Hello friends in the forum, according to Google Android car the following conditions apply for wireless operation: – Citroen Berlingo from year 2018 – Smartphone Google Pixel5 – Android Version 11 All 3 points are fulfilled with me, but I can’t get it to work. (With cable it works.) Maybe I’m too stupid. The friendly person doesn’t know either. Is there someone who already got it? If so, how? I’m looking forward to an answer.
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VW Lupo, Polo, Smart or other small cars?
Hello, I would like to buy a small car. Prerequisites: -favorably in the purchase -favorably in the entertainment -low consumption I have now picked out some small cars and would need your knowledge/experience. I thought about e.g. a Vw Lupo or a smart. Lupo in the range 120-150tkm diesel and approx. year 2000. smart in the range of approx. 100tkm and BJ 2001-2003. Which car and which engine can you recommend? I have heard the 1.7 sdi in the lupo should be robust, but expensive in tax and insurance. How robust are the motors in the smart? Due to the consumption I tend to the diesel (60km/day). Would the car like to drive for a while. Which car can you recommend me? Should I also consider other models. Technically robust should it be and not vulnerable. Do not want to have to invest too much money in the maintenance. Hope you can give me before and after and help me
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Workshop/expert for N62B44 in the north searched
Hello BMW Gemeinde my car (e61, 545i, 2004) has been standing in the workshop for 6 weeks with too low oil pressure. This has to do with the fact that the workshop, like almost everyone in my area, has hardly any time, on the other hand, I believe that they do not dare to do so. At the bottom where the oil pressure switch is sitting, I have cold 2 bar, warm by 0.5, which is unfortunately far too little. The check valves have already been seen. In addition, the lower oil tank has been removed, where the gentlemen on The oil filter also had holes! and perhaps worst, there were silver and copper-colored chips to be found. So, what to do now? Selling with engine damage? Or is there perhaps a workshop/engine repairer in the north that someone can recommend? My current workshop calculates alone for de- and assembly to get to the oil pump 1000-150€. Then there would be the chips… ADAC and the mechanics of my workshop, by the way, the engine is running top, no suspicious noises, etc. Thanks already, if someone can contribute something helpful and sorry for the wrong forum but with the 7s just give a lot more N62. Greeting Michael
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F06 Alarm system does not hit a test
Hello, I have installed an alarm system from BMW ex factory (S302 alarm system incl. S322 comfort access) at my BMW F06 and wanted to test what happens if the car is locked by remote control and I take the remote control out of reach (about 15 meters) and then try to unlock the car with the normal key from the remote control. That would actually be a scenario like it would be done with a decoder key. To my astonishment, however, did not happen at all. ts. I was able to unlock the door and put myself in the car. The alarm system that had been flashing red before (rear mirror) stopped flashing, so it was disabled. How can that be? Shouldn’t the alarm system go off? By the way, since car was already blocked all night, it was definitely not due to too short time between locking up via Comfort access and unlocking by hardware key. Does anyone have an idea about this? Think about a Vodafone or Pandora alarm system to verb therefore wanted to test what the BMW alarm system already offers for protection…
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Beware of display cars with more than 40% discount
Currently a lot of very cheap demonstration cars are offered. Gutbelievable buyers are registered with a car that was 8 months ago, yes, think the car is maybe a year or a year and a half old, maybe even only 8 or 9 months It is absolutely recommended to ask the chassis number on a corresponding page on the internet. Google VIN Check smart There is then next to the exact equipment also the exact production date announced. e ich mehr Mitte/Ende 2016 fortwo/forfour discovered, but they make themselves as old 2014er cars. And now waiting for buyers, who think you have made a bargain, according to the motto “super, 43% discount, and only 2000km and only a little over half a year old” The car is 3 years old, and from the first series without various improvements. I also noticed that there are enormously many demonstration cars, which are over half a year old, but have only run 1000 or 2000km. According to the BGH, a car that was produced over a year ago can no longer be sold as new cars. Thus, some people may force themselves on the suspicion that one simply avoids this anger in which one allows the whole shopkeepers as demonstration vehicles, although not so much demonstration cars are needed. 1000km in 8 months speak for this assumption.. Who now likes to answer, “I can ask the seller about the production date…” to be said: within a Woc I was told twice a wrong date, and twice told you you couldn’t find out. Only a single answer of 5 was correct.
