Hello guys, After I changed the front brake pads on my fatboy, with ABS, the pressure point is gone. The system was not open, so air in the system is missing as a cause. Had the same already before, then the mechanic in the workshop said that I had installed the pads and the clamps incorrectly. This time I paid careful attention and used them correctly. Does anyone have an idea?
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cost cloth+bike+accessories
servus first of all I wanted to make the motorcycle lobe by the next summer and asked myself what costs come for me. on the one hand I need the lobe (class 2 I already have) on the other a motorcycle (should not be the most expensive, but also not the cheapest) the yamaha yzf r1 looks nice and pricey it seems to be ok – used of course. or did I forget? on the other hand accessories – helmet, gloves, shoes, etc. since I have no idea about it, I wanted here ask questions. what kind of accessories do I need, and how expensive is the fun? I guess the riding school will be the second-thickest rocker with 1000-1500 €. bike so 3000-500€. oh, how is that with the motorcycles, you have to pay more attention than with cars? go the faster times broken etc? the km data are for cars almost new cars values. and there are after all also 4 cyl. questions about questions, please help me, please say hello, alex
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MZ ES 150: Advanced troubleshooting: mixture much too lean
Hello, just set up the MZ ES 150 from my girlfriend again. I slowly despair about the mixture. I will describe the symptoms here exactly…and need qualified hints. Kern oneliners like “FALSCHLUFT!!!111” do not bring me any further… And indeed, it was originally totally distorted and ran only on Choke and with push until it did not run at all. Batteries killed her. I want to get her back on the road and in the course of the a lot of things have already been done, even at the electrics – I don’t get any closer now, since the ignition seems OK. Ignition spark is there and it is also running… only extremely wrong. Mechanical controller was replaced by an electronic one so that it does not always discharge the batteries deeply. (It also works). To the mixture: So I first removed the carburettor, completely cleaned, checked all nozzles and renewed. Again screwed on, and see: It ran at the first kick. Gi But after a few seconds the carburettor was not set yet. So far, so good. At that time we recorded this, here is the video:https://photos.app.goo.gl/qtGGvkr2RCHB8Uzs7 A few weeks after the attempt the box stood, because we have no time to screw. And then the horror started. We only got it when we turned the spark plug out and put a few ml of fuel directly into the ignition chamber. It remained on, but continued to pull out the carburettor. The adjustment screws on the carburettor did not have any effect. Nor did the needle position. I checked the carburettor again, set the float and let two car masters look over it, both of which say the carburettor looks great. Then I found that the box runs when I take off the air filter and take the air almost completely with my hand or the like. If I allow a minimum of more air, the engine pulls up immediately. To make it a little lighter I have made an attachment to do it and not to have to regulate the speed with a finger movement. Thus the box starts super. the 24 diameter intake flange I have with it throttled on pin head size. (see picture)https://photos.app.goo.gl/8WFcG3DqjzEx183F7 So the following picture: Speed accelerates continuously to the very top. Still no noticeable adjustment possibility by speed/mixing screw/part load needle. When I give gas, the speed r If I don’t stop in time, I stop the air completely, it goes out. I made a video for this, see here: I first had false air in the suspicion. Cylinder foot seal and insulating flange renewed. False air test results: No false air on cylinder foot, head, manifold, intake flange. A nice guy on Facebook thinks that the shaft seal could have given up the mind and thus she could have false air from the drive But then I would ask myself: Why does it go out when I completely “turn off” the air on the carburetor? You would have to get enough wrong air or not? So I have the feeling that it may not be the wrong air, but I am at the end with my Latin. My feeling is, maybe try a whole new carburetor to definitely exclude it… the carburetor was made a lot, a new partial load needle (the RIGHT one, the previous one was a lot small) he) as well as controlling the spraying… My thought is, if she doesn’t get too much air, then maybe too little fuel? On the other hand, it speaks again that she still raises the speed so high…https://photos.app.goo.gl/vnYXAtgBkGtxSYdc6
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Sweating
Hi, I hope I’m right here in the forum, I didn’t find anything more suitable. So I have an old barkas and I’m just welding the body. The welding device is a “migboy 200” from messer griesheim so a protective gas gets. Before I didn’t have a very big sweating knowledge, but I can manage now. However, I have problems with the correct setting of the device from time to time. Meistst does this with the setting so that I get super beautiful welding points (to be sure, But then it happens again and again that on my exercise sheets the biggest holes are simply fried. I know, this is above all a matter of exercise and also a matter of feeling. That’s the only way I have such problems to get a good feeling. Since I want to spare myself a relatively expensive welding course, I hope to get advice here (for the sake of being able to still attend a course) The problem is that I do not want to miss out on any other plates, but I hope to get advice here. hrmal quite well knows what the buttons mean (sounds funny now, but when it was set up there were no problems) and in the internet I could not find a guide in my search. So I have a large central rotary knob (continuously) which is responsible for the wire feed (and probably also regulates the voltage). Then a smaller rotary switch with 12 steps, which probably adjusts the current strength (?). Then there are two connections into which you can insert the mass of the plugs kan n (once 220 and 380 volts ?). Furthermore, there is a small stepless rotary switch which, according to the symbol, should have something to do with the wire length outside the burner. I hope for quick and nice help. Thanks already. I could come to a picture of the switchboard, but since I only have mobile internet and the workshop is a bit away. That’s why everything is mostly small.
