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Hello TT’ler, maybe one of you can help me. Have already tried the search function, but will not find quite related to my problem. I have since we have temperatures of over 30°C, a strange phenomenon with my air conditioning in my TT. And indeed after some driving distance at high outside temperatures it is so that in the vehicle suddenly such a kind of hum noise occurs and shortly afterwards the air conditioning is dropped. A few seconds later the Mag This spectacle repeats itself several times within a very short time. Understood is the whole through the fans running up and down. I noticed this behavior so far only in idle mode and in the lower partial load mode. If the temperatures in the evenings drop again to values of approx. 25°C, the described behavior no longer occurs and the air conditioning behaves absolutely normal. What could be the result of this ? Perhaps. Exp ansion valve, overpressure switch (too much refrigerant in the circuit) ? Would be very grateful for your advice.

Hello, I got 1.5 years ago and 40tkm of punched carpenters and after initial enthusiasm I have to give myself now and say that the dinger are mist. a hotspot next to the other and my steering wheel is only on the vibrating. before the dinger should now also get ripped, I want to get something else right away, since they have to be new anyway. so I found at 3,2,1..my following offer:http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160012391859 one can buy the discs without thinking and are also much better than the original ones ? not comparable with a complete brembo system, that is also clear to me… it is only about that they are reasonably braked and but also are stable. the holes of my roommen were also permanently closed. otherwise I also read good about the new brake discs, which are offered at nordmann, punched and slit. there costs a disc alone however 200€.so approx.55 0€ alone for the front axle I find too much, that’s almost the double… so, are the brembo discs recommended? (I don’t race) Greetings holger

Hello people, sometimes enough with the fuel prices yes I know the statement who drives a TT should also be able to afford the fuel. I can also afford it but I see it if I’m honest not a it’s just about the principle. The question there is a company remodeling a TT? Or maybe someone already drives with diesel in your baby. Unfortunately I drive many km about 40,000 km year but also net wants to separate from the car and also doesn’t like a 2nd car. I’m now since no For almost 4 years now, I’ve been falling for the TT and I want to keep it that way. Of course, my engine will be left with a 150hp 1.8T with 50,000 km and a Wimmer chip. Would look forward to contructive answers. Greeting Christian

Is unfortunately English, but I found it very interesting. Comes directly from Borg Warner: Quote: Dear Sir, thank you for your interest in our products. First of all, we don’t produce any turbo that we call K03S. But I hope I can answer your questions with the following explorations. All the following turbos have the same installation dimensions and thermodynamic performance. The differences are only in the actuator that opens the turbine bypass valve: K03-011 (5303 988 0011) 150 hp, 6 5 N actuator K03-026 180 hp, 85 N actuator K03-035 180 hp, 85 N actuator K03-044 150 hp, 65 N actuator K03-045 156 hp (Ibiza Cupra), 85 N actuator with 2 ports K03-049 150 hp (Sharan/Alhambra), 65 N actuator The 180 hp versions have an actuator with a higher opening force due to the higher exhaust gas pressure (which is a consequence of the higher boost pressure). Otherwise the value would be pushed open by the exhaust gas pressure. The following turbines are a further development (s since) 2000) and have an improved and slightly larger compressor while using the same turbine (still with the same installation dimensions): K03-052 180 hp, 85 N actuator K03-053 150 hp, 85 N actuator K03-058 150 hp/180 hp, 85 N actuator Consequentially, putting a 180 hp turbo on a 150 hp engine will not bring about any change in performance, but putting on a K03-052/053/058 instead of the older versions will bring a light improvement in engine efficiency. CU you can achieve about 215 hp without danger of overspeeding the turbo. With the older turbos, 195 hp is the limit. With the K04 that’s also commonly used (5304 950 0001) the power output should not be more than 220 hp. That means, changing a K03-052/053/058 against a K04 does not make a lot of sense. I hope that these details answer your questions. If you need more info, one of our service distributors will be glad to help you. Their addresses are on our website www.turbodriven.com. Best regards, BorgWarner Turbo Systems GmbH Sales IDS – Technical Support Christian Seibert

Hello. I recently got a TT. 180 HP front drive. Somehow I miss the power. Had a Corrado with 136 HP before. Can it be that with my engine what is wrong? Actually it runs quite normal. So because of clattering or rattle, you don’t hear anything. Are there any components that, if they are defective, simply reduce the power, but do not make themselves noticeable?

Hello, I have a little problem with my TT, wanted to ask if someone has heard of this problem or had it himself. As soon as the engine is really warm (so from 20 km travel distance) lights up my oil control light, but only if I have to stop before a traffic light or a crossroad or drive very slowly. As soon as I am on the road there is no problem. The oil level is of course fine. The annoying and you have a mega bad conscience, because It’s something lazy when the indicator light comes on. Thank you in advance for your answers P.S.:If this is actually a TT Macke with the temperature indicator, I’ve read so many times. mine also: times there, times away, times there, times away, real to vomit!!