Hello, unfortunately I did not find any threads matching my request, so I open a new one. Before a few basic informations: The car is a BMW 520d F11, BJ 2017, 50,000 km just used bought, according to previous owner (serious!) so far no problems with the battery. So, I have said car, because I drive little due to corona at the moment and because I have “played” with standing car on the new vehicle “(Settings etc.) connected the charger ( At the charging points in the engine room). When I wanted to see if I could clamp it off in the evening, the LED 5 (analysis) lit up at the CTEK. So I left it on overnight. The next day the device showed LED 3 (bulk). I then stuck it off because I would have needed the car, but it was different. Then I connected the CTEK again one day later and now it shows after about 1 hour LED 2 (soft start). That all seems illogical to me … Did someone have an ide e, what could be involved with it? Thank you very much!!!
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Car purchase advice
Hello for the first time) I’m new to the forum and now create my second topic since not so many answers came from the first one. So it’s about me wanting to buy a new car (doesn’t have to be a new car) I’m talking about the following points that play a rose role: He should have over 170 ps maximum 200/220ps No 1.5 tons empty weight petrol (would have been desired n vacuum) Coupe – small cars would be preferred At least n 2008 bj budget is around the 20,000 € My first thanks would be n renault clio rs have been, yet I wanted to hear the opinion of other users or would also be open to alternative suggestions. I thank you already for your answers. Mfg
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BMW, Mercedes or Hybrid?
I’m looking for a new car. My idea is, a very long-lasting and reliable car. The choice will meet an annual car, I will buy the only one from March 2013 For the current selection, the following models are available for me: BMW 118 d Efficient Dynamics Edition Opel Astra 1.7 cdti ecoflex Mercedes-Benz A 180 BlueEFFICIENCY (new model) I have nearly 2000€ saved for the car purchase, future-oriented sprite-saving it should be. Car mainly for short distances, so a petrol is probably long-lasting. What would you recommend?
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Share vehicle with independent partner – allowed?
So far, my fiancée and I have both been pendling far to work, they 45 KM easy, I 65 km easy. For them, vehicles are medium to purpose, for me also hobby. She has a 2016 Renault Twingo, I have a Seat Ibiza 6L as a winter car and a Megane 3 RS as a summer car, because I do not want to drive >30 TKM annually with the Megane. She has now made herself on 01.03. and therefore “pends” only 15 KM easy. She must now at the beginning probably Fah If she were now employed normally, I would simply exchange cars with her, since we would both simply state 30 cents/KM as advertising costs regardless of the actual costs. You would drive the short way more often with the Megane, then I would use the Twingo and the Ibiza could be sold. Is such a constellation also legally possible if she is independent? She wants to keep the book in order to prove that she is travelling >50% in business (is she definitely)? I don’t think that is allowed, because the costs would not be clean to separate with reasonable effort. The fuel costs of the Megane would be almost twice as high as with the Twingo… Have you already had experiences with such a constellation or any other idea? Greetings
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Question to the tax professionals: Travel book or 1% regulation?
Hello, I have read in the forum once but found no answer for my specific case. I have a company car (Passat 2.0 TDI / 190PS) to the BLP of 61,000€. The leasing rate due to all kinds of GK discounts is only 600€ gross. There is also everything there: tires, maintenance etc. in principle all inclusive. In addition, there are fuel, insurance, tax and small stuff like disc clear etc.. I can not accurately quantify these costs. I drive about 40,000 km a year, of which about 40.000 km 2x50km daily journeys to work (250 days x 100km = 25,000km). Furthermore, I use the car for about 5,000km private. Rest (10.000km) are on duty. My share of the service decreases rather than that it increases. In addition, the shortest route (39km) from place of residence to place of work is taken into account with the payroll fee 50km for the faster route (already recognized by the FA). My tax class is 5 / top tax rate (42%). The following approach: Due to the fact that I currently tax 1% of the BLP and still 0.03% for the journey to work, I have nothing of the discount, which is reflected in the leasing rate. My taxation currently looks like this: + money-worthy advantage company car (1,0 % regulation) = 610,00 € + money-valued advantage driving costs (61000 * 0,03% * 39 km) = 713,00 € = total money-value advantage to be taxed = 1323,00 € A travel book for me?
