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  • No Name Roller Online Shipping?

    Hello guys, I’m looking for an everyday scooter in the price range up to 700 euros. I have already loved a Vespa PK 50, which a dealer offers here for 650 with warranty. Unfortunately I have to admit that I am unfortunately a noob with regard to scooters so far. I am therefore afraid to have a groschengrab treasure turned on me. Of course there are also many other used scooter offers in the price range. However, these are mostly from private and o I have now seen new machines at Yatego and other online platforms, but I don’t know what to think of them. e.g.http://www.yatego.com/…/…3065dee893_8,retro-roller-50-model-metro What do you think of such cheap offers from the online marketplace? Good alternative for the not so savvy hobbyist or plastic toy? Lg Catincka

  • Gilera Runner Purejet (2008) Kickstarter retrofit ?

    First hello to everyone.Drive a Gilera Runner Purejet 50 (Bj.2008)The scooter is an injection.I want to retrofit the kick starter now for safety.Battery provides enough energy for the petrol pump but it is not enough for the start of the vehicle.In such cases the kick starter would be an alternative solution.The hole for the subsequent installation of the kick starter is already available on the Vario cover from factory. inbau infos about needed material your experiences etc. Thank you for the answers! mfg)

  • Purchase advice

    Hello, I want to issue max. 1000 Eur for a used scooter (50ccm) with a minimum of 1 year warranty. I have already been to several dealers, all of which are from the China manufacturers, but also from European brands (e.g. Pagasus) because you can only get very hard on spare parts (only valid for Pegasus) and the quality seems to be significantly worse (applies to China manufacturers and Pegasus). Supposedly Peugeot, Piaggio, Aprilia etc. are the top brands, where you can focus on the quality v Now, however, I read everywhere that there are ever more quality defects, especially with the brands. A consequence of the price pressure from China is apparently a neglect of the quality… I want to go to university, shopping and sports with the scooter every day. Daily driving distance should be 5-8km. Which brand or model can you recommend to me? Or perhaps it makes sense to invest 500 Eur more and a new device with 2 years warranty z u buy? I have read a lot of good about Kymco. Although a Taiwanese safe manufacturer, but apparently with very good quality. Can you confirm that? I am grateful for any help!!! Best regards, Lengy

  • Your opinions on 50 ccm scooter, MP3 LT or Smart

    Hi there, I’ll turn to you to get some opinions. History: For a few months I’ve been driving my car to the office every day (linear 8 km, city traffic about 10 km and BAB 20 km). So far I’ve been driving the BAB route with my car. However, it’s always there and my car consumes around the 8 l super. Both bothers me. Publicly, because the connection is very bad – almost 1 h easy. I don’t want to bike either, because Industri egebiet with many trucks (is too dangerous for me, it’s not because of the laziness – I’m a road biker and MTBler). As an idea at least for the warmer season a scooter came to me. Since I am still too young I can drive only 50 ccm (car driver’s license stop). But the things drive also only 45 kmh. I am constantly overtaken in the city traffic, right? Here in the industrialgebit is well and gladly also sometimes 70 kmh (by the way in Frankfurt Fechenheim Hanauer Landstraße – fall Since last year there is this MP3 LT from Piaggio, which you can also drive with a car driver’s license. However, the thing as 400 also costs 8000 Euro – the 300 variant is a few hundred Euro cheaper. That wouldn’t be bad – I could also drive BAB, both variants drive over 100 kmh and my partner could also drive with it. Almost such a kind of second car. However, the MP3 LT also likes to consume 4 l Super (according to test reports). Where we are from here). again on the next topic are: At 8000 Euro stand-in price and 4 l consumption I can buy myself almost again a small car like Smart or C1. I could drive that then also in winter. Would here quite gladly hear Euro opinions straight to the two scooters – especially to the 50 ccm in the city, because scooter I have never driven before. Many greetings, kindi

  • The best scooter recommendation for 1.90 size sought. 🙂

    Hello scooter friends! Rising fuel prices and rising self-reason make me think about buying a scooter for my daily work path. Work path would be 7 km back and forth. Well… and sometimes some city tours. My concerns about scooters would be that I am 1.90 tall and have long legs from the body geometry. Now I would be interested to know which scooter types would be in question at all. That I then also have to own pros is clear. I’d like to narrow down my search a little bit. At the price I had thought of a maximum of 1500 euros. I’d be happy if someone here had useful tips for me. MFG Cleandevil

