Blog

  • Golf VI or Audi A4 B8

    Hello together, since my current car is not really useful I have to buy something better (eg FIAT GP Bj.05 – 77PS). Since I do not want to make the same mistake 2x, I thought that I will borrow some money to buy something qualitatively better.In my search the following vehicles were in the eye: – VW Golf VI 1.4 TSI (122hp or 160hp) – Audi A4 B8 (160hp petrol) Of course you can hardly compare the cars themselves, but I would like to give you an opinion requirements: – >100hp – No family – Sporty driving (as best as possible with the Fiat GP) – Sparfuchs (only spend money when it’s worth it/ fun) – zZ. Viehfahrer (>70km/day) – will soon be on ~20km/day redu. – much better quality than with the Fiat GP Of course I’m also happy about other suggestions, compare, experience or anything else that can help me with the selection.

  • Lots of KM or a lot of loss of value?

    Good morning, as the purchase of a new car is due, I would like to discuss whether a car with many KMs is not simply more economical because of its small purchase price than the counterpart with few. The following theory: Since I like big cars, which are year 1999 – 2004 have 300hp and are of Audi, BMW or Mercedes, it is not easy, in the spoilt of choice. You see again and again copies with 250,000km around 700€. Between flashes times a few with 70.0 00km, which then cost exactly 14,000€. But maybe you should choose the KM giants, because better honest 250,000km than fake 70,000. Then comes the 7,000€, which one saves at 250tkm, should not eat up, purely theoretically, within the next 5 years. Since the value does not fall much more, there are again fewer costs to be recorded. My current BMW E32 has just 403,000km down, the engine was the last problem he had. Like door lock, seat heating or the petrol pump. What is already certain, the current gas system is taken over into the next one, because certain components are wear-free and save about. 1200€. This means that the next one costs about 2000€ to build it on gas. When changing the operating costs from 20 to about 12€ / 100km, which amotizes the conversion already from 25,000. Greetings Lon

  • W 203 Limo or A4 B6 Avant Diesel?

    The two of them are already mentioned in the title. At the Audi (only Avant) both available diesel engines are in question and at the Mercedes (only Limo) of the 200, 220 and possibly also the 270CDI are in question. At the moment my tendency is towards Mercedes because of a steering chain and the avoidable longer running time. However, the rust reports in the W 203 pre-MOPF generation scare me a bit off. I find the 1.9TDI somehow e twas undermotorized, just like the 200CDI with 116hp. On the other hand, the 2.5TDI and the 270CDI will probably cost me too much in the tax. I would be very happy about a few (experience) reports!

  • Does anyone have a tip on how to minimize exam anxiety?

    I know it’s a stupid question but I have my motorcycle exam next Monday! Unfortunately, I have the talent to record tests because I start with high blood pressure and tremors and I would like to avoid that or at least reduce that! one day before the theory exam I had a motorcycle lesson! but with the examination idea in mind, I can’t even stand still at the traffic light! I know I can! Had passed the theory also with 0 mismatches! now, a week before the practical it starts again…. :/ I can only remember my car driver’s license exam too well 13 years ago…. that I passed that is still a miracle for me because to the exam I drove like a dooger At the exam for my training at that time I stuffed myself with valerian!I think that is not conducive to leading a motorcycle Basically I am not afraid, on the contrary! ie stupid thoughts around in the head like e.g. “if I don’t pass the money, what can’t I do so well?! that’s definitely what is being tested” things like that….. please don’t laugh at me

  • Cadillac Seville 99 Cooling water loss

    Hello dear US community, I now have another problem with my thick. I had for a long time the problem that it consumes about 1 liters of cooling water on 700 km. Was therefore already in three workshops and they meant they did not have a CO2 tester ;-(. Well, because they took it up and generally looked for a leak only found nothing. They then all three started looking for the oil but I told them that they didn’t recognize this with the engine. So I told them the erz Her opinion on this was a shoulder twitch and only meant they had to watch it. Well, thank you for how long I should wait there? So I got on the AB today and first drove nice and meaningfully about 25 km and then kicked the thick on the brush ;-))) happy the sound ;-))) but what should I say almost a quarter tank procedure and the temperature indicator never went over the middle. On the way back I still did it l tried to get the tempomat in at 230 Kmh about 5 min then the Porsche was in front of me and I had to reduce my speed again. But still nothing with the temperature. Then I drove out at the rest area and tried to squeeze together the thick hose which goes long before the engine, went about 1/4 to squeeze together. So dear community how and what should I do now??? Well I never noticed any white smoke when starting. Is that my bonnet quite wobbly at 200 kmh, but it was hard to have checked extra. Ps. the water problem in the trunk I have not yet been able to test since it has not rained until now.

