hi an alle bin neu hier. brauchen ihrer help bei ner kaufsscheidung.bock is too far away to quickly add.that’s why I’m asking for your opinion.please look at http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?… and then email me.
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Stand-up bolts from 🙁
Moin together, Moped is Sportster 883 Hugger, built in 2000 Unfortunately, the standing bolt, which acts as a bracket from the front exhaust pan, is broken inside – could pull the bolt out after loosening the brake pedal forward. I haven’t opened up yet, since I don’t have a replacement bolt anyway. But if I look at the breakpoint (only to see max. 2 threaded passages) I fear that there is no “material” left for the case to grab the rest. The cleanest solution would then be to drill – cut left thread, turn hexagon screw in and out. A.) I have no threaded cutting kit and B.) I am not sure if the standing bolts are secured so firmly (glued) that this stub can then be loosened like this. Does someone have something better in it? e.g. leave stubs in it, from the inside through you sprocket cover a short screw through and done – just fix it on the inside then? ?Thank you very much for your suggestions Question 2: If I want to take down the pinion cover, separate brake pedal from the brake cylinder – unscrew the brake cylinder from the cover – unscrew the 3 fixing screws of the lid and then (completely with brake pedal and rest attachment?) take off. Or do I have to separate the brake cylinder from the brake line? @ KW: thank you in advance for pointing out a proper workshop manual. I know it is very useful, I know about my Honda – but: I still have none, maybe enough in this case also tips. Greetings Lone
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Mini-Van SUPPORTED!
Good day, this is my first post here. I’m looking for a reliable minivan. Drive a Renault Megane Scenic of the first series, where I especially like the space available. What I don’t like is that I have to go to the workshop for a long time, because the brakes are constantly making specs. If it rains, the mill shows zero braking effect, the car is standing in the parking lot for two days without moving, the brakes are fixed on the disc. For weeks not driven, you have to worry if it still starts at all, the Brembeläge then grind when driving for the next 50 km. In the workshop you can find no significant defects: braking effect is normal, that with the fixed baking of the brakes as well, would also occur with other manufacturers, the battery shows great measured values. But I am annoying, so much that I am ready for the vehicle change. What I expect from the next: Modular space offer behind the first row of seats, seats foldable and removable, vehicle loading floor should then offer a level. Most important criterion for me, there must be two mountain bikes (with dismantled front wheels) standing upright after the length in it, if I just change or remove a rear seat. This solves the old megane playing, the newer ones unfortunately only with small bike sizes. So I am looking for something in similar size up to maximum VW Sharan or Ford Galaxy. Who knows each other from un d can give me recommendations, also knows which car types are without car repair? Thank you!
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Solid car up to 500€
Moin moin, on the other hand, I’ve been driving a 15 year old VW Golf 4 with 75 hp for 3 years now. Now I’ve been thinking about buying a new car in the near future. Problem with this is that on the one hand I don’t have a lot of money available, on the other hand the price should be somewhere at 500€ and on the other hand I need a solid car, with which I can drive every day without any problems. Since my golf is very spartan, I would like to have the following extras: – Central locking – electr . Window lifter – air conditioning Besides, I would like to have a little bit more power, i.e. at least 100 HP it should be. Since I want to drive the car for a while, of course, he should not have too much down so best in the range of 100Tkm. Do you have any ideas? I thought about a Seat Ibiza, Leon, Skoda Fabia, VW Polo. What do you think would fit well for my requirements?
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VW or Mitsubishi
Hello, I’ve been looking for a new mobile kit for a couple of weeks, as my current Italian schleuter unfortunately kept what the usual sayings have been promised (error in Allen..). Since the movie “2Fast2Furious” I have the Mitsubishi Lancer evolution in my memory and always meant that I would get one like this. Now I have slowly collected about 15,000€, and the thought of buying an Evo VIII or IX come back into my head again and again. That should be the A Uto have (most important): # Reliable # <100,000km # >120hp # 4/5 door benefits of car’s… # Daily (work): 10km – 80% city – 20% country road # Often (tank Ö): >60km – 70% highway – 20% country road – 10% city After a long time I had taken the following cars into the narrow selection: 1. Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII or IX (gbr.) 2. VW Golf VI 1.4TSI 120hp or 160hp (gbr.) 3. VW Golf VI 2.0TSI – GTI (gbr.) 4. Kia Ceed (new) 5. Audi A4 B8 1.8TFSI 120hp or 160hp (gbr.) I have removed the Kia (too new -> high price drop in the first three years) and the Audi (very high sales costs – expensive wear parts…) from the list. Thus, VW and Mitsubishi remain. In the VW’s I have therefore chosen the GTI, as it offers much more with the “low” additional costs compared to the 1.4TSI (performance, equipment, …).Final selection: 1. Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII or IX 3. VW Golf VI 2.0TSI – GTI Zwisc I can’t quite decide on the two cars. Here are the data that differ (which is important): # Verbauch: GTI-9L /EVO-13L # Drive: GTI-Front /EVO-Allrad # Construction: GTI-Compact /EVO-Limousine In addition, the Evo’s in the insurance cost a lot more than a GTI. Now I am of course in front of the choice, I buy an exotic and have some fun (which lasts for how long..?) with the car, or rather a “reason” car with a little more power? If I go after the moto “drive what not everyone has”, the Evo is the better choice. I hope you can help me decide something, and write a few things that I should keep in mind.