  • Battery after charging no full voltage

    Moin together, now everyone will think, “one more battery question”. Let’s see: Built-in is an AGM battery VARTA or JCB 75Ah 420A 800A in an Audi A4 B9. The battery tester from Ancel tells this here (picture). I then tried to charge the battery with a CTEK MXS 7.0 over the contacts in the engine compartment (not directly over the poles, and battery is in the trunk anyway). Bulk phase went through within 10 minutes. Absorption phase takes 4-5 hours. mmt and next morning tested with multimeter: still 12.35V resting voltage – as before. I will start with the Battery Guard (see in the background from the picture). Lima delivers enough: 15V in idle – but a little bit ok. What to do, said Zeus? 1. Buying a new car battery: laugh, that’s not what it’s about 2. Reassemble car battery and charge it directly: yes, you can do it, only has the fun to work as described by Audi. In addition, there is a warranty on the car and I have there’s another “invoice” open. Does any of you have any idea what it might be about?

  • After oil change problems

    Good morning, I changed the oil at my car (Twingo C06) last year. Now I have problems that the car is stuttering quite violently when giving gas and this is getting worse and worse. If I check the oil level by rod, the oil level is exactly in the middle of the scale. I first thought there was something broken like throttle valve, spark plugs, … Now I have unscrewed the lid of the oil pan and there is everything at the top with white fat. I pull the stick out, but is quite normal there I look through the hole through the fat, but I don’t see any oil at all and it looks like there’s no oil in it. What kind of fat is that and how does that come about?

  • Can it happen that the cruise control blocks the brake pedal?

    I had the situation two times last time with a rental car (Kia with circuit) that I was driving with cruiser highway, and the brake pedal could not pass through – it seemed somehow blocked. I immediately pulled the hand brake without trying for a long time, and the car (acted at 80km/h as I imagined a full pressure with pedal, so with something slingling) to stand up. The first time with approx. 80km/h, the second time 20 minutes later with 30km/h. Two interpretations: 1. I was tired, it was a rental car, I accidentally kicked next to it, and the foot was still half on the gas and half on the brake (or somehow oblique on the pedal) somehow wrong. 2.With the car something didn’t agree. Against 1 speaks that I have been driving the car for a week, for many years regularly different cars drive, and something like that has never happened to me. But is 2 at all possible, so that the brake pedal for some technical reason not sofor t is going through properly?

  • Squeaking brakes – TÜV?

    Servus! At the beginning I have to admit that I’m pretty much the last person to know cars. But I’m totally unsure and would be happy if you could tell me your opinions on the following issue: I’m driving a Mercedes A-Class. About 2-3 months ago the brake pads were exchanged, because this small screen told me that brake wear is taking place. The new brake pads are not original Mercedes brakes, but rather rather a bit cheap (as I understand it). e) and was installed by a buddy. After that the display was gone and everything was good. Unfortunately it started to squeak while braking, otherwise however no faults. According to buddy no big problem. Then I had to go to the TÜV and was afraid that the something was faulted and I had to pay a lot. Everything examined, nothing at the brakes determined, but 1-2 other defects. I then fixed that, however, has passed too much time (private unfortunately some things happened) and now I’m a little late for the re-show (is that so?). I know, now everything can be checked again and it gets unnecessarily expensive again, my bad luck. The brakes squeak now a little more than last time. My question now: If they squeaked last time, but the function was apparently spotless, then I can get through this time with squeaks? Or do you think that it was “only lucky”? I was told that squeaking is no problem at the TÜV and if I vo This time it will probably work out for a month. Nevertheless, I’m kind of scared and it’s a bit embarrassing to entertain the hall through a loud squeaking. 🙂 Maybe someone wants to add his mustard to it…

  • Why wide brake pedal in automatic mode?

    Moin, is a banal question, but I can’t find a reasonable answer to that. Why do automatic vehicles have a wider brake pedal than a switchcar? It’s clear with a switchcar that the space is missing and you might get the brake pedal when you dome it. But that doesn’t explain why automatic vehicles have a wider brake pedal. Especially nowadays, where the strategy with as many equal parts as possible is used to reduce the costs. As I see it, this is already e Ever so, so no new invention or relic from ancient times. Does anyone have a plausible explanation for this?