Since the used car prices are currently so crazy, I think about ordering a new car. The current car is paid and will probably drive a few km without any problems. Therefore we have no pressure when the new one will be delivered at any time. I set myself up for a delivery time of at least one year (VW dealer spoke earlier of ~ 18 months), but also did not want to wait for nothing. What possibilities does the dealer have to return from the contract to tret We have 10% inflation next year. Are there clauses in the small print that the seller does not have to deliver in “special circumstances”?
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Financing despite ongoing loans?
Moin, short to the initial situation: – married, 2 children, house for rent, both are permanently employed – salary is high enough (€5400 gross) with free reserve after deduction of all costs of currently around €1000 that I could use – current loans: house bank monthly approx. €390 (until the end of 2025), car of my wife monthly €170 (until the end of 2024) – still running car leasing (until May 2023): €160 – Schufa is with me at 97% no negative entries Have now an offer of Skoda for a Kodiaq RS, kos At present, however, the delivery time is about 12 months, so that my down payment could be at 14-16k at the beginning of July 2023. So net income of approx. €36-38k. If I now conclude the purchase/financing agreement, then when will the financing be “valid”? Is everything triggered about 12 months before the delivery date? So income, employment contract, Schufa etc.? Are the two loans and the leasing “too much” u m another financing that would only start in 12 months?
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Vehicle Value Loss
Hello community, I need your help. I need a family car. What I could pull out of my pocket would be in the range 20k. I don’t drive much: 10k a year. The car would be insured in the underground car garage and with all-inclusive. I searched for a long time and even thought about new cars Kia and Co.. In the end I landed at used 3 Series GT, directly from BMW, means: about 30-50 Tkm on the speedometer and BMW warranty. I even had a test drive and find the car great: spacious, fits in my garage and looks nice. The problem is that even the 320i start with ~30k. My wish car, which would be really fun (from the engineization and equipment) would be more 35-38k. Now I think about whether I buy it and (logically) finance it. I have the reasonable rates with the credit with the closing rate. But somehow it seems strange to me: spend the money + pay each month + still remain guilty. On the contrary, one can say that a well equipped r 330i or 340i, which is still fully insured and is in garage, would not cost 0 in 6-8 years (with my mileage still under 150tkm) and possibly even more than my final rate. It can sound stupid to buy something that you can’t pay out of your pocket, but would it be reasonable to buy an older or cheaper car without financing and then get scrap at the end or invest a lot in the repair, I don’t know. So purely financially, abs even from comfort. Need a couple of experiences..
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Partial debt – All-inclusive – Quota scheme
Hello, I have a question: The following situation: I have an accident. Partial debt (sag ma 50 %). I have a comprehensive, but with an SB of 700 euros. There are no further costs than the repair costs incurred. (loss of value ?! possible ?) If I do this now about the comprehensive insurance I pay the SB in the end ? Or not ? In the Inet you can find a lot about quota regulation, only that understands no normal person. I just want to know if I have the SB has to pay or not ? I don’t know if there’s still a difference between Austria and Germany. mfg
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Need your help with the Lexus RX 350 Executive Line
If you want to switch from the Passat to the Lexus RX 350 Executive Line, you want to tell me what arguments to buy or counter-arguments would be too futile. Would be really pleased if you would share your experiences. Quality, workmanship, reliability, additional costs and other experiences. Is it worth the price and what is very important to me. What is used with it? Price 23.950 € Kilometerpower 81.100 km EZ 16.08.2006 Power 203 KW/276 hp displacement 3.456 ccm gearbox Au Tomatics Power transmission 4 x 4 Fuel type Super Colour Polar silver metallic / Polar silver Upholstery Leather Automatic climate control, 8x airbags, four wheel, light alloy wheels, electric window lifter, navigation system, electric seats, seat heating, xenon headlights, central locking, alarm system, traction control, on-board computer, cruise control, leather cushions, warranty, ESP, leather equipment, green badge, 5 gears, drive slip control, ABS, CD changer, fog lamp, power steering, color: Polarsil ber, rear seat divided, rev indicator, headlight cleaning, rear windscreen wiper, exterior mirror electric, halogen headlight, temperature indicator, HU/AU new, 12 months warranty, immobilizer, color glass, consumption inside: 15.7 l/100km, consumption outside: 8.5 l/100km, consumption comb.: 11.2 l/100km, CO2 264 g/km, 5 doors, 5 seats, ASR, maximum speed 200 km/h, navigation system (DVD)/Multimedia, air suspension, semi-active, level control., rear camera, Bluetooth-FSE, voice controlu ng, ‘Mark Levinson’ High-End, ABS, drive loop control TRC, transmission 5-stage automatic, outdoor temperature display, thermal glazing, alarm system, rev indicator, stability program VSC, light alloy rims (5) 18′, 235/55R18, window lifter electric front and rear, fog lights, rear windows wipe and wash automatic, decorative application of precious wood, climate automatic CFC-free, headrests (5) height adjustable, leather with seat heating front, DVD changer, rear seat foldable 40:20: 40, outdoor mirror adjustable and beh.(2), xenon headlights, power steering, rear window heating, all-wheel drive permanent, driver/passenger electric, armrest folds out at the front, rear mirror autom. and continuously glares., cruise control, immobilizer electronic, central locking m. radio remote.
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Request information about MultiMode transmission at Verso S.
Hello Toyota friends. I once went to your forum as a self-invited guest. At the moment I drive a Meriva A Innovation with Easytronic transmission, built in 10/2008. Due to my wife’s disability we need a vehicle with very comfortable entry and the Verso-S is actually better in this regard. Especially the leg clearance when entering direction A-pillar is decisive. As a new vehicle the Verso-S 1.4 D-4D MultiMode comes into question, or the Verso 2.2 D-4 D Automatic. I prefer the Verso-S 1.4 D-4D, because we do not need a travel vehicle in the future. Of course, I have made myself smart in publications about the quality, but I am sure that „Insider” in the forum can give even more up-to-date information about the currently installed MultiMode transmission at the Verso-S. I am interested in whether the familiar weaknesses of the previous MultiMode transmission have been fixed with the Verso-S. Thank you in advance for your information. Greeting, Ommega
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Corolla Verso D4D goes off idle
Hello together, I have the problem with our Corolla Verso D4D 2.2 (approx. 140 hp) BJ 2007 every now and then the problem that it runs out in a warm state in idle. I had the problem between November and March 4 times last winter. Until last week I had rest. Now the problem occurred again. By the way, it was cooler and damp again last week… At Toyota you could not do anything so far, as there was no error in the memory. The injection nozzles were checked with a measuring device On Monday I have an appointment where you want to do a few tests again. But I’m afraid that you won’t find anything this time either. The Toyota workshop has already signaled to me that you can’t do anything if no mistakes are found. Somehow you don’t seem to take me and my problem very seriously either, because they asked me indirectly if I didn’t strangle the engine… What should I do if nothing is found? The car After the last incident last week I was able to start the