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Restoration of the chassis – G class Wolf
Hello, I have received an offer for a complete restoration of the chassis and would like to hear your opinion on it. All works are carried out with the utmost care and all parts are original Mercedes parts. The aim is to put the chassis into a state as if it had just come out of the factory – both visually and technically. Here is once roughly everything that should be done on the car. All parts galvanizing and powder coating of all components replacement of all bushings renewal of fuel lines replacement of brake hoses renewal of brake pads and discs overhaul of brake calipers installation of a new relief valve overhaul of the locking cylinder (4×4) replacement of all bearings complete overhaul of the differential front and rear renewal of the cross joints impact of the cardan shaft (if necessary) change of all oils in the differential inlet u new shock absorber and springs 6 cm hight Price: 7.300 € ± 1,000 € (depending on condition and effort) What do you think of this offer? Thank you for your opinion. Lg
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Disappointed….by the G 300 TD Model 2000
Hello! I drove a G 300TD/Shortly today PROBE and was NEGATIV surprised… Consumption mainly highway cutting speed 93km/h at 15,2ltr.. No full throttle only to rock there… Slightly wobbly on the VA at 100-110km/h then give itself back..easy poltern at the rear part… EZ 12/99 85tsd km 1st hand 18″ ex factory TOP condition with all EXTRAS…. Acceleration from 30/40 to 100km/h is indeed SUPER bad….from 110km/h it goes again… So besides the seat positioin has mi Is the driving characteristics better with the long..???? How does the driving difference between long/short over..? How high is the consumption…?? at the 500s…? 400s..CDI ….?? Man Which model should I buy.. or better bury my G…. I am now totally undecided… Thanks in advance for your information….
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Guarantee – New vehicles
Hello The factory guarantee applies to my SAAB for two years. After that there is an additional guarantee of one year in Germany, which, if I am informed correctly, can be concluded within the period of the factory guarantee for 250 euros. My dealer was quite surprised when I asked him to obtain such an additional guarantee. His request at SAAB BENELUX in Belgium, then showed that there is no such thing for Luxembourg and Belgium. My question to you, there is this additional guarantee and how i If there is this warranty extension, I will of course not be satisfied with the information from SAAB Benelux, especially since I noticed this year in Spain that SAAB offers four years of factory warranty there for free, on all models. To my astonishment I also had to find today that this SAAB ASSITANCE applies to me only one year, if I remember correctly so had the.moose with its engine damage both, a extended warranty and three years SAAB Assistance. Gruss Luxi
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Saab 9-7x vs. Volvo XC90
I think the Saab looks better. In the case of the Volvo, I am disturbed by these grey plastic walls. In addition, the Saab, because it is based on the Chevy Trailblazer, will certainly be more cross-country. Finally, the 300 hp V8 is exactly what the XC90 faction has been waiting for for years, isn’t it? For this, the Volvo may have the nicer interior and is certainly better on the road. So, the D our Swedish friends from the Volvo Forum are of course welcome! Greetings, Philip
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Massive rust problems at Dacia Logan
Hello, I drive a Dacia Logan (first registration 07/2010). I bought the car as a new car at the time. In the meantime it has 144,000 km on the hump. Up to now I had no major “motor” repairs and I was always very happy with the car. The only thing that made me a little skeptical was that it started to rust easily on the tank cover, on the trunk cover and on the wheel runs about three years ago. The rust got stronger from year to year. After a few months, the rust came through again and now the wheel runs are completely rusted. Almost everything around the tank lid is rusted through and the trunk lid is also getting “browner”. Last week, I was at the TÜV Pickerl in the workshop and I learned that the underbody is starting to rust. The repair work for the TÜV Pickerl was carried out in the workshop. TÜV Pickerl would come this time at roughly 1700 to 2000 euros. Motorically and also from the clutch and steering he is still top! I was also told, selling brings nothing more, either let it be directed or on the scrap yard with it… Now I need your help: 1. Is this really possible that a car rusts completely after only 9 years? 2. Would you do the expensive repair or let the car scrap? 3. Brings welding over with so much rust Are you having similar problems with Dacias? Thank you in advance for many answers. LG Ewald from Graz