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Moin Bin SR beginner and have placed a Yamaha SR 500 2J4 Bj. 82, approx. 35Tkm. On this I put a little hand and converted to CafeRacer. The engine was overhauled due to long service life about 20 J. by the previous owner about 500km ago, i.e. cylinder honing, pistons with oversize…. In the carburetor all membranes are new and it has been cleaned, the vacuum petrol tap works as it should, it is an open K&N LuFi installed. Now my problem, when the little one is cold jumps si e mostly at the first kick to the choke I don’t have to press it half, but if it is warm it is almost not to start. Have already all trick to start incl. warm start button, a little gas…. tried and was already in the SR 500 forum on the search, but the little one simply doesn’t want, if it is colder then it starts again. Idle running, running behavior and passage are ok. It is an iridium candle installed which has improved the cold start very much, candle image is t brown only candle foot is black. I have already measured the LiMa by, cold about 20° between brown – black should 330 Ohm is 311 Ohm, red – black should 335 is 317 Ohm, brown – red should 5 Ohm is 7 Ohm, in warm condition (oil has 80°) brown – black 397 Ohm, red – black 404 Ohm, brown – red 7 Ohm, should also be OK? Does anyone have an idea???

My DT 50 MXS unfortunately causes problems. It rotates cleanly high up to about 80%, but then the rest is missing. It looks like you are missing fuel on top. It’s all 100% original, also the main nozzle suction nozzle etc. The mixing screw is set exactly according to manual, 1.5 turns out, the needle is in place 2. What I have done so far: I cleaned the carburettor twice, all nozzles are free, every hole. The float is set correctly. The air filter is like new. The connector between the carburetor and the air filter box is right… I removed the cracker and exhaust, was quite oily, I cleaned it coarsely, but I am almost sure that it is not the source of the fault. In my opinion, the spark plug looks ok, brownish, a little rusty on the outside, maybe it runs a little too fat. But it’s always a bit grim, but it’s a little greasy, so I’ve sealed it now. Not at the back, and I definitely drove the DT 50 already fatter and it ran normal… It’s striking that when I start the moped now, it’s short the first two, three times when I turn up gas give, but then no more. It’s like a lack of 10-20 % power. It doesn’t run completely bad, you can drive. But normally the DT 50 MX (is my third) always run around 60, and it runs like that only 50. And at some point it already ran better. Somehow says My gut feeling that the problem is in the carburetor, but I have no idea what else to test… do you have an idea?

Hi I’m new in the forum.Great posts, but nothing that helped me.Unfortunately. Therefore my question to you: Normally my XV starts immediately at the push of a button.When I start off always.But after a smoking break I have a huge problem. For 3 years! — is at just this break and the pressure on the starter switch only a crack ( once ) to hear.Then I press 2-4 times it spins hard, but then jumps on. a new magnet switch didn’t succeed. So the error is somewhere else. I also have the same problem when I hit the car battery. Only a crack. So it’s not because of an empty battery. I turn a gear in and then push the gear slightly against the center of gravity and then start, the magnet switch pulls through and the machine jumps on. Would be very grateful if someone who had the same problem before “I could give you a hint.

Hello together, my name is Kevin and I drive a Yamaha XVS 650 4VR from 1997. History: I decided to take a break at the beginning of the season to expand my steering switch and have black powder coating. I came back here a little over a month ago and built it all up again. Ignition turned on and noticed it doesn’t start as always the petrol pump (think it’s the petrol pump?), nothing at first. Everything works, turn signal, brake light, off and main light, look e da Hupe is not working. OK I thought to myself later. Full of euphoria E starter pressed and with terrified noticed, nothing. As if the switch was death. OK I thought to myself battery is too weak, bought new and same game as before..everything goes except horn, gasoline pump does not start and e starter does not make a muck. I then read some rum and there it was said it can lie completely on the Killswitch. Thought OK sounds logical, because when I put in there something broke and I I may have thought he has a wackler. So new steering switch got worried. Everything built in full of joy but see there, same problem as before. I slowly despair because unfortunately on the part of Mottorad I also don’t know so well. Gasoline is present in the tank, everything fuses in order (also nothing burns) and battery is new. Killswitch should be fine, because when operating I hear a relay. Maybe someone has an idea about what it might be? And I’m sorry w it is an obvious mistake but as I said, I don’t know myself so well. Thank you in advance.

Hi together… I have something to change before my FZ8. Would you have nice if you had n some suggestions. Planned are: rear silencer, brake and clutch lever, mirror, rims (possibly water transfer pressure… or rim stickers…Color?? ) LED indicator front, footrests… Am not entirely conclusive to me if I should partially be mounted in gold (because of the suspension fork) … especially concerning the clutch and brake levers as well as the feet. Or rather stay with blue/black… Greeting Andy

Hello to the municipality, I am just driving A and have the opportunity to get a YAMAHA XV 500 SE in a very good condition. Since you find so little on the internet I thought I asked here for the reliability and general experience reports of this moped. And do you mean a trip from Bavaria (Franken) to Berlin is possible without any problems ? Many greetings