Good morning to everyone, to come straight to the topic: I drive so with 160km/h and cruiser on the AB, one comes from behind and wants to overtake well well I think, let him pass-give gas and pull to the right ==> nee, nee wrong, it must be called I want to give gas and pull to the right, and ?> nothing happens, short jerking and the tacho needle remains like nailed to 160km/h. Cruise out, nothing happens, gone off the gas (to 140km/h), then give gas again and <> nothing happens. Then at 140km/h the fun was over. After about 10 minutes the car was allowed to slip back to normal again. 2o minutes later change to another AB, on the slanting strip I wanted to get inside before the truck, thought speed remained at about 60km/h, box jerked a little, didn’t let itself be moved to accept the gas. Again about 5 minutes later everything was normal. No error.
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XC90 rear wheel bearing at the end
Not quite a year old and approx. 20,000 km driven and already strange sounds at speed 40-80 have adjusted with my Dickelch. Diagnosis of the : wheel bearing in the back must be changed. And I was not at all with the car in the terrain, but only good on the road. Is now a guarantee case, but I hope the problem does not appear all 20,000 km. Greeting Brian
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Cooling water away…but where?
Moin dear Volvo community For some time now, my elk has been suffering from a loss of cooling water. About 0.2 liters per 150km. Today, I lit up the engine compartment in the hope of finding a leak. Unfortunately, I have to say that I had just turned off the elk and that there were still splashes of water from the road in the engine compartment. Also, a pressure of the hoses did not produce any result. Now, of course, I have the fear of the cylinder head seal is no longer in order. However, I don’t have white steam from the exhaust. At the most when it’s cold. But I think that’s keeping itself within limits. Besides, it runs with LPG, it’s always steaming down anyway. The oil level behaves normal. Do you perhaps have an idea what you could do to exclude, for example, the cylinder head seal? Can you check this without disassembly everything? Can you see what might be done with the candles? Would you be nice if you could give me good advice.
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Engine check-up
Hello together! I switched to Volvo v70 1 TDI 140PS super car 250000 running year 1999. No bugs on highway ride etc. but engine check check lights! Goes out after warm start after some time and then on again. Error memory beu ATU says fuel fault or exhaust gas recirculation, protocol could not print out ATU, unfortunately. Have you had the error already? Motor check lights shine anyway quite gladly. Have covered lamp now because it is just very bright. Be happy to answer! Many greetings from HH
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C70 T5 TURBO E85 ETHANOL
Hi JUNGS, does anyone have experience with E85 admixture or PUR in our T5 engines??? Have read something in the VOLVO SPEED FORUM about: +30-40PS noticeably more, without retrofitting – especially CHIPGETUNTE are grateful, since the injection quantity as well as the charging pressure were raised yes Some say so, but those who tried it are probably pleased;-) Please tell me your experience around this topic, I would like to know already, on the one hand, save a bit but still more pressure in the boiler;-) P.S.: New BENZINFILTER is available to me, since the deposits become free in the contact line + motor! Best greetings, THEWOMITDEMGECHIPPTENEL DRIVERY
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Problems with V70 R AWD
Hello dear people. I’m new in this forum. Have a V70 R AWD BJ. 97 with 295,000 km. Vehicle ran so far without any problems. Until today on a splash tour first cool water temperature control ramp. Water on filled up. Light extinguishes. Then people trouble motor electronics open and does not go out. At home I rented an OBD II readout device from a buddy. This shows error PO 325 01/01. According to list this should be an electrical connection error at the tap sensor Zyl. 1. Now my problem which is Zyl. 1, which component is the tap sensor? Does someone know on this occasion if there is a repair manual for this vehicle. I would like to fix this problem myself. For good advice I would be grateful. By the way my last refueling 35 liters was already the cause? Thanks for the many tips Andreas
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After oil drop replacement: engine drains off, false ignitions.
Hello together, since today was such a nice weather I thought to myself: do times the oil trap and hoses. So said, but after assembly the engine starts directly the first time, but is immediately drunk. Also all further start attempts were in vain. If I give a lot of gas it stays on, but stutters and bangs (probably false ignitions…). As soon as I go off the gas, it sucks again and stinks to fuel. I checked so far: 1) Fuel and pressure on the rail are there, because if I press the valve (near the gas train) comes immediately fuel. 2) Ignition plugs are all mad and at least two (cylinders 3 and 4) are wet, so full of gasoline. 3) From the + pole of the battery has solved a cable, which goes down to the starter. Habs again, but did not bring any change. 4) Battery jammed and pole have to each other yet again. Bracht however also nix. 5) As long as I keep the engine running with “power” the MKL. So did NOT. I tipped to the battery.
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MKL lights up
Hello, yesterday it also caught me and believed me or not on Sunday I was still sitting in the Volvo and was glad that never a little bit of a noise indicated. My good guy has 269875 km down. Continued in the text, I stopped on Tuesday briefly at the tailor and 2 min. later, engine on and Zack the LAMBDALEUCHTE. I immediately bad mood off home and jammed battery. 1 hour later battery ran, engine on and light on. Since I have already read here and in another Volvoforum much about this MKL and their possible errors I was served. Since I had no bug to exchange a thousand parts and in the end did not reach anything, I drove to my free Volvo dealer on Wednesday. To him briefly explained what’s going on. Car turned off and 4 hours later my phone rang, “Auto finished, can be picked up.” My baby immediately fetched and 319€ changed time to the owner. Caputt was only my Lambdasonde! The lamp arrived without warning and also did not show any of my Volvo’s last fault. But I did not get a minimum of time in July.
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What was the most repair-intensive vehicle you had?
Hey you, since there is already a thread in which is asked what was your first car I would like to know what was your “repair-intensive vehicle” that you once had in possession? With me it was not the Omega but a Ford Fiesta (2) Bj82 80tsd km for 500DM which I had driven about 1 year and put in about 2500DM (workshop costs). It started with that the trouser tube had broken through, then a membrane which had the carburettor somehow opened and closed the leak. The engine vibration dampers had to be changed, the ignition coil was changed several times, so a capacitor cable (length 2m) was changed because the vehicle always stopped, the starter was changed and at the end was a parking link for the carburettor defective (had to do with the choke) so the carburettor was repeatedly flamed and the air filter melted. Then I put the box on the scrap and a neighbor of me in the place did not want to go around) but I did it all day.
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Krafftstoffpumpe
Hello my name is Jens habe with my Sunator B 3.0 Bj 87 following problem my Krafftsoffpump get no stoma fuse is i.o have the pump now bridged current from the back license is not the best solution but he ran someone has an announcement where the error could be