The Honda Jazz is built in 2004. Initially the door lock no longer worked, then the ignition lock. With difficulty I could insert the ignition key again and start the vehicle. Since then I pulled it out only once, out of worry to not be able to plug it in and thus the car can no longer drive to the workshop. Now the shock: the Honda contract workshop told me that the replacement of the ignition lock with making a key cost 2000,00 €, each further key again 400,00 €. I let the vehicle drive freshly over the TÜV (was with another repair quite expensive) and would not want to leave the car because of its otherwise good reliability. On the Internet you can find many companies, the replacement ignition locks and key manufacture, but the free repair workshop of my trust told me, this does not work in most cases, one has to rely on Honda contract workshops. Whereby I have tried to buy another contract workshop of Honda lock clearly then have to return to the Internet for about 700,00 € the lock for repair, but also this is not always working. In addition, I would have to do less with 10 days to try it. But if I had tried to buy one more than another key.
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Front car (leaking) pulls to the right……
Hello, everybody! Yesterday I picked up my XC70 from the car. In order was given among others a chassis measurement. Already on the return trip I felt a slight “pull” or “drift” of the front car to the right, so that I was often busy with it, slightly to the left to steer. Today I drove a little longer and added, to the above mentioned “self-style”, that if I let go of the steering wheel on straight track, it immediately slightly to the right and the car of course also “pulls there”. Only light counter steering briefly help. Have on Wednesday again an appointment at that. But before it is so far, I would have liked to have caught up with you, dear elk driver community, again a few opinions. Has someone already done with it already experience? Is that what is going on there, explainable? I don’t want to show up quite without background knowledge at the appointment. Oh yes, if the question arises, yes, the tires are equally driven (both still around 5,5mm, was measured old).
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140 hp vacuum cleaner against 2.4T
Hello everyone, consider whether I would like to exchange my 140 HP suction cup for a 2.4T. The 2.4T is from 2001, (like my 140 HP suction cup) has about 90,000 km and automatic (just want to have one automatic). It should be kept and the timing belt has already been changed. Question now: Does such an exchange or prefer to take a younger 2.4T ? The purchase price of the 2.4T would meet my finances (about 8,000 euros, from the dealer with guarantee). Thanks already for your feedback.
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V70I TDI Control light motor electrics, power loss, no longer starts
Good morning, My beloved Volvo is worried…… Days ago I noticed at the front left (direction) a funny clacking/grinding noise. A car master listened to that, first gave a warning about valves etc. Then I sporadically noticed a very slight jerking during the ride. Suddenly in the morning, he jumped after felt hundreds of attempts, even with a lot of blue out of the exhaust. On the way to the “workshop” (garage) I had to refuel. After that he ran only with strong power loss. This cracking was quite penetrating. Anyway, I felt that. Still something to the timing belt, he had some time, but had decided to change it. I was also told by the car master that this noise did not come from there. I also have to mention that the control light engine electric lights. That she did sporadically also, after my feeling was especially fond of humid weather. I would be grateful for how I can start the error search. I don’t have a diagnostic device available. Thank you and greeting.
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XC90: Water infiltration in the footroom
That can’t be the case… Volvo gives the depth of the XC90 with 40cm or more, but the floor is not dense. For the second time, the floor and the carpet lying above the driver’s side is completely wet and partly wet on the passenger’s side, where the wetness comes clearly from the deepest point of the ground. Oh yes, I did not drive through a deep ford, but only washed my car thoroughly (by hand, with the water hose, without injecting the underbody large). Let’s see what the friendly one means to it; meanwhile the first inspection is due anyway. Then hopefully the new flap noise is switched off. And the fall at the back due to suspicious tyre wear is remeasured. And the paint defects are taken into consideration. Grusss Christoph, still satisfied with the XC90, but still a bit annoying.
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Car sold, paid but not picked up
Hello dear people, I have a problem & have slowly felt I fell for a fraud. I sold my Renault Twingo, was my everyday car. The car is logged off & has no tuv anymore. A gentleman has registered via eBay classifieds, with interest in a purchase. Was finally here, looked at the car & paid. I then handed him the papers and keys. He said he would pick up the car the same day afternoon, but that did not happen. Unfortunately he was away so quickly & I have so stupid and have no purchase contract or data from it. The car is now in my garage, for which I of course also pay money & the buyer does not register any more. How can I proceed now? Police or lawyer? The latter I do not believe is worth with a purchase price of 300€. Thanks already in advance for the answers. LG
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Vehicle assessment in case of sale with pre-damage?
Servus together, I will shortly sell my Audi A3 40 TFSI, EZ 07/19. At the moment I ask myself if it makes sense to have a vehicle evaluation in advance to have an independent residual value. If the car had no pre-damage, I would be easier to do so. The car looks like new, nevertheless it had a rear damage (return accident without involvement of the body, “only” plastic parts exchanged) as well as a serious hail damage. Both were fixed in appropriate repair shops and there are no more damage visible. Nevertheless, there will be a loss of value. Whether the car is sold to a dealer or privately I do not know yet, but rather to the dealer. My concerns would be now the aspect of the buyer trying to overpress the price due to the pre-damage. However, there will probably not be any other possibility than a vehicle evaluation to obtain a realistic residual value, at least I could not find anything further on the net. If someone had similar experiences about whether a vehicle evaluation is worthwhile in this case?
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What’s the most meaningful thing? Selling or keeping a car?
Hello forum, we bought a used Seat Leon St FR 2.0 diesel with 150ps a year ago. We are also very satisfied and like the car, even if it is a little small for us. Child +2Dogs that can get tight. I have a company car. My wife drives the car mainly. She drove about 25tkm last year. But now my wife has a job in the neighboring town offered. Which then corresponds only to a work path of exactly 3,8km. That means during the week the car would almost never come to operating temperature. I wonder now if we should change to a petrol truck. Kla would be useful in principle. But if I look at the offers at mobile there is hardly anything under 15000 euros. Also a hybrid would be ok but priceless. The new car should have a lot of space. At least a large car. At least 150ps and Ahk since I often pull a hanger on weekends. My wife it is important that he looks a little sporty too. With a Berlingo or caddy she would probably beat me. On the other side I ask for a big car. At least 150ps and Ahk then I should not invest a new time.
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Reliability XC90 vs. V70 (II)
Hello, I fluctuate between a V70 P26 and an XC90 (1). I would like to operate both with an LPG system. What could be problematic with the XC90: All-wheel and automatic – with the V70 I would take one with a manual transmission and front drive (probably the 2.4 with 140 hp). With the XC90 you have no timing belt but a (hopefully) durable control chain. Who knows what it looks like with the spare parts supply, repair vulnerability and the general reliability of the two models? Greetings and thanks already Stefan
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S80 – throttle valve unit defective
Hello, I’m driving a Volvo S80, 2.9 liters, 200 hp, 6 zly. Bj, 10/98. Now I have the following problem: My on-board computer always displays the following messages: Brakes – Stop immediately, emissions – Stop safely – Start again. Maintenance – ABS required, maintenance STC required. The tacho fails and the car then drives only 40 km/h. Then I have to stop, restart and the problem is solved for a few minutes. I have the feeling that the problem occurs more frequently in warm weather than in cold weather. The Volvo dealer has read out the PC, cleaned the throttle unit and installed new software for it. However, the workshop computer shows: internal error throttle unit. Now I should buy a new unit. But what I don’t understand is the following: If the o.g. messages of my on-board computer are displayed, I can’t insert the 5th gear anymore, the return lights don’t go up and since yesterday the windows don’t go up automatically. This can’t all be related to the DK unit?