  • Mustang 2006 Whipple Supercharger HELP!!!

    I converted my 06s, manually switched Mustang GT to Whipple Intercooled Supercharger and now look for someone in D who can tune the part or have a SCT X3 or Diablo Tuner with Whipple software on offer. Software available, but can’t be set to vehicle. Can download software, but immobilizer blocks everything else.When I recharge “normal” software, engine starts with Whipple immediately, but runs really fat. Error either in SCT Tuner or my motor control unit does not recognize the tuner, Whipple was previously installed on other cars. In the USA there are a lot of tuning companies that offer either software or SCT tuners with Whipple Tune, but most deliver only within the USA, have contacted in D companies, which I don’t want to mention here, these companies with impressive advertising and websites do not even need to respond to email requests…. At the moment I don’t mind that I am the car n I can drive, it is no convertible weather anyway, but also this winter (hopefully) will be over soon. So, who can help and can give me a RESPONSIBLE and competent contact person in Germany. If the vehicle has to be brought, it may also be BENELUX or in eastern France.

  • Porsche Cayman/Boxster (981) or Audi TTRS (8J)

    Hello, I would like to finally buy my first sports car. It should be a used car from 2013 with max. 70,000 km and manual manual transmission. Here you have to invest around 35 to 50k €. The Porsche Cayman has been my dream car since it came on the market, but the current boxster also appeals to me. As the only competitor only the TTRS could assert itself. Now my question: The car is supposed to be my only car. I drive around 15,000 to 17,500 km i m year. The car should be relatively reliable. Both have their mistakes, but I can’t find a final hanger to steer me in one direction or another. What do you think? Thank you and greetings

  • Accident damage covered up

    Hey together, I’m not sure in which subforum it belongs exactly.Now to my problem: I bought a vehicle from private (2nd owner) about 6 months ago (incl. standard ADAC contract) The seller gives to the vehicle is accident-free, only the threshold was painted once by the 1st owner and know also from the 1st owner no related accident damage. The days was cleaned by me the vehicle and so on and I noticed some subtle inconsistencies n: – rear bumper has been repainted, on an edge on the wheel run is a clear paint drop – rear wheel run on the passenger side does not match color slightly silk matt – rear wheel run on the driver’s side is a light spray fog in the door edge – it was not an original rear silencer mounted – and much more … Next week the paint thickness is measured and the insurance is contacted for any pre-damage! Through some research I found out that the r 1. The owner had advertised the car as accident-free. Now to my question: If my suspicion is really confirmed, do I have any rights? Can I demand a depreciation? Because giving back would not be an alternative, since already over 800€ were invested in conversion costs… I would be happy about an answer from you.

  • BMW X3 3.0d or Mazda CX-5 ?

    Hi guys, I’m thinking about changing to an SUV (due to new generation). Max. budget would be 25k. Since I’m a lot on the road, a diesel would be top. (also because of the torque ) Was fixed on the BMW X3 30d with 218ps, however, I saw the new CX-5 at the Mazda dealer. It looks fine as well. BMW X3 3.0d (e83) + 6 cylinders diesel with 3 liters displacement + Sufficient power with 218 hp and smooth running -> possibly later chipping + childhood diseases far and wide ironed – Prei s (25k for nen used) – Interior / instruments look very old Mazda CX-5 + new car for 25k (guarantee) + latest technology + optically very appealing + interior and instruments very nice – performance “only” 175 HP – possibly childhood diseases, as new on the market What would you take?

  • Used cars up to 600€ / 15tkm per year / cheap in maintenance

    Moin people, now that I’ve been thinking more about buying a car for a few weeks and I’ve been informed on the internet, I wanted to contact you I’m looking for a car that is in the price region between 500€ and 600€ (if totally convincing also up to 7,000 €). Monthly I hope that I can get out with 250€-300€ (120€ insurance and 130€ fuel?) Mainly I would drive a car every day about 60 km to work and back, so jä hrlich almost 50tkm. Of these 70% are motorway and 30% are city. The whole thing in the vicinity of Hamburg (there should also be the car nearby (100km). Important to me are above all low maintenance costs and reliability. A lot of PS or similar players are really not important to me, but I would like to be able to overtake a truck on the highway The question that mainly asks me is whether I should rather look for cars that are still very new (built in 2010 or younger) and have a few kilometers down, such as the Hyundai i10, Citroen C1, …., or if I should look for older cars with possibly more kilometers on the speedometer, which are then more solid. What do you think? The Mazda here would be an example of a young car with a few kilometers. Only the car was from the beginning a low budget car. So is it worth buying such a car or should I rather look for an older one, which was sometimes much more expensive?http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=246281 415&asrc=st的sr What do you have in mind when you read this car profile? Thank you for your efforts! Smitie