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Hello, short resolution of a small “problem”, which annoyed me from time to time with my IGS. Preliminary remark: The IGS has “only” a single central dosing and distribution valve and thus technically stands between the regulated Venturis and the currently usual fully sequential systems with its own dosing valve per cylinder. The system is NOT like the fully sequential according to the OBD characteristic field and instead has a completely independent, own simple field calculator r. Therefore, every better turf tractor should be operable with this system, but one does not benefit from the elaborate 4-6 dimensional parameters that the manufacturers have placed in the original OBD control. Phenomenon, as described in http://www.motor-talk.de/printthread.php?threadid=865882: Engine shows slight constant driving rucks or goes “beat-like” / very unsavory from the thrust-off into normal operation. If I then step the clutch, the idle gear is l (!) for about 1000-1200 UPM for seconds and drops to approx. 800 UPM after about 5 seconds. Typically, about 800 UPM would be the first stop and 700 as a “normal case”. For me, this feels like “clearly too fat mixture”. If I restart the system (e.g. a few seconds, start directly under gas and a few seconds of idle), everything is usually fine again. The phenomenon is gone, the idle speed drops rapidly to 800 UPM when the clutch is pedaled and the idle is after 5 Seconds with normal 700 UPM again. Not swinging, silky soft. At some point the problem comes back, sometimes it also works WITHOUT reboot of the system on its own. Cause? Unknown, at least I find no scheme. It also does not correlate with the outside temperature. It does not seem to be the opel typical exhaust control valve, in petrol operation everything is fine. Addendum: Phenomenon occurred when I drove directly on the highway and there in full-speed operation at quite the I noticed this “track” only when I had a different way to the highway by redirection. If the box was driven longer in the city, was a few times under gas at traffic lights / construction sites and had a few seconds clean idle phase, so the problem rarely occurred up to not at all. After the problem in the winter has annoyed me again more often (later switch to gas already on the “racing track” and I it to the retrofitter in two attempts nic Ht could show I got a programming device for my IG system and even after an observation phase played around some of the parameters [1] No, I wasn’t on the field, that didn’t allow the software in idiot mode without dongle. And the IGS had not had any big correction factors in active self-learning mode, so that seemed to be correctly programmed and correct by the retrofitter. But the solution was quite simple after a few test drives: The TPS Sensor (gas pedal or throttle valve position sensor) has an adjustable hyseresis. Apparently, the thing is designed as a two-point controller to not immediately interpret light fluctuations in the signal or gas foot as a new setpoint value and to avoid the Lamba control unnecessarily and unintentionally out of step. The hysteresis of the TPS was simply too large, that was all. One gave easily gas, through the large hysteresis the throttle valve has opened, but the na As soon as the hysteresis was clearly exceeded by gentle penetration of the pedal at some point and a new, now higher set-point was sent to the gas meter, the push was “back-like”, one actually jumped from too lean (Rosselklappe further open and still not after This was especially noticeable in the small passage during a slippery drive due to a rather rough thrust. And sometimes a constant driving truck could also cause, because the lambda probe immediately emaciated after the overgreasing and one took the foot instinctively from the gas. With a significantly smaller, about riddled TPS hysteresis the thing now drives completely well at low speeds, also the overgreasings are away since the M The system in adaptive mode obviously provided the TPS signal, which was determined from the Lambda by the too large hysteresis “smuggling” signal, with speed-dependent correction factors, which then went out to “too fat”. And what happened with a restart on its own. With the narrower hysteresis I have so far not got any errors about too fat/too lean and the fuel consumption has also gone down a bit. From 10.5 to 9.8l. 8.3l was I’m going to keep an eye on this. Anyway, I’m thrilled how sensitive the box is now at low speeds on the gas. The gasoline operation should really cut off a disc, especially with a cold engine. And no, that doesn’t mean that everyone should buy a programming system and amusingly stick around the parameters until nothing goes on. However, who with a LandiRenzo or other Gasanl a similar phenomenon with constant drivage trucks at low speeds (under 200 rpm) is now given a hint, where the retrofitter of the least mistrust can tickle out even more comfort or a little less consumption. A too small TPS hysteresis can be avoided at any rate, because then the Lambda regulation is disturbed unnecessarily (which also means more consumption or even “too lean”). I don’t know where the optimum is with my box. Not yet. Almost all newer ones n OBD systems should not actually have these phenomena, as the throttle valve position is read out via OBD Digital and pre-smooth. My IG system still has an analog grip on the throttle valve pot. /GaryK [1] For 20 years I have been programming from PC via small controllers almost everything that has a PC connection and know me quite well in thermodynamics as well as measurement/control technology. Therefore touch anxiety was exactly zero and I believe to know what I am doing. Yes, it is my risk. programming is also kind of fun 😉

Hello, yesterday I accidentally put 5L of petrol into a VW Golf 1.9 tdi bj 2004, then I was recommended (fuelling station, customers) to fuel diesel. So I put 5L on 41 liters of diesel – residual diesel in the car about 5L. After that I drove 400km already, it goes on and off. Please help me!! Could something else go wrong? Did I do something wrong?? It’s not my car, that makes it even worse.

In Switzerland, collisions are currently taking place because German vehicles are blocking main lines along the border in front of petrol stations, as too many are waiting for cheap fuel. This is because the fuel is currently much cheaper in Switzerland. What amazes me about the fact that the constantly changing fuel prices in Germany are still further away from the theoretical prices resulting from the costs than the Swiss price changes only once a day. Somehow I have the impression that a “market price” fairytale game is staged for German customers. So to speak, an online game with mobile apps “Search the cheapest fuel price” with which you send the vehicles through the area, in order to increase the sales by artificially caused multi-kilometres and distract from translated prices. The current prices have nothing to do with market competition. I suspect that a few organizations in the background pull the strings. Sons prices in Switzerland and Germany could not have been so far from each other.

Does anyone have experience with heaters under alk? How does the burner react (it even reacts)? Does something have to be upgraded (if yes, what)? Thank you!

moin! have been following the theme lpg for almost a year now and in about 4-6 months I would like to buy another car. am audi fan and since the new models are almost all FSI, only older models come into question. my selection: 1. A6 4.2 4B 2. RS& 4.2 4B 3. A8 4.2 current model (at first my info was installed after still without FSI) that the normal 4.2 V8 can be easily converted, I have already read from several users here. however, you rarely find something about the RS 6. does someone have info about this? is it true that it only works up to max 50ps per cylinder? does someone know up to which year of construction the A8 (current model) were built without FSI? and when is there finally the possibility to upgrade FSI? that would be so fat! well, a dream. many thanks for your feedback LG bbc

Hello together, maybe I could buy a Focus ST 225 HP. Since the consumption of the vehicle is relatively high I would like to convert the car to Gas/LPG. Now the car has a Volvo engine. Now the question is a conversion with this engine/vehicle would be possible without any problems? I would like to know from which system you recommend and also where you should have it installed and what costs. Thank you in advance…