Hello, during the axle measurement (2.4i) unfortunately the right track rod could not be set, as this should be stuck according to Reifen.com workshop (after 15 years possibly even comprehensible). I was advised to make the fixed track rod in a workshop by heating. Up to now I have not found a workshop that wanted to do so. What I can understand if necessary, because that can probably only be the last emergency solution (heat on the chassis). Now I want to try my luck myself with WD40 and ceramic rust releaser cold shock spray in order to avoid the replacement of track rod + head. Enough, if I have to pay the measurement + adjustment again. Unfortunately, my existing 22 key is too small for the counter nut. What size do I need?! I don’t have a measuring slider or access to VIDA. I was able to turn the track rod myself at the designated location with a 16 key. Must always be solved for the track rod adjustment? Thanks for your help!
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Purchase of C70 Gen.2 (179PS)
Moin, I’m currently 20 years old and I’m looking for a car for me. Actually I looked for CLK, A5 etc., but then I looked around Volvos. I used to like Volvo, because my father had some and I built up my sympathy. Now I’m interested in the C70 and I found one last time. Something under 200,000 km with a D5 engine (179hp) and automatic. Cost point 680€ and is in my budget of 800€. I want to buy a diesel because I get it cheaper because of my work, so a petrol engine is not in question. My mtl. budget is at 300€. Do you think that’s feasible? <- Insurance and taxes are not included In addition, my question is where I can find a maintenance plan, I just found that I should change all 30000km/1 year engine oil. And the tooth strap every 10 years/180000km, but the listing I have found has already changed at 160000km. The C70 is a summ edition/equiption would not be the same as the one. And I've found the answer to the question about this.
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V40 – Engine life?
So far, my wife has driven a Mercedes C-Class (W202). The engines and units have never caused problems, but the rust… I’d like to know what this topic looks like with the Volvo V40? I’m also interested in recommendations about the engine. The engines are hard to get with less than 150,000km. The 2.0T seems to be relatively stable, so that a turbocharger does not seem to represent a reason for buying. Is that right? The T4 is probably too temperamental for the front-wheeler. The 2.0 without a turbo is probably very tame? What is the durability of the automatic?
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Ordering parts on the Internet!
Hello dear V 40 municipality! I have severe problems with an internet provider who sells and sends car parts over the Internet. The provider is: https://www.pkwteile.de/auto parts/volvo-replaced parts. I have ordered spark plugs there, but are not available because the manufacturer allegedly has no more. Then I have ordered spare spark plugs. Are also not available. This is already very strange. Who has such problems there? Greeting Torsten
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Diesel filter housing V40 1.9
Dear community, at the moment I’m desperately trying to get the start problems of my V40 1.9 Diesel 115hp into the grip. It actually only starts with the help of Startpilot, but then runs smoothly. Cold or warm doesn’t make any difference. The fault memory showed the camshaft sensor. I changed it, but did not bring any real improvement. Now to the actual question. Why is the plug on the housing of the die filter – compared to the supply lines. After all, it will certainly transmit any information to the control unit. If the sensor or switch in the housing is defective, this could also lead to the start problems.
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DPF values, engine control lamps (Rosselklappe)
Hello, with my P. the motoro control light has been shining for some time. Now I have read out the error memory by means of VCDS. The following error is filed: 005445 – throttle control; P1545-002 malfunction. I suspect that the throttle valve is rusty, or there is another mechanical error. Where exactly is the throttle valve with the 3.0 V6 TDI? What is the cost of a new throttle valve? Furthermore, this error probably prevents the regeneration of the DPF, because mine was recently burned free before 980km. I have read the following values by means of VCDS: Oil ash volume: 0.32 Load ash mass value calculated: 40,2 Load ash mass value measured: 1.2 Distance since last regeneration: 980km How about my particle filter? How long can I drive before the filter clogs? Up to what maximum value can I still burn the particle filter free?
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Inspection – bring oil yourself?
Hello Jag fans, since I was used to bringing my longlife oil with me at Audi (1L approx. 6 Euro, with Audi directly 1L approx. 24 Euro) I wanted to ask how this is with Jaguar. Can you bring your own oil with me? Or are they looking at you stupid? I find it an absolute impudence like other manufacturers to get to the oil costs. I think Jaguar will be no different here, too, right?! Since I usually do everything myself on the car, but I still have 1.5 years warranty, I probably have no choice but to go to Jaguar 🙁 Maybe someone knows the cost of an oil change for a 2.2 D (6 liter oil, 5W-30) at Jaguar? Greeting Axel
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Motor remains cold – thermostat defective ?
Hello together, drive a Suzuki Swift 1.0 GLX (3 cylinder) Bj 98, mainly short distances (about 4 km) in the city traffic (unfortunately many traffic lights ). We have the car since August, the consumption is about 8 liters in the city traffic. Now in the winter it is noticeable that it takes extremely long to get warm, the pointer moves even in the city traffic only barely out of the cold field. Over the holidays I had a few longer distances (each 50 km country road) and noticed that the car also never came out of the “C”, sometimes with quiet drive in the 5th gear even colder again (the heating was also only lukewarm). The consumption was despite about 200 km of land road with over 8 liters. After some research here in the forum I am quite sure that the thermostat must be broken. In contrast to some other cars one seems to be able to change it at the Swift yes itself, since someone can give tips ? Or does someone have an idea whether there can also be another cause ?
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Why a Vitara?
Hi guys, I’m going to introduce myself! My name is Mickey (was already occupied) and I would like to buy a Suzuki Vitara! It should be a JLX. I have about 2000 Euro available. Now my questions: Why should I choose a Vitara? What do I have to pay particular attention to when buying? Are 2000 Euro realistic? What are the most common vulnerabilities in the Vitara? I could get one, but BJ 89 and already 220000 KM down. I think that’s too much for 1.6l! I attached a picture of this car! That should be enough for now, I don’t want to get annoyed! 😉
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Jaguar XJ 81, 6.0 what to do?
Hello you cat friends! On this way my debut also here at Jaguar. I already own an S type from 1964, and looked at me yesterday an Xj 81 V12 with the 6 liter motörchen. Car stood the last 8 years in a garage, now with a dealer who does not get it sold. Short to the cat: Bj 93 220tkm on the clock Green/Beige No rust at the neuralgic points! Interior somewhat habitated but working up checkbook up to 120tkm Euro1 4’th hand No TÜV The car starts to run but not round. Engine room as far as you can see clean. Turns constantly around the 1100 tours, and also does not regulate down. As I see the exhaust gases only come from a tube The dealer has no idea of V12 bought the car in the course of a household resolution. Well the Gretchen question: We were last at 1000€, I think at 700€ he will probably nod down. What do you think I should do? Greeting, Robert Der Link:http://suchen.mobile.de//183125.html?