Hello, I have a general question about car financing. Since I have always paid my cars in cash before, I don’t quite understand the end of the financing. In order to calculate it easier, I now take rather rounded fantasy numbers. I bought a new A1. This over 24 months financed with a deposit of 10,000€. Rate e.g. 400€/month. Rest debt after 2 years 15,000€. That would mean after 2 years a sum of 19,600€ which I have paid. If I did not do that, I would not be able to pay n understand correctly, can I now pay the 15,000€ on it and the car belongs to me, or, I return the car and then get something for it? The residual value minus the 15,000€ residual debt or how? So if the car has a residual value of e.g. 20,000€ after 2 years, the 15,000€ that I still have open will be deducted from it and will get 500€. Is that so correct? So I would have paid 14.600€ for a car that I was allowed to drive for two years and what I don’t even belong to in the end t. And this KM-statement, which are in the contract, are then still included, so that I possibly get more or less money than the 500€? Thanks for an info
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General purchase advice / financing M4
Hello people, short to me : I am 22 years old and would like to fulfill my dream with a m4. I still live with my parents have almost no fixed cost per month except my mobile phone contract. I earn 3,500€ gross entry salary currently. I have looked for which and found some for 38-45k. Would it be realistic for me to finance and entertain such a car? I would live 1000€ a month enough to live. As said would be a dream of mine. Hope her kö nnt give me some helpful answers. Save stupid comments like there are other priorities. I can also tackle them in a few years.
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Understanding of the interest costs incurred
Hello all, I have in the past financed a Tesla Model 3 with almost 2% and a duration of 48 months at the ING and without deposit. I made every month special payments, so that the car (39T€) was paid within 16 months without having lost notice of quality of life with a net income of 5T€ as a worker in a group. The car was and is still mega horny. However, I want to sell it and my dream, a G-Class, we It’s used with 50T Km and before 2019 from 60-80T€. Now it’s the case that there are no penalty payments at the ING, if you replace the loan prematurely. (as with me above). Purely from the logic I should take a loan with a particularly long term (96 months) to keep the monthly rate and interest payments low. And with the special payments actually pay off the car or not? Do I have a mistake in thinking somewhere? In retrospect I would have a problem with the first credit a for 96 months….
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Do windows darken in leasing cars?
Hello together, I’m new here and I’m now waiting for my leased Ibiza which I’m supposed to be able to pick up in the 17th KW in WOB. My question is now in how far it makes sense to have the windows darkened afterwards and by a professional, because I think it would look quite chic with the white paint. Suppose I decide not to buy the car after 4 years and to hand it back to Sixt, I will have problems getting the foil off or goes the 100% with lots of Work and time off? I thank you for the nice recording and for the answers in advance. LG
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Recommended purchase Audi A4 2.7l TDI DPF vs. Mercedes C220 CDI
Hello and Merry Christmas. I hope I am in the right area with my questions. As mentioned in the title, I would like to buy one of the two vehicles. Audi A4 2.7 TDI DPF Saloon, 2008 with (inserted with 11500€) Mercedes C220 CDI Saloon, 2007 (inserted with 11390€) These are two vehicles that meet my wishes, both of the performance, optics and purchase price, consumption. My requirements are of course dedicated to the egg laying woolly milk sow. I don’t care about diesel, manual transmission or automatic, up to 150000 km of mileage, is used for short distances and long distances alike. Budget: 9000-12000€ I have already studied the data on the vehicles, but I don’t know about the reliability of the vehicles. Can you talk about the reliability of the vehicles, i.e. no major known defects occur, etc? Would there be alternatives to the two cars that don’t optically differ? A few reports about the cars would also be great.. In case of defects I assume high repair costs. Which vehicle would you choose? Hope for your help.. Beautiful holidays, Tim
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Dealers don’t want to give warranty.
