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  • Error P2015 & 2513 OM642

    Good day dear community… I bruache so slowly really advice from you, I’m almost at the end of my screwdriver knowledge I drive a CLS 219 320cdi with OM642 V6 engine me spit out wurth, that the loading pressure stacker is defective, this was also the case (platinum smeared through). So I replaced it. Mistakes remained however … so I pulled off the EKAS plug on advice of some FB colleagues and the car ran back normal (some less power around below but no more emergency run) S omit was for me actually clear that the EKAS is defective … this I exchanged today everything closed and tried…. and what happens car in emergency run and the error codes are back again….. When I plug off the EKAS runs the car around without emergency run, the same game, when I install a 4.7Kohm resist, then the car runs in emergency run …. I no longer understand so slowly where the problem is…. The flaps are smooth and the sting is not broken! hope someone can help me here, colleagues thought shcon that is 100% of the DPF! but that also did not bring any improvements, I ran a second time with holes in it…. I despair so long with the car or the engine…. Exchange history of the last weeks! Charger changed EKAS exchanged AGR sensor exchanged Differential pressure sensor exchanged AGR valve cleaned Turbocharger was exchanged at 193k Km (currently 224k km)

  • Tempomat Codi plug older Mercedes

    Has anyone ever dealt with the resistance of the coding plug? I am concerned about what resistance influences what? In my W124 with the OM606Turbo I have retrofitted a cruise control of the diesel, this “overruled” but as expected, he intervenes too strongly and thus constantly commutes, which is somehow also clear because the engine is clearly more agile than everything that was installed in the w124 diesel. now I have a 0075450632 inside

  • Current discount height On-site dealer Yaris Model 2012?

    Hello together, the 2009 Yaris of my mother was cold-deformed, so now there is a total damage. Can you please tell me how the current price or discount structure at the on-site dealer(!) is to have a clue. It is to become a 1,33 executive with automatic again. From the previous dealer we might have another “old” model, now offered by the daughter Daihatsu. These produce the probably still a while further. Had with him on the telef on spoken, but not about prices etc., I find inappropriate. In advance thank you and many greetings.

  • 100,000 km!

    Halli Hello! I want to finally fulfill my dream to drive an Aygo and have now found a great car, which, however, already has 100,000 km on the clock, which should have come about on the highway. Is that still too much for a small car as 20 years ago or is that still ok? I myself will make it to maybe 10,000 km a year, the car is now 4 years old and the price is comparatively ok. Thank you for your answer, Cor inna

  • Yaris Climate Compressor

    Hello guys, does any of you know if the Yaris with automatic climate control will turn off the compressor even if it is cool enough or if it is constantly running and consumes fuel? It doesn’t always have to cool with full power. At some point it’s cool. Or does it just mix in the air?

  • Yaris 1.33 Start-stop automatic

    Hello together, you may forgive me, as a newcomer here, one or the other mistake. I have a Yaris 1.33 (101PS) Cool EZ 12/2010 with start-stop automatic. Overall, I am quite satisfied with the vehicle, but the start-stop automatic didn’t work right from the start. That means: In 80% of the stops she did not react, although all the conditions were fine. It is striking that you always react a few days, as you expect it from her, but then again My friendly partner doesn’t know how to help himself. The vehicle is in the workshop every few weeks. Always the same procedure: read out fault memory – that’s when battery charge is too low. Then recharge new battery (any bigger one) – test drive – all I.O. – I pick up the Yaris from time to time and at the next red traffic light “Eco Off”. Of course I know the usual restrictions for the function of the start-stop car Atik: not below +4°C, not above 25°C, no climate, no large power consumers etc. Only if “actively” the start-stop-automatic whistles on the general conditions and switches off even with cold engine, 35°C outside temperature with switched on climate, or at -5° (also with cold motor). So far (as far as I know) cooling water thermostat, battery (3X), eco-off switch. My workshop asks me now what to replace now?. Does anyone have any idea? Thank you!

