trips, with two side walls. In particular the Obelink Zip. Well my question, they seem to be a little flexible in their bag, how much kink in the Kederschiene tolerate the bag awnings in general? See picture. We would like to have them from behind to forward to the bow (green line). Or does it actually only go from red to red? Thanks and greeting, Ulf

In the hobby with bunk beds the windows cannot be opened completely with the beds (out climbing protection toddlers). So at first glance I did not find out how to deactivate or remove this barrier. Does anyone know that? PS (question is “how”; not “why”.

Hello Together, I have a factory-side Eberspächer Airtronic M2 D4A in my crafter. Unfortunately, the warm air guide is extremely impractical for a camper. There are only two outflows under and behind the handbrake. The distribution of the warm air inside the vehicle is thus practically non-existent especially in the area under the bed in the rear. Now I think, with corresponding 60mm air hoses, to distribute the warm air more conveniently in the interior. (We are talking about approx. 4-5m hose On the Internet you can find videos of people who “make it easy” and usually distribute hose lines with turns and everything in the vehicle and comments of people who advise against it because of counterpressure… it is like always: 5 people, 10 opinions The user manual for Eberspächer is silent. In the BDA stands to Zhema counterpressure only that the heating shuts down in case of overheating… Surprise My idea would be to have a controllable pipe fan In this way, I would reduce the back pressure in the air duct to the rear and thus achieve a more even distribution of the warm air compared to the short outflow in the cab. I would turn off the warm air either directly at the sthz or under the hand brake lever. (I have to look at this in peace)1 What do you say about this? Mission Impossible or sensible approach?

Hello together, currently have the following setup: – Starter battery AGM – Board battery 2x150Ah Epsilon SuperB (*) – Votronic 121270 Charging booster incl. display (Charge Controll 1248) – Victron MultiPlus 2 3000 – Victron Smart BatteryProtect 12/24V 65A (the wisdom of the last conclusion does not seem to be this part) (*) Per LIN connected to the KFG of the Crafter. This means full integration into the energy management of the vehicle. To monitor the board battery I currently have the App from Epsilon to the Ve With the LCD display from Votronic for the charging booster I sold something. It can “only” display the voltages of the onboard and starter battery and the charging power of the charging booster. It would be nicer if I got current and voltage, at best also the charging state of both batteries indicated. A protection function against deep discharge would not be necessary. Or it would be useful to have an all-in-one component that also replaces or complements the Smart Battery Protect. k so short and short: What could you recommend to me for battery monitoring? Thank you already in advance for your input

Hello, since last year I have been wearing the idea of giving our caravan a tank display for the fresh water tank. I pushed the project before me again and again, until I finally got to realize it. Now an indicator for fresh water and wastewater tank from it The circuit and the sensors are already finished and tested. The control panel is (unfortunately) still in pressure. With some luck I can complete the whole next week. Pictures of it follow. If anyone should be interested in replicating something like this, I would like to include the construction instructions in the file attachment here. This should be done by anyone who can handle a soldering iron. About pictures of your “variants” and/or improvement/additional suggestions … Addendum Since the link with the file attachment no longer works: LINK GreetingNoGolfPS: clearly you could also realize something like this with ICs, MOSFET … But in this simple form it remains also for the interested I think it is a good idea for the Commission to take a decision.

Hello, I’m sitting on Corsica on vacation with my T5 camper, in which is built a shore power connection with charging ditch for the supply battery. Also a 230V inverter. So the day before yesterday I had the problem that when a consumer switched over I probably broke the inverter, which is exactly there I can not judge. Turn it on still does, but goes on fault, sissions in the wiring are i.o…. Soo well, then I don’t use it anymore.. Then close I stop at shore current, I don’t need an inverter. Now I notice, when I touch the coupling that this is slightly under voltage.., I plug off the shore current, everything again i.o. ?? Does anyone have an idea how this can come about? It is all grounded, the cables are properly connected, the system worked already 4 years without problems ! I have meanwhile completely disconnected the inverter ! Can the problem of lack of supply of the shore current socket coming from the campsite ? Vllt. bad earthing ?? Do you think it is worrying to use the land current anyway ? The battery load, the charger shows no errors and does not become excessively hot … About Andtworten I would be very happy! Thank you !