Hello together, We get families growing and I am looking for my first used car. The destination of the desire is a Vw sharan. Quickly a suitable candidate was found. Equipment and price are just as desired. Only the Fzg has already 200000 Km on the clock. When talking to the dealer he asked me if I was private. I affirmed. Then he told me that he could not give me any guarantee because of the running performance. The question is now, how can he get the I can understand it, but I don’t think it’s that good. However, the offer is also unbeatablely cheap. What can I do? Buy good luck or rather leave your fingers off it? Looking forward to your advice Lg Fabian
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Commuter car by 30,000€ for big people
I’m 1.90m and I’m looking for a suitable car now. I currently have an I30 diesel with 110ps. In and of itself I’m satisfied. The seat could be longer and I lack the cruise control and the automatic. Profile 50,000km a year The day looks like this from 3km to the highway through a larger city 50km highway (110-50km/h depending on traffic) 45km highway (almost continuous 110km/h with 5-6 villages and a total of 3 traffic lights) and the whole back .. ie almost 200km a day. The I30 takes 5.2 L on average at 80km/h average speed … fortunately it runs very fluidly. I now have an E-Class W212 E200 CDI from 2014 with LED SW, multicontour seats, death angle assists, track assistant, automatic etc. All in all very good. Consumption was about 6l and drives very comfortably. Price is about 30.000€ from 9/2014 with 13tkm. So actually very fair. But to me the car is a little too big and a smaller one would suffice. W Passat with the comfort seats that can also be adjusted in the seat length or which can be advertised directly as comfort seats. Are there alternatives in the annual car range by 30,000€ and max 20,000km mileage? – Diesel – Automatic – Cruise – Comfort seats would be good – from 130ps – Blinding mirrors – Seat heating – LED ILS / Adaptive Light oÄ Looking forward to suggestions
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The MT-SuFu is total shit!
Sorry for the drastic expression, but it has to be said. As in most cases, this MT function totally fails. If I enter in the U.S. Car Forum in the SuFu the following: “Experiences with OSCW in Weinstadt”, or “Old School Custom Works” appears: NOTHING! OSCW is really one of the first addresses for US Cars and Oldies in Germany, and in the MT-SuFu there is nothing to find about this??? A real poverty certificate!
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Realtor misses termination, senior verse rights, who is liable?
1. My (registered) car should be insured with another insurance company, and for this purpose I applied to a Ves Mkler and concluded a formal brokerage contract so that the broker could take the necessary steps. To re-register the vehicle I also received the necessary documents and the insurance certificate from the new insurance company (B) and the Fz was registered without any problems. After about 2 months came from the previous insurance uncertainty. g (A) a letter, in which it was informed in spirit that the old contract was still in existence, and the old insurance company holds the “older rights”. It turns out that the broker did not terminate the old contract, and I received the notice from the broker that “there would be no problem” if the Fz were to be cancelled later this year. Otherwise, I will be asked for notification.” Another 2 weeks later I received a letter from the responsible LRA, according to which the Fz forcibly closed the contract. However, it remains the question who should now bear the costs for the procedure. After all, the broker failed to terminate the old contract. However, the latter claims that the mistake lies with insurance B, which did not handle the return transfer correctly. Curiously, another 2 Where later from insurance A came a new contract application, although before It was claimed that the old contract was valid.
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Damage in the wash road
Hello. I posted a few weeks ago in the MB SLK Forum that my wife drove into a well-known wash road and after she left the car, the car was pushed through the plant, drove off independently at the other end and hit a metal post. Later 3 witnesses indicate that the selector lever was on D. Before she got off, came from the lance… still the hint to put the selector lever on N and noticed: “Oh, they already put it on N. From this Aussa She received mail from her lawyer (covered by RV ADAC, RAC recommended by the ADAC) with the following wording: “You don’t have to prove that you didn’t make a mistake, but what mistakes the washing line operator made” and “even if he was on N before, the change in the lever position would not fall into the responsibility of the washing line operator, but into that of the holder”. However, the engine must not be switched off either. Whoever enters a wash road with these conditions accepts the contract conditions of the wash road operator. In retrospect, the contract can no longer be challenged. I can only recommend every automatic driver to avoid washing roads where the vehicle is to be left with a running engine.