Blog

  • 2013 – Open (Tuning)

    Hey guys, have the first question right away, and that’s what the police won’t look so strict anymore, after the new regulation 2013, when you drive open, or with a tuning manifold – (2-stroke!) ? What can happen to you then with a control, or are the “punishments” also “harmless” or not? Will the green men even notice it with a control when you’re on the road with a tuning manifold? I mean those who don’t know how to do it… Can you explain it to me? LG

  • Switch bag – replacement searched

    Hoi, I changed my middle console yesterday, because the old one had a few breaks (and underneath the broken parts clacked in curves, one I did not find, of course, as I noticed this morning *klackerklacker* ). I had to find out that the frame, which was in the bottom of the old switch bag, was already broken and therefore the whole thing was glued only with sealant. Nu let it expand again, but the whole bag is discreetly over, why I Where do I get such a part best from? Skandix has nothing, Ebay was also low. If I get an “alternative bag” instead of an original, I get it easier over the stick (the third-party ones are often tied up at the top of the edge). Can the rubber cuff stay under it? Where can I get a new frame to plug in in in this case? Only from the friendly one? (which is guaranteed to have tens of quatrillion euro for it again – is yes (excl. a functional part but an optical part)

  • Hyosung gt 125 r pulls badly

    Hello, I have the following problem with my hyosung gt 125 r e3: If it is cold and you accelerate it does not pull properly up to about 8000 u/min afterwards it pulls for a short time better to then have power loss again. And sometimes at first it drives very slowly max. 100 kmh and pulls about 5-10 minutes very bad. In the morning after 2-3 minutes warm running I still do not get up the hail in the village, and from the village it drives at first only about 70 kmh. If it is warm however (morning after 15 minutes drive, or in the afternoon when it is warm after 5 minutes) she drives very well pulls and drives almost 140 kmh. Today it was very bad at about 10 degrees and rain I turned off from the work on a two-lane road in the inner town that goes there slightly uphill, there is 60 and I only got the first hill at 50, then it goes for a short time grade, then it has become better, and then when it went up again, she pulled almost as well as normal. he only starts with choce and runs the first time only with it, if I take it away too soon it goes off at the traffic light. In addition, the engine turns sometimes faster times more slowly and runs quite restless. Even if I hit the handlebar completely to the right it suddenly gives quite gas (ca 4-5000u/min) and if it has hit completely to the left it does not go at all. What do I have to do to get that into the grip? Air filter I once cleaned up, but it looks good but is from 20 09 and has been running since about 5-7000 kilometers. is that still ok or should I change the time? Carburettor to synchronize and clean up I do not dare myself. Should I have the carburettor cleaned and adjusted? Otherwise I have no idea what else I can do. I hope you can help me… Mfg Felix

  • How low does the bike have to be in order to drive safely? (too small -.-)

    Hello, I finally decided to make the A1 driver’s license. I wanted to buy an Enduro so much and looked at some models on the internet. My driving instructor then brought me to the hard ground of reality… For an Enduro I am much too small. I am a girl, not very heavy and only 1.65 m small. In the driving school I drive a chopper. I want to drive something like this later on GAR NO FALL. Also an athlete comes for me rather not I would like to have something in the direction of Enduro… Now I looked at the supermotos, which are a bit deeper than the enduros through the tires. At a dealer nearby I sat down on the Sachs ZZ and was thrilled by it. Even the price (3,200 euros) would be somehow possible. There was only this one problem again: sitting height 83 cm… I came to the ground with the toes and could keep the motorcycle in free standing. Also the descent fun The dealer immediately said that it fits everything and wanted to sell it to me immediately… It would even be possible to put the spring down and reduce the height a little bit. I was totally happy about it but the disillusionment came soon. Both my instructor and several acquaintances who ride the bike say that you MUST stand on the ground as a beginner with the complete foot, because otherwise you will tip the bike. i traffic lights etc. Now I don’t know what to do anymore. I really want to drive the Sachs ZZ, it’s even close to the price budget, but I’m afraid that I won’t be able to tame it later, fall over or something. You could put it through the lower spring, loosen the spring and possibly lower the cushioning of the seat, but is that enough? I’ll probably never be able to get up with the whole foot. At the moment (83 cm sitting height) I’m just standing up How far can the Sachs ZZ be made deeper? As a beginner you have to get up on the floor with the complete foot or rich toe tips? Are there lower alternatives for the Sachs ZZ (not more expensive than 2,500 euros!!!) Thank you Achja: This is the Sachs ZZ: http://www.sfm-bikes.de/bike.php?bike_id=363

  • 125ccm Yamaha yzf or Honda cbr?

