Hello, I got acoustic insulation (foam as in sound studios) now. wanted to ask if this is enough to dam or if you prefer to stick bitumen under it? mfg
Blog
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Mazda MX 5 Year of manufacture 98 NB II
Hello, I don’t know any more…I bought me a Mazda MX 5 4 weeks ago. Now the following… brakes were made … then I got the car again and he didn’t pull any more… no matter which gear I don’t get off the hook! Was this morning at a Mazda dealer who couldn’t tell me what is…then I was at the second Mazda dealer who told me then…ohhhhhhh that’s the KAT without looking at him… I’m still at a workshop of my Vert Rough driving… we looked and did and did… we looked at the spark plugs… plug-in…usw…the car was very hot underneath very hot!!! What can it be? The pants….seam was also made two weeks ago…I forgot to mention… I have no idea what to do now… The Friendly Lord from the workshop of my trust told me to change the spark plugs…could it be because of it? the slumps and the kerz look very new! PLEASE PLEASE and look forward to your feedback. LG
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Mazda 323F 12/01: Climate “wax contact” at 2nd blower stage ?
Hello, more and more often have a problem with my climate: When I turn on the climate at 2nd blower level, it happens that the control lamp in the air conditioner switch (A/C) goes on and off. I checked this. The blower continues to work undisturbed on the 2nd level. I then went around the car and then “heard” determined that the air conditioner also goes on and off. I can influence this by leaving the blower switch on the 2nd level, le Then the flashing stops, not always. As I said, only on the 2nd blower stage, on the other blower stages everything works perfectly. I have at the moment passed to operate the climate with blower level 1 or 3. But that is probably not a permanent state. Stage 1 is sometimes too little and stage 3 is actually almost always a bit too much. Stage 2 would actually be right.. Can this have to do with the blower switch? After all, the blower itself functions as if it were moving. ndfrei.. Go to info: The car has only run 26,000 km, “Opa previous owner” has probably used the climate almost never. And I also do not use it sooo much. Only on a little longer tours.. For shopping around the corner does not make any climate.. Will say, there can actually not be a mechanical wear somewhere? Maybe you have an idea.. Thanks and greetings.
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Surface rust Underbody Mazda 5 CW Year of construction 2014?
Hello, I have bought a used MAZDA 5 CW, vehicle is in an absolute top condition. I could not find any defects at all and the dealer was friendly, even changed the brakes because of the rostrand, new TÜV and inspection done. I am very pleased with the car. What makes me stuttery I look under the car, I see a lot of superficial rust e.g. on some axles / joints. Also on the thresholds below is superficial rust. It is not dramatic, With the screwdriver test nothing is through, only superficial. Has my Renault e.g. also. But my BMW E60 is already 18 years old, BJ 2004 and does not have such a thing. The car is already significantly older and has run clearly more, but does not have the slightest superficial rust. However, the BMW has cost a lot of the Mazda, even the used 5 at that time has cost 5x more than the Mazda. Normal? Thanks and many greetings.
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Experiences cavities/underfloor (wax/fat)
Hello, I finally managed to motivate myself to make my Jetta 2 Flott again, also because I finally have an engine for it, from a Vento accidenter. Conversion is all P&P. Everything is cleaned nicely and made chic again before the installation! But I just do EVERYTHING myself. I only think all the time about how I should treat the cavities and the underbody. Rust is almost no problem at all on the car for its 34 years, light edge rust only available that I I don’t want to have a fundamental discussion about what’s better now, I’d just like to know how you’re doing it, I don’t think there’s the “Holy Grail” there, which is the all-healing medicine now. I was thinking about fat (fluid film or Maik Sanders) for cavities and everything you can hardly get later. Underfloor I would have thought of wax from the spray cartridges and thus one thing. I protect everything. Of course, it would have to be repeated every few years, but that should be the least problem, vehicle would not be driven in winter anyway. I look forward to your experiences!