  • Help buy a car! Peugeot 107/ Toyota Aygo

    Hello, I need your help to chew a used Peugeot 107, which is identical to the Aygo… The car is EZ 2006, Filou, petrol, with climate (cool package), very well maintained (check booklet), but has already made 132,000 km, but brakes and clutch are new ! (read that these are weak points at 107) Price: 3300 Euro at the dealer What do you say about it? Are these too many kilometers, although brakes and clutches have been made new? I am a student and need ie the car to go to university every day… So don’t need a frill, just a car that is cheap and if possible not quite as old 😉 Alternative would be a Smart cdi, but then 2004er EZ and without climate with 99000 km for about the same money… Ask for urgent help 🙂

  • My Aygo Story – crowned by defective clutch

    Hello dear people, I only have trouble with my (NEWWAGEN) Aygo bought in 2007… I don’t drive much, about 12,000 km a year. After about 5 years I am about 55,000 km. I already had the following damage and problems during this time: – water pump defective – alternator defective – water entrance back – water entrance at the doors – water entrance headlight – stone impact (ok that can always be…) – brakes front after not even 3 years – passenger seat replaced because squeaking – water entrance roof where the sky was changed two times and today the absolute crowning. I just want to go there makes a noise (can’t describe it) and suddenly I can’t kick the clutch anymore. Under the influence of massive violence I got in a gear and could get back to my parking lot. Toyota Eurocare called, towed, get replacement car. Tomorrow the car is towed to Toyota and then we see what comes out. . The right guarantee has of course expired, but I bought the extended one for 5 years which is still valid until 22.05.2012… Now I hope that the damage falls below and everything is paid. Does anyone have experience with it? Similar problems? I really don’t know what to do now. If you don’t pay it… would you repair the car or sell it or continue driving and hope that it’s nothing more? Can I hope or insist on Kullanz? The car is well maintained, has always been regularly with Toyota maintenance at the dealer, always took good oil extra etc. Was also always with additional winter checks etc.

  • Did I make the right choice?

    Hello together, I bought a Citroen C1 at the beginning of 2011, now it is for sale and I have ordered a Yaris: Yaris Club 1.33 vvt.i, 5 doorr, in Micablack incl. panorama glass roof and lounge package, warranty extension is also included to 5 years. The fun costs incl. transfer: 16500 € is that ok? I have unfortunately no direct comparison, but can someone tell me what to drive? Do you feel more power/speed/acceleration than with the C1/Aygo? I also have i gendwhat heard that the XP13 have new type classes and the insurers don’t know that and classify them as old (priced)?! Thank you in advance. Greetings Toni

  • Family car without reserves

    Hello, I need a little advice from you on a vehicle purchase especially with regard to the financial situation. We are currently driving a Volvo XC 60 (EZ2016 D4 awd) for half a year. The vehicle is fully financed with 290€/m and a closing rate of approx. 850€. Purchase price approx. 23.000€ In addition we are currently in the house construction and our driving profile has changed. Instead of approx. 17,000km/a we are now at 28-30,000km/a. We currently have 1 child (will soon 1), a zwe ites is to follow in the next years. So a car is wanted where 2 children with baby shell or reboarder fit in the back seat. Since I am about 1.95m tall and a year ago had a intervertebral disc surgery it should become a Suv. Despite this the xc60 from the 2nd child probably becomes too small (behind me no child seat fits). Since the car is used for commuting to work the consumption and wear also plays a role. This is stormy higher in an SUV therefore we like to e My real question is, what is most useful financially, especially with regard to our child and the (dear) house construction, a car has slipped for me from the weight to the bottom. I don’t want to spend so much on a car and see the extra costs for an SUV (even if it’s more back-friendly) not currently. Vans fall out categorically (we both find ugly and the body shape is also unfavorable to commute) I want possible t a small financial burden monthly. Basically also nothing speaks against older vehicles, as long as they are chic (O-Ton woman). Repairs disturb me also (less), only an old car we would have to fully finance because there are no reserves for it. The car should have automatic, comfortable seats and good light and of course space. With the annual drive power, makes there a gasoline or diesel sense? (The liter prices are currently densely populated each other) What about Most useful? Current car continue driving? Cheap 3-4 year old combo financing? “Older” car for approx. 10-12.000 ́€ finance + reperatures if necessary? Sorry for the Wall of Text, am looking forward to your advice. Greetings