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Engine no longer has compression after repair
Hello, short summary: Peugeot 106 1.0l Gasoline Year of manufacture 1994 (30,000 (real) Km) The cooler was tight / it was already gushing out at the top of the filling socket Well, at least the head was screwed down (please don’t ask me why, I wasn’t there) and then the open block was covered and the car was left in a workshop. Then it was in the way and it was pushed out as it was. ufbuchse of the 1st cyl. a little pushed up (however). Then someone thought: “Oh, let’s just hammer them in again carefully”. Well yes. Then the ZDK was renewed all the Shrubs/Seals etc. and the head was screwed on again. [So far only from narrative] Now I came to it. I missed the good piece a new timing belt + WaPu (wish of the owner/the old one was around). Then after Rep. guide the valve play was adjusted (really ver and the Fzg. of course did not jump. [I was strictly opposed to setting the VS, but it doesn’t matter] Then an old-served master came in and set the valve game himself, as he did in his statement, already at 100th of cars. But now he still didn’t jump. Compression (until now only on the 1.Cyl.) measured -> zero compression.Who has an idea about what it can be? (The master certainly has no (probably no desire) [Es se se i still said that the cylinder order (francose) was taken into account during valve play and the original problem with the cooling system is now ignored]
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Where exactly is the OT-Geber at the 106?
Moinsen, yesterday my mother called me “Car doesn’t start anymore!”. So I gurgled there and realized: In fact, no more jumps Previously there were occasional dropouts. Once, last week, he jumped out but immediately started again. I then tested everything known to me and found out that there is no spark of ignition. Some research then brought me to the OT-Geber, as also the control lamp lights up. Had the error codes according to the method “Pin2 of the green plug on result: 1 – 2 – test start 1 – 1 – final test So just as smart as before. So I wanted to get to the valuer of my trust and an OT-Geber. But that’s where it starts. WO Is this exactly sitting? I entered everything possible at google until the night at 3, but found no suitable picture, just hint like “OT-Geber change”. I can’t say much to the car itself, the key numbers are 3003/693 year 1994 with 44kW (a Palm Be ach iss). Recently I changed the brakes in front and back, more has not been made – Okay, the lifting roof I had to stick to because there was a free shower in the rain
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Electric dead – smell of rotten eggs (hydrogen sulfur?)
This morning I wanted to start a nice tour, but 10 km behind the apartment door the box went out suddenly. Electric dead. Bike completely loaded, therefore the breakdown service carried home. In the garage suddenly this typical smell of rotten eggs is noticeable to me (sulphate hydrogen?) – voltage only 10.8V, the charger mots and says battery “sulphates”. The battery is not 2 weeks old – DELO HD GEL-BATTERIE YTX20HL-BS SAE 290A. Had that ever been someone from E uch? A brand-new battery gives up the mind? Or can it be something else? Just 3 weeks ago, I renewed the controller, battery, main fuse, flash relays and all the pears. See https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…ftail-battery-broken-t6836214.html
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Wallstree ECU new, no change
Dear community, I’m not new but I’ve mostly read along so far. Nevertheless, I introduce myself. I’m from Munich and I’ve been the owner of a 125 Wally for a few weeks. I’ve read a lot about the box in the forum, both by noti and by the little bad wolf. I’m not quite clumsy about repairs and understanding. So I’ve taken on the usual problem of the wallys. No reaction on ignition, except the usual electrics, which works (light, turn signal, horn), main fuse has been checked and replaced. A new ECU from AlieExpress and a new controller have already been installed including new battery. Unfortunately, no change is still possible. I can’t rule out that the new ECU does not have one away. So far, discussions about the chat from AlieEXpress. If all the ropes are torn, I will completely disassemble the scooter and offer you as a spare part dispenser. The engine has run 5000km. Has a r of you still tips or suggestions for me? Love greetings your tdi
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4 beat Benzhou Flex Thech Fun 50ccm scooter problems.
The first problem is the right brake does not react with the rear light if I want to brake. Only if I come with the left brake light in the back. Then I think I have an easy motto damage or I have to clean my carburetor or change because the kick starter builds up your right pressure and can be pressed very loosely which is not normal. It goes red zdem with e in Kickstarter at but slower. Should I fix the kickstarter? Or the belts? And then one last problem. When I drive quite rarely it goes out suddenly, when I rarely push not on gas. But it goes after that easy again and it drives from itself on so about 20kmh without that I push something. Would be very happy about an answer. Thank you