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Parkrempler
Hello I went to work today a workmate driving backwards in my a7… I have to appreciate the damage to the expert… Would you like to calculate the fictitious… my question knows how high the damage is? If I only get 1000€ for this, then I would rather have it repaired at audio! Maybe someone here has an approximate estimate for me!? Fenders are slightly pressed in at the edge…
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O2 probe oldtimer – which fits?
In the upcoming engine overhaul, a nut is welded in by the workshop, so that afterward the ignition/gasifier (SU-H2) can be adjusted correctly by the test device. My idea is to install a permanent probe later and determine the ratio via the voltage that the probe provides. As I understand it, the probe needs a preheater (12V positive earth available) and probably deliver a linear flattening of 0 to 1V. If this is confirmed here. the value would have to be verifiable with a simple measuring instrument.
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i3 eDrive35L presented
The first all-electric BMW 3 Series specifically for the Chinese market is available. Compared to the standard model of the 3 Series, the i3 has an 11 cm longer wheelbase.Special features BMW Gen5 eDrive drive components BMW OS8 Digital Key (first in the 3 Series) BMW Brilliance Automotive Ltd. plant in LydiaTechn.Data Length: 4.872 mm Wheelbase: 2.966 mm Max. power: 210 kW Max. torque: 400 Nm Acceleration from 0 – 100 km/h: 6.2 s Energy consumption (CLTC*): 14.3 kWh/100 km Range (CLTC*): 526 km Capacity of the high-voltage battery (gross/net): 70.3 kWh / 66.1 kWh Max. charging power: 95 kW (DC), 11 kW (AC) Charging time 10 – 80% (DC fast charge): 35 minutes range after 10 minutes Charging with DC max.: 97 km Luggage compartment volume: 410 litres * CLTC stands for “China Light-Duty Vehicles Test Cycle” (Chinese test cycle for passenger cars).
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Make a car like “winter party”?
Hello together, winter is once again at the door and I am currently wondering how I can optimally prepare my seat for the winter (beyond tyre changes and wiping water with frost protection). Here are a few details: – Manufacturer ? Seat – Type ? Leon 5F – Color Midnight Black / Mythschwarz – Metallic (j/n) ? yes – Age ? approx. 4 years – Care history in a few words, like e.g. „Until now approx. every 3 weeks washing system, 1x a year hand polish and wax 1-2 times a month, hand wash. I haven’t used polish / wax so far. In winter hardly any care or only hand wash when it’s a little warmer outside. I never use the washing machine. – Description Condition, like e.g. “Many washing system strips, in front insects burned in, about 3cm long scratches in bonnet, wheel runs made of plastic bitten in sunlight distinct holograms or fine and partly also some bits of scratches everywhere on the varnish. 2-3 slightly deeper Kr atzer in the glass on the windscreen. Various insect residues in the front. Some stone blows on the bonnet, however, all worked with paint pen. On the underfloor a bit of rust has formed in some places. – If necessary targeted photo(s) of defect(s) that I am supposed to be removed Unfortunately, I do not have at the moment and the car is currently too dirty to detect the damage clearly. However, on request, it is possible to submit photos. – Budget: What do you want maximum for the coming A – Does a professional paint preparation (approx. 300-500EUR) come into question? Yes – Does the purchase of a polishing machine (plug socket!) with corresponding professional means in question (several hundred EUR, but lasts several years if necessary) ? No – Do you regularly drive through a washing system and have this further on, o Is this a question of hand wash ? No – Where do you come from ? (approximate region is enough!) Märkischer Kreis In general, my plan so far was to have the car prepared and sealed properly. Does that make sense just before the winter, or should I rather wait until the spring with it? What about, for example, an underbody seal or the like, so that no more rust forms? Unfortunately, I can hardly assess what is really useful now, what might be useful? I just want to keep the car as good as possible and avoid that rust is formed at a young age and that environmental influences are added to the paint or other parts of the vehicle. Thank you very much in advance!
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Textile wash in Nuremberg?
Hello, who knows a good textile wash road in the Nuremberg area? On the black varnish you can always see slight traces at the brush wash roads. With my TT I have no desire for it. Only where can I find a good wash road? Hope you can help me. Thank you Marc-Michl