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  • Turn signal, E-starter, horn and brake light no longer work

    Hello first of all. I’m new here in this forum and have a question or problem with my Rex scooter: Recently, turn signals, electric starters, horn and brake light no longer work. I have no idea why, the scooter was standing in a garage at the time and when I wanted to drive it again after 2 weeks of service, nothing of the above things worked. I only got it via the kick starter. The light works perfectly. Of course, I have s chon read several other posts on the topic and already tried a few things, but did not help anything. I checked the battery: fully charged fuse was also fine. Contacts on the battery were clean Maybe someone else has another idea what the problem might be?

  • Volvo V70-III – USB & Seat Heating – Retrofit or alternative

    Hello guys, I get in the next days a 4 year old V70-III D5 which unfortunately has no USB training and also no seat heating. Now I let myself be told by the friendly what the retrofitting would cost. For the USB I would have to pay 525 € complete. According to friendly a retrofit of the original seat heating is not possible. “Can this be?” Up to now you could always retrofit original parts. Or is from the V70-III disgruntled end with afterglow The Commission’s proposal for a Directive on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to the permissible sound power level of motor vehicles and their trailers.

  • Death, what to do?

    Hello, my father died a short time ago. In our house there are two vehicles. Both are still registered to my father and insured as first and second vehicles. The first vehicle was driven exclusively by my father, the second vehicle my mother and me. Now we want/must register the vehicles on my mother and insure them. My father had reached the damage-free class 14, i.e. 40% in the first vehicle and in the second vehicle 7, i.e. 60% in the second vehicle. r assumes that my mother can take over these percentages completely… However, my mother has only had her driver’s license since the end of 1998 and the insurance now wants to classify the first car with 50% damage-free class 7. The second car should keep its damage-free class. Isn’t there a way to take over the full percent of my father? Furthermore, it is important for the insurance of how long the vehicle is registered on the driver. if the vehicle has to be rewritten, is it for the insurance as if my mother had only owned the vehicle today and the contribution is accordingly higher. Is there a way of making the insurance clear that the vehicle is family owned and not just recently acquired?

  • What to pay attention to when buying a stinger?

    Hello, I am interested in a Stinger Bj 01/2021 with 22.869 km.What should I pay attention to when buying? I had the service booklet shown in advance. What irritates me is that only 2022 & 2023 an oil change is registered and no service. The first service is registered only 2023. Can this be so correct? With a photo of the service booklet. According to Kia service should take place every 12 months or after 10,000km. I would like already that I have no problems with the 7 years manufacturer garan Thank you for your help.

  • Cracks in varnish of plastic strip

    Hello, everybody, did anyone of you already have such cracks in the paint of the plastic strip on the roof? The cracks are only on one side and my workshop dares not apply any guarantee, since they can not determine if it was not repainted, although I wonder who should repaint only one plastic strip on the whole car. The cracks go all the way over the length. LG Julian

  • Cadillac STS Bj 1998 Temperature problems

    Hi together, I hope you can help me with a few tips.My Caddy (STS Bj 98 with 245,000Km) has a temperature problem, behind which I have not yet come. Here is a description of the problem. I often travel on highways. When I drive the Caddy speed and then come into a slow column (80-100 km/h) the temperature pops up so high in the shortest time that the DIC brings the message “engine overheated / idle recommended”. When I drive on after a few minutes (possibly more than 110 km/h), the temperature goes down. A few days ago, I drove comfortably over country roads. After 10 km (very comfortable driving, engine was certainly not really warm) then at a traffic light also the temp. briefly went up. After the further drive the temperature has normalized again. Which is certainly still important: When the temperature blows up, only cold air comes out of the heater ystem. When I travel comfortably at 150 km/h, nothing happens. Nor any problems in the city traffic (stop and go….) The problems do not always occur by the way…… I don’t believe in the cylinder head screws in this case. The cylinder head seal should also be OK. No bubbles in the cooling water, No water in the oil or vice versa. I am happy about any reasonable tip. Greetings from the district HN Martin

  • Dodge Ram Van Bj 2001 as a company car

    Hello,I am interested in a Dodge Ram B 3500 Cargo Van 5,9 Mag and the dealer told me that I only get the car approved with remodeling measures. I just read a bit and now the question arises what the costs are for admittance and the insurance per year.Here the data: Dodge RAM B 3500 Cargo Van V8 5,9 Mag. van/small bus, used vehicle price (VAT passable) 5,200 EU mileage: 79,000 km power: 180 KW / 245 hp fuel type: petrol Getrie be: Automatic Pollutant class: Euro 3 First registration:6/1999 Air conditioning: Air conditioning Colour: Grey Equipment: ABS, trailer coupling, metallic, cruise control Vehicle description: Art leather grey, power steering, stereo, automatic with overdrive, sliding door right, wing contours, partition wall. 2 airbags, trailer coupling, public transport of US-Army, only run in BRD, total running power original79000 .KM, customs duty and incl.MWSt. What else do I have to pay for?

