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Blog
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XC90 MJ18, noises while steering
Hello, 280km down, new model with SCR Kat (D5). I drove the D5 MJ18 since summer and by accident now the one which was delivered here on 02.01.18. So I know the D5 already well, but the new one has LuFW. Now I noticed yesterday when steering in front right a noise, while driving slowly while steering. However, not reproducible, after that tried and similar situation was driving nothing. Just from the shopping and there it was again. I have inserted the tires and checked everything whether something is grinding… nothing to see. It sounds like that, but can also fool me there only briefly and then away. It is about 0 degrees outside. What annoys that it is not understandable when it comes the noise. Did you have the problem already? Did that have anything to do with the LuFW? That is the only difference to the two D5 which I have driven so far. The noise was not immediately after the departure but was already 2-3km on the way in the comfort mode. Greeting Holger
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V40 – Noise when releasing the accelerator pedal
Hello, since about 1 month I have a used V40 1.9D Sport BJ 2002. The car has 37tkm down. If I drive on the country road and turn off the radio I hear a noise when (quickly) let go of the gas pedal (to switch) as if something is ventilated or a flap is shut too slowly.. I don’t know exactly how to describe it but if I go off the gas there’s just this hissing. Do you know that maybe one of you? Maybe this is normal with a diesel? The used car dealer (swab garage) has made completely TÜV and so. Have also 1 year warranty. Do you think I should have another check something there? Thank you for your tips. Greeting, Marco PS: my current consumption: 6l with fast driving! Really great of the cars !!! (115hp)
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The moose is ticking without end!
Hello dear friends and to all those who would send me to the moon! I have a very long thick problem with my V40! The V40 just doesn’t want to start, noodles itself a fairly during the start behavior, which takes up to 2 minutes, then it starts the engine. The engine control light has been lit for 3 -4 months with some breaks. I have changed everything at the ignition system now, what you can change, throttle valve has been cleaned. The LMM has been tested, is ok. Air filter has been renewed and the annual engine oil change 2018 has been already. The cat has been checked-is ok. The 1st Lambdasonde control probe has been replaced by a new one. Since the engine ran 14 days without interference. Then it went off again with very bad start and engine control light was again. I made a diagnostic test in a workshop. Result: 2. Lambdasonde diagnosis is very broken. Again a few weeks ago I bought a new Lambdasonde diagnosis at Skandix. Costet 176,-€ with shipping. Yesterday it was built. Today the same morning the test should be very good at 7:00.
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V8 in GP3/4 or the agony of choice
Moin together, soon I have to decide again and the V8 moves closer than previously thought. I appreciate the TDI very much, consumption and power up to 140 are sufficient but somehow I would like to drive again something else in the sense of motorization. One does not read much good about the V8. Too thirsty, too little torque, rotary organ, bad gear tuning, too nervous, oldest engine/gear combi in the P1, etc. DSUs and Pesbod’s “suffer story” I have followed or read. Most of the posts refer to the GP0-GP2. Has really nothing changed in the GP3/4? Yes, there are already many threads to this but up to now none of these threads could give me the decided Ruck in any direction. Should you just dare it sometimes? I ride with the TDI actually often speedily, 95% BAB, in the rule between 150 and 220, if possible also in the border area. I come with a tank about 700KM far, sometimes less than that. In the year it’s not like 35 hours of consumption.
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Clutch pedal provides sporadically firmer resistance and the ordeal with the workshop.
It’s really hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get rid of the car, it’s hard to get. It’s hard to get it’s hard to get it’s hard to get over. It’s hard to get it’s hard to get it’s time.
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Acquired in the Approach of Spiritual Enlightenment
Hello G class friends, I would like to sneak in carefully here, as I certainly want to get one or the other tip from experienced screwdrivers. I am IT Freak shortly before retirement age, I started a mechanical engineering study in the early days and have been screwing our cars for over 40 years. My last project was a Mitsubishi L200, he came from a quarry and looked like that. I was able to exchange him last week, after successful restoration for a 280GE, formerly border guard (also in the quarry business). I will provide some photos of the misery in the next few days and am now happier? G class owner. Best greetings from Aachen
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What is my G’s tax cost in Germany?
Hello people, since today it is definitely that oldtimer in Holland will no longer be tax-free from 01.01.2014. For my beloved 280GE BJ 82 this means the death sentence. Since I have equipped it with an LPG system, I will have to pay Laeppische 240 Euro per month from the next year in order to be able to move my car with a hollandic license plate. (there is not yet the insurance in there) So now I am looking for an alternative possible. Two questions arise: How much tax do I pay for a 280GE BJ 82 with LPG in Germany? So no historical license plate, (for that I would probably have to expand the gas system) but simply normal as a three-year-old scraper. What does the import of such a vehicle van de Netherlands cost to Germany? Maybe one of you has an idea? Grusse Chris P.S.: I couldn’t make the calculation myself because I didn’t have an emission lock.
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New starter battery G 500 (2000 VorMopf)
Hello G-emeinde, after last week’s battery in my G fell, it is now time to replace them. Since the car ran in Japan until last year, a Korean battery is in it. It is not visible on this from when it is, nor any voltage technical data. My workshop still had a Varta Silver E3 with 95 Ah, which they gave me. This battery is unfortunately only 5 centimeters too long at the foot. Since it is a pre-mopf from 2000, it has the battery still installed in the left rear wheel box. There fits in max times one with 30 cm foot length. But all, which I have found so far, are larger. Who can recommend me a model with good performance and suitable dimensions? HG Syncla
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Purchase D5, 163, 185 or 2007 185 hp model
Hello, we momemtan specifically with the idea to buy our first Dickelch, after we slowly but surely become more dissatisfied with userem Voyager (quality, workshop annoyance etc.) Since it is not yet clear whether to buy a used model or buy a new 2007 model, I would be interested in your opinion about the three submissible engine versions of the D5: 1. Purchase of a 163 hp model (until approx.8.2005) would be the cheapest variant, but the weakest engine with the famous start-up weakness 2. Purchase of a 2006 with 185 hp, i.e. before the FL good machine, but as a used vehicle clearly more expensive 3. Purchase of a new 2007er with 185 hp and particle filter Since the XC90 from the private chatule has to be paid, I see between the three variants a cost rating of 35,000 to 45,000 resp. 45,000 (new purchase) Certainly the 2007 when reselling is by far the most sought-after model, followed by the 2006 with 185 hp. The old with 163 hp then there are clear disadvantages, as well as to the increase of the fuel consumption.