Nice Sunday to all, Yes, there are already several contributions to the 1.0TSi. But all I find are already a little older and no longer up-to-date. My question would be how much your 1.0TSi (preferably 110PS) has run at the moment and what significant problems have emerged up to now. Furthermore, I would be interested in the general durability. Yes, you can never say that exactly, but you can’t find concrete statements either. Always only “modern gasoline engines keep on average between 150,000 and 2 50,000km. – In my opinion, this is a big difference whether the engine now lasts 150,000km (would be about 6 years for me) or 250,000km (would be 10 years for me). With me, this would be 4 years difference, and 4 years longer on what can save new ones makes a huge difference in the purchase of the new car at the end. Currently, I drive the Seat Leon as a combi with 1.TSi 110hp as a leasing for 60 months/5 years, but play with the idea, this after the 5 years of the Leasin G-company buy off. Or do you think I should just take another new lease after the 5 years? Greetings Fabian
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Leon battery problem
Hello I drive a leon 1.4l 16v, this one has currently 162tkm down and has been causing me problems with the battery for some time or years. it all started that I wanted to start the car one day and nothing left > battery empty. I then got started by a workshop here in the place and drove with the owner to his workshop. we built a new battery there and the master there has measured something on the light mesh and also showed me the da i Somehow the span is fluctuating, he still meant that if I didn’t change the lima I would keep catching up with this problem. now I got this new battery from the beginning of this year or was empty and didn’t charge, so we installed a used but full battery and this one has been holding since the beginning of the year… to this day. I’ve noticed for a few days that it’s probably also at the limit when I’ve ever had it 12.7x V on top. in any case I want to go today and nothing goes anymore, the reason is short and then the current is gone. after pushing it ran again and I then measured the battery after about 15 min in the empty run and again 12,7x V on it. now the question, really Lima in the eimer or something else in the direction ? which is already for some time already (where nobody can tell me what it is ) the motor runs in the stand a bit restless and the headlights and tacho lighting is quite le icht am flackern. with how much V should be ine battery ? my old man thinks at 12,xx V you would be absolutely in order. I have unfortunately no possibility to have the lima measured again since the workshops here want to fix the problem at once. ahja sometimes when I start the leon he goes straight out again, he then runs completely restless and if I want to give gas he drains off. I hope here someone can help me, I also have not so much the mass of ld that I could buy “eben” ne lima
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Central locking system
Hello everybody, I’m new here, so I’m sorry if I should forget anything. I bought a Leon, 1.6, 105 HP, as a second car. Year of manufacture 2001. The vehicle is great, it has been kept. In Jan. was the one again for inspection, new timing belt ect. for 11oo euro. The owner bought a new car, therefore sold. Know also the son of the owner, therefore the details about the car are all according to reality. The only thing that was mentioned: Sometimes ” The ZV, i.e. the re. blinker, stays on. If you close it up and off again, it goes out. I checked it myself several times. Yesterday I took over the car and of course made a ride into the mountain area in the afternoon. The car is just great. When I arrived at home, it did not work again. Unfortunately also not with repeated attempts. Light remained on and the turn signal then does not work. So I called the ADAC. Was on Unfortunately, instead of my 1.6, he entered a 1.8 engine into the test unit. He said it would be the same. Since he could not call up my turn signals there (securing was OK), he said that I had to go to the workshop. The small control unit had a defect. Who can help me here. I also called my screwdriver, who said Seat workshop would be better, since they could “read” for the first time.
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Cylinder head seal now finally defective???