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Glow plugs K30
Servus once again… After spending some time searching through the forum and not finding a satisfactory answer, a question about the frequently addressed glow candles: I have a Chevrolet K30 6,2l ex-army with original pre-glow system and would NOT like to convert it to manually!…. This one, the colder it became, was always shclechter start, until he did not want at all. (With start pilot still in case of emergency) It is certainly due to the glow candles. .. So I checked this time and found out the following: I have on all supply lines to the candles 6V when glowing. The voltage is switched on during pre-glowing always kuez, falls off and comes back again. One hears the realais again and again click. I don’t know if this is normal, at least the shocks are charged and that with 6V. Shouldn’t that be 12V over a certain period of time? Now I got new candles here at a dealer: – according to my vehicle verka If he took me from ACDelco 8#60G candles. Since my “specialist screwdriver” has his workshop on his way home, I stopped there to borrow a long, suitable nut to pull the candles. He then immediately said that these are the wrong candles. They are for the civilian version and not for mine. They would break directly again. That would be seen at the too wide plug connector…… So, now my question: –> Which candles do I really need and what can I do with this? Thank you….. Oh, I’m creating a page on which I document my stuff here for myself and posterity. I’ve already installed a banner from the forum. Below is the link…
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Chevrolet K30 –> Rollbar
Servus @ all The work has managed, my toy is dry in a heated hall and I have already removed the interior of the cabin…. The plan: Demonstrate everything except for frame and drive, radiate sheet metal parts and then paint in robust matte black. Frame and paintable drive parts by hand with tape paper and co. and then bring brush and roll into a durable condition. ……. Here I am, at the roll bar. Since I have found the most diverse statements in the net, a question to those who have a clue! What I think now!: The overroar is considered a fixed load as long as it does not change the external dimensions of the vehicle to the side. To the top it may not look ???? beyond the cabin! I want to bend in the company two 80s pipes in the form of the cab and one after the other with a Flat iron should be screwed as a foot to the loading surface edge. To the rear, a foot made of 80 tubes should serve as a slanting support on each side and also be screwed to the top of the loading surface edge. Here, the recording holes held in the loading surface wall should be used (don’t know what they actually are for). On the supports, a kind of handrail should run from 80 tubes up to the rear holes. On the top of the handle, 4 headlights, of course seperately switched. because from your experience something against it and is the whole really admission / registration free? Add a rough picture of the planned handle! Thank you!
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Commuter seeks car – 45,000 km a year
Hi everybody, I’m looking for a solution and a car. We are currently travelling from Augsburg to Munich for about 170 km every day as commuters and come with various private trips to about 45,000 km per year. A year ago we bought an annual car (Ford Focus Tournament MK 3) for about 17,000€. According to the current Schwacke list he has a sales value of about 15,000 €. What annoys us about the car is the high effort for the inspection, which additionally every 20,000 km On the one hand, I am looking for an ideal solution for the next few years. I have already come up with a few: – Drive a car to death and then buy a new annual car – Sell a car in the rhythm of the year and buy a new annual car – Long-term rental – Leasing In addition, I am looking for a car that has a long service life, as well as low maintenance costs. returned is nice-to-have) – Combi or spacious alternative – Price: max. 19,000€ (for the first two variants) – Air conditioning – No Dacia, Peugeot, Citrön or Renault Puh… was a lot… I hope you can help me. PS: Moving to Munich is no alternative 😉
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Car for commuters wanted
Hello to the round, as already announced above, I look for tips for a used vehicle. Certainly not all conditions will be meetable at once, but you experts can certainly help me find the best compromise. 🙂 So to the financial. I didn’t necessarily want to take more than 1000€ into my hands, just because the car is supposed to be a transition solution for about 3 years. I drive 90 km every day, of which about 75 km of motorway. So it should be a diesel with not too low engine power – fast advance and speed up is more important to me than low consumption (Oh so, green badge has to be, otherwise I don’t come home 😉 ). Besides, I would like to have a combo (negotiable). Climate must be, Navi would be nice, but with the price it’s rather not in it. Now it’s actually important: I would like a robust car, not a whiny folding box, where every day something else is broken. Here I can imagine, for example, that with the older E-Class is better served than with a newer rice cooker. In addition, the spare parts costs should not eat me up, which certainly does not really fit the topic Benz. I am completely unloaded by brand technology, only no VW (unsypathic brand), but they certainly fall out anyway. 😉 So, thank you for your attention and help! Greetings Jan.
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Defect in fast motorway travel
My father says every time we talk about high speeds, that this always ends in a disaster. To explain: I like to drive fast. My father on the highway 120, however, because this is safer and car-friendly. He is always afraid that there is something broken on the car. Now to my actual question: Is something happened to you, or do you know someone, because he has driven too fast? I don’t mean by that now, however, that d I drive ONLY fast, if the traffic permits, which my father does not understand either, because he always tells you, if someone drives in front of you and that 100000 times. My question refers to that something breaks on the car. His Supergau examples are: tire-placers, valves break, or yesterday the Burner camshaft breaks or what do I know and at speed 220 (my maximum speed) blo Now seriously: Do you know such cases where such a thing happened and WHEN: How often did it happen? My father always beats: Do you quickly die or end up in a wheelchair. And what happened so far? Nothing! I am an ultra careful driver and drive Vmax., if it is REALLY possible, or if I am on the AB at 2 o’clock at night and no one is driving on the left lane and sometimes on the right. I don’t think I’m going to drive a truck, but I don’t think I’m going to get anyone on my trail so I can drive it in. What do you think of his horror ideas? Exaggerated, or yet a reason to think?