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Why do many new cars no longer have a water temperature indicator?
Servus! I used the search function but found nothing. What I noticed for a long time is that many newer vehicles have no coolant temperature indicator [oil would be more important in my opinion] anymore. VW Polo, Seat Ibiza, Skoda Fabia, Opel Corsa, Toyota Yaris, Toyota Aygo, Mazda 2, etc. I always found it nice to know when the water is warm, then 15 – 20 km normally continued until the engine oil is also warm [Experience value from the motorcycle, since I have oil temperature displays] and only then will the engine be required if necessary. Was this only saved for cost reasons or are there reasonable technical arguments for this? With a strongly rising pointer on the “water clock” I can still take counter measures [heating fully up, engine off, etc.], the warning lamp will certainly only come when it is too late… I would definitely retrofit water and oil temperature indicator in the car if not available. I like the technology “in view”. What do you think?
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Honda MBX 50 Weak spark
Hello, I have a few problems with my MBX and hope for tips because I am finished with my Latin. And I bought myself for the winter over a Honda MBX 50, has a 70 he set on it, but that does not matter now. The problem is that I ran out of it 4 weeks ago. But she let herself click again. A few days later the same game was now kicking but no solution but I had to push it several times to run again. In addition, I have to i always keep it on the gas, since it did not hold any stationary gas. However, I wanted to drive again for a few days and it went out with a misignition on full drive and since that can be neither kicking nor pushing. Carburettors and membranes are cleaned and spark plug gets moist. The ignition spark is there, however not really strong. Already changed (so new) or checked (measured) is: spark plug Ignition coil (with cable and plug) impulse generator (at the base plate) te) Ignition unit (on the base plate) All cables tested for passage, to exclude cable breakage If I connect the ignition coil (old and new; according to measured values both functional) externally to a battery in order to get an ignition spark without ignition plug, it falls out very small up to almost no spark. Does the CDI serve as amplifier for the ignition coil? Currently I am really in despair and have slowly demanded that the thing to throw away. Hope on helpful tips, many da I don’t think so.
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More clogged?
Hi all, Here’s a summary of my coolant problem (I’ve had it for a few weeks): •Vehicle. Skoda Fabia TDI RS •Cool water evaporates regularly (every 50km) when the engine is warm (display 90°C) •Interior heating works quite normally; in the overflow tank (if you call it that?) I also see water being transported. So the water pump should work. •The heat exchanger of the large circuit always remains cold (I assume it should be in normal condition). And when driving on the motorway, you get so warm that you can feel it with your hand, right?) Ergo: big circuit is not flown through by the cooling water 1. Suspicion: Thermostat defective. I ordered and installed a new thermostat (was quite easy; LiMa doesn’t even have to be folded out, but just to the front. I could leave belts on it). Interim result: no change It is still the case that the large circuit is not flown through, even though the pump runs and the thermostat is new. first question: When changing thermostats, air was certainly also released into the system, and certainly also into the large circuit. I did not vent anything, since I assumed that the air would be transported through the circuit after a short time and that it would be stuck in the balancing tank and that it would be gone the next time. If that was the case, then my second suspicion: large circuit is clogged. Therefore, I think I could dismantle the heat exchanger and use tap water or Rinse through high pressure cleaners. Maybe even soak with correga tabs or something like that. I’ve also read that you give any cleaner directly into the cooling water. But if the large circuit is actually clogged, then nothing comes from the cleaner on the heat exchanger. Quite basic concerns or comments?
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Performance Lima Aprilia SX 125 2020
Hi, I’m new here, from Thuringia and drive an Aprilia SX 125, BJ 2020 (so the Euro-5 model). I would like to build an underfloor lighting (yes, I’m aware that this is illegal and leads to the extinction of the BE, but this should be incidental here!) and have a few questions about it. 1. How much power does the alternator supply / with how much power is the battery charged? I’m worried that then I can’t start the motorcycle without the battery. Charging by charger, because the LED’s in driving mode could discharge the battery. 2. How much voltage must be at least on the battery to use an e-starter? Unfortunately, the SX no longer has a kickstarter. MfG Johan
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Recommendation
Hello, I am looking for a 125 motorcycle for me and my girlfriend for small trips on weekends. Which would you recommend which is also suitable for comfortable Sozius operation. Especially it is very important to me that I also get spare parts relatively cheap and also in the 10 years still. What is your recommendation? Thank you in advance.
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Is a seat a wear part???
Hello, I bought a used Viano bus. Now I had to find out that a seam on the back seat is loose. As a result, I informed the car dealer. (Mercedes dealer) The seller informed me that there can be certain traces of usage and a seat would better not count the seam as material defects liability.