  • Brand S80 D5 MJ08

    Dear Forists, after having brought my moose (S80 D5, MJ 08, 120tkm) to a free Volvo workshop before my vacation to have the handbrake and a cable break in the electric window lifter fixed, the master called me today, that during the last test drive the message that the Russian particulate filter is full has been lit up. They had then seen in the VIDA that the DPF is 90% full (which really amazes me with the km performance and only long distance). After a further 2 hours, the master called again and reported that the car had burned (sic!). About 15 minutes after the last drive (to burn the DPF) when the ignition was switched off inside the car from the ventilation nozzles and the CD compartment in the middle console there was a strong smoke development. When the ventilation was switched on, all nozzles and the entire centre console were swa The workshop has emptied two 10 kg CO2 extinguishers and two 10 kg powder extinguishers in the car and the engine compartment until the fire has been suffocated. Accordingly, the car now looks and will probably be difficult to fix. On the lifting platform, the area around the DPF and the cat looks inconspicuous, and also the rubber parts in the vicinity have not melted or similar. So it seems to come rather from the climate compressor area. 009 from Volvo a call back because of the misplacement of a condensation hose. If this hose is joined, water is stuck in the heating box, where the electric warning of the air is installed. My car was affected, and a new drain valve was installed at that time, according to Volvo. Apart from the fact that I am of course not very pleased that the repair of a defective hand brake ultimately led to the burning of the vehicle (there is of course only a temporal, However, I would like to read your opinion on the following points: – Is a connection between the DPF cleaning and the fire possible or likely? – Has jmd had similar experiences with short circuit, Schwelbrand or other problems in the area of the climate compressor at the S80, V70, XC 70? The master said that during the last drive before the fire the climate automatic shut off et was. After 3 Volvos my trust is now a bit shaken and I hope that this is an individual case. However, it seems to make sense to pay special attention to this model. Thank you for the answers and I report on the progress of the review. Greetings from Mannheim, Holger

  • Attention Hyundai lubricated customers

    In 2006 Bosch announced that there are diesel injection pumps that are defective and will fail to recall all diesel injection pumps. Mercedes,BMW and Chrysler have reacted and called all cars of their series from the time 2004 – 2006 back to the workshop and replaced them free of charge because yes Bosch takes over the damage. The only ones who did not see it was Hyundai who built even from 2004 to 2006 the defects diesel injection pump They waited nicely until the defective one of the diesel injection pump came out and during the guarantees you were replaced free of charge and when after the warranty only the error came just an invoice was presented to the customer and have to pay already because you need the car. Hyundai itself however the diesel injection pump plus working time received reimbursement from Bosch. Since I sel bst is affected by this with a Hyundai Tucson 2WD which is 4 years old and has only 35000km down and the pump is defective. Hyundai wanted me to pay 900 euro that was their culant (laughing).But did research and came out with this information so don’t let yourself be shitted. P.S only recall action from the Tucson : Tucson 03/2005 05/2005 Brakes – RR 711 13.01.2005 — Oeamtc — Control of the brake lines. It could be the between the auxiliary frame and the stop However, distance clips are mounted on the brake line for the vehicles concerned and additional corrosion protection is applied (1’220 vehicles). 26.01.2005 — Importer CH — In Switzerland, instead of an elaborate callback, a service action is initiated Oh yes, Hyundai is so honest according to your statements there comes another one : All 30,000 km the whole throttle flap has to be removed only with the Hyund ai Tucson Diesel (Crdi) and to be cleaned as the Rust gets stuck the throttle valve no longer works perfectly and can even abort. Why by bad material. For example also will not be replaced by a better quality. This costs the customer every time: 30 min working hour a 35 euro cleaning agent + blow out 25 euro New seal 3,85 euro Total: 58,85 euro and that every 30,000km !!!!!! I will soon not drive any Hyundai anymore !!!!!!

  • Partial cascade damage – termination

    Hello! I was originally insured with my vehicle over my mother at a different company than at present. Insurance as said always about the mother, vehicle basically registered on me. Here I had had some partial cascade damage. Not that I would always let everything be done because it costs nothing, I just had bad luck. 3 – 5 damage will have been there. Always windshield, on our dirty highway here flies in there constantly something. Now had I changed company in the middle of 2005, because I bought a new car. My representative at the time probably pointed out to me that one will probably quit this time, with so many damages, but it could not come that far, because I was simply faster by vehicle change. I avoided the highway, but well…. I had already had the percentages rewritten at the new company at the beginning of the contract. Thus the contract did not just run. I went on to another company, but with the SF discounts transferred to me to my name. Stupid, one can say, if one knows that already on the approx. 250 km long drive home by a heavy stone blow the disk !!!RISS!!! OK, there you made no bitches, the damage was paid. Now I had with the company until today no damage, but now, with my new car I have one again. Because on the great highway is ne construction site and natürli I know this company and with people who have no mercy. I know that there is a damage file for the complete, which serves to make sure that not one and the same damage can be counted several times on expert reports and to expose fraudsters at all. Question 1: Is this also true for TK? Ask me if I have a stone in my window – you only have to have bad luck. Good, okay, a stone blow in a good 2 years – that’s not unusual. e 2: If I now cancel the insurance and am simply so fast that the insurance does not make it in front of me, then I have also “officially” quit as a UN, right? Do I really see this? Can I cancel the entire contract? So with liability? BETWEEN NOTICE: I still had an HP damage and never had a VK damage. Question 3: Suppose I quit there now and look for a new insurance. Normal is not asked for TK damage. Then I don’t have to do it either. But I can also give the one well, it can just happen. Then it should be smooth with new TK? Question 4: Because of the takeover of the percentages a new course started for me. So I should have had 2 TK damage officially. Do I see that right?