    Hi people So briefly explains the situation: I’m just doing my A1 and I’ve already dealt a bit with the choice of my motorcycle and am clear for a Yamaha Yzf 125r. I think it looks great and technically it’s also quite ok. However, my parents asked a friend of them the two-wheeled mechanic is and he recommended me ne cbr 125. The reason is apparently with the engine. The cbr probably has a four-stroker which is not often tuned like the two-stroke he the yzf. Is that true? And does the technique really speak more against a yzf? Btw I heard that the yzf often has to be inspected and/or quickly breaks after a few thousand kilometers, which would be stupid, because the used machines usually already have a mileage of 20,000 KM. Well thank you already for answers

  • He’s pulling to the right!

    Hello! My V 40 hardly pulls noticeably to the right! It can only be felt on the track. But the steering wheel is absolutely quiet. (So no vibrations or so) It is laid deeper, with Eibach springs. (What I undo, at the next wheel change) And on the tires (front axle) are slight washouts in the profile. (inner side) The washouts, I thought, lie on the fall, which should normalize with normal springs again. But to the not exact track I have no idea! W He’s got experiences with it?

  • Volvo c70 t5 automatic Mkl+Ets lamp

    Hello dear Elchgemeinde, Will buy a c70 t5 automatic at 121.000km Bj2000, where the Mkl and the Ets lights up.Error reading resulted in turbocharger, overpressure sensor input low.The speed is stable when running empty and when driving slowly everything was okay.If you delete the error, the lights stay out.After switching off and on again, the lights light up again after a few seconds at the same time.What do you think it can be?

  • Wheels from XC90 to Volvo 850

    Hello Fit the rims from the XC 90 to the Volvo Kombi 850 2.5 20V, built in 03/1995. Both with a hole circle of 5 x 108. Which tyre size would be possible ? The wheel houses I would find as far as it would be necessary.

  • Purchase advice 850 2.5. 20V

    Hello, I’m about to buy a Volvo 850 2.5. 20V with manual transmission. Before I do this I wanted to make sure and inform you here. I wanted to get advice from you. I’m looking for a car for the next 1 to 1.5 years that will bring me reliably from A to B. I hope you can help me. Here are some data. The car is located at a gas station and has been offered for sale for some time. Built. 1994 Kilometersand 277000 Previous owners: 4 TÜV: 01 /2019 V-belt new Price: 850€ Condition is rather so lala… The rear bumper hangs. There are probably holders broken. (picture1) The dashboard does not look good in 2 places. Center console right and front passenger airbag. Glove compartment broken has been fixed with armored tape. Inside totally dirty… climate does not work. Rear lights totally white… In addition, the engine clacks when it is cold. As soon as the warm one hears nothing and the engine has a quiet run. And I have a loose S Chill found at the intake manifold from which some oil comes out. I have some pictures. I took a photo of the vehicle license once.

  • BUILDING Consultancy

    Good evening, dear people, as can be seen from my signature for some time, our company car is supposed to be gone. Why do I do that? Because my mother, who is the owner, has no time to take care of something like this. I can’t do anything wrong or give false promises anyway. I have a concrete question and a specific case until now. The first question relates to the fact that it is a company vehicle (which we buy cheaply from leasing *relatively*). If the company buys the vehicle and then it is sold: Must be stuck for defects? The vehicle is in impeccable condition, but with private individuals one never knows. In the case of dealers I still have the immediate complaint of defects in my mind, that would be a portable risk. There is also the option to buy the vehicle privately and then sell it, or how many dub There are cases in which the VAT is not passable? Another question on a specific case: someone called and wants to send pictures (they’re still coming!) to his car dealership. The boss wants to see pictures of it; the buyer wants to finance the car via the car dealership. I just don’t know why a car dealership has to be in between. It all seems a bit strange to me. Admittedly, however, it’s only because I don’t know why a car dealership needs to be in between. I am very grateful for any other tips, what to consider etc. pp of course! Thank you in advance