a frustrated hello to the community! I already posted a few weeks ago regarding the thermostat housing and the cooling water loss! the housing I have meanwhile once sealed with holymare abe and seems to be ok! nothing however swallows my still water like crazy! was at the end of the week in the east and for the approx. 450km I poured about 4ltr water! CHECK RADIATOR was actually a constant companion! below the thermostat on the gearhouse e has also established itself again nice film cool water! when I just poured another swallow after, and sometimes smelled at the balance tank, I have the unmistakable smell of exhaust gases and sprite in the nose! can it be that I have now finally delivered the ZKD? some white smoke he does too and the empty run after the highway was also very swinging… so in the big and whole of a successful weekend ending… since I now have two weeks free it would be suitable for me the rep have luckily ever at the hand which would grind me the kopp within a day! where should I look for a ZKD set? directly at saab or are the other ones also usable? is there anything else I should do with the reperatur? control chain or something like that?? or do you still have constructive suggestions for me like the exhausts can come into the cool water?? gruss franz
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Rugging in warm condition
Hi am freshly baked Saabfahrer. Drive Saab 9000 2.3 with 107 kw build year 1990. For a few days it is extremely in a warm condition. Lambda probe and NGK candles are new. When the car is cold it starts great and I can ride it normally warm. It runs then also great. The workshop had screwed in the Lambda probe change running Beru candles for Mercedes A-Class which were all 4 after a day totally black and smelled after petrol ( electrodes, ceramic body everything sc hwarz) and they found extreme misignitions. Now, as I said, the right NGK are in it. Did the car drive yesterday about 30 km out of cold condition everything great!!! Lief round could give in the stand really gas, without errors, could also turn on and off in warm condition, without errors. Then the car was warm about 10 minutes before the purchase hall and nothing went more. Idle between 800 and 2000 up and down and strong jerking when trying to get home. And now???? Di-Box??? Throttle flap??? Air mass meters??? Who can help???
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Retrofit TT-C in G 270 CDI – Problem: blower control
Dear community, I’ve been reading with you for a long time and have been able to draw a lot of valuable information from this forum. Thank you for sharing your expertise! However, I can’t get any further on my current question. But I’m short before: I’m Immo, am 35 years old and have been living in Garbsen near Hannover and have been repairing my cars for several years and have taught me most of it myself. For almost four years I’ve been driving a G 270 CDI from 2002 with 270.000 k m. (photo in the appendix with roof box for the holiday.) When I took over the car, there were a lot of things to do. I gradually accepted the problems and learned a lot. I am a big fan of heaters and it always bothered me that my G did not install any. Therefore I bought a universal TT-C and am now busy with the installation. The heating should be switched on via an LTE module. CAN and AI remain outside. So far it is also clear that only the A. I have already read from pin 23 or 26 on the climate control panel, but I only have 16 pins. I can see which cables leave the climate control panel in the schematics. But not what the unused pins are for. Or did I miss this in the WIS/ASRA? What are the possibilities to control the ventilation? In the appendix I put photos of the plugs and pins as well as the circuit diagram of the climate control panel. P.S.: What is this black flap for? chkabel? It does not appear in the schematic. I wish you a nice evening and hope for your help.
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Speedometer adjustment
Hello together and a successful year 2025, I got a wheel set in 2024 almost. Problem is that the speedometer shows around 1-2 kilometers less than the vehicle drives. Can one make an adjustment with _Mercedes or with a suitable star diagnosis ? Thx for your feedback
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Trailer coupling Wiring W463 BJ 2002
Hi Together, I would like to upgrade an AHK on my W463 from 2002. I organized the “hardware” so far. What I still lack is the cable harness. I found a control unit in the wheel box at the rear of the driver’s side “Supplier-Connector” 0295456732(03). Is there original or accessories cable strands that can be plugged in there? I couldn’t get any further via EPC, the part number for cables are NML… the search in the forum did not bring any results, since it is always about other execution I really want to do without frigging, so put cables around everywhere and wire everything myself with Stromdueven… Thank you for tips
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W463 300GE – center console – who knows this plug
Hello and good day. First of all the vehicle data: Mercedes G-Model 300GE EZ: 20.12.1991 VIN: WDB46322717081600 2-door version Gearbox: automatic Due to another problem – had to change a pear – therefore I removed the aperture at the center console. It is the aperture below, where the switches for window lifters etc. are. I found a 3-pin plug, which is not connected. I also find nowhere where it belongs. In the scarf tplan I don’t find this part either. Here are some pictures. Does anyone have an idea for what this part is to use ?? Greetings Johann
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Problem with my G-Class 400 CDI (BJ 2006, 5-speed automatic)
Good day together, I hope for your support, because I have a problem with my Mercedes G-Class 400 CDI, built in 2006, 5-speed automatic. The vehicle starts normal and runs at full power. But after about 15 minutes the acceleration remains, although the gear D is inserted. The engine turns up, but the vehicle no longer moves. After you turn it off, and you let it cool down passes the same problem again. The following has already been tested and out chlossen: Gear sensor has already been replaced Gear oil level is in order Automatic gear control unit has been tested and works perfectly Does anyone have an idea what this might be about? I am grateful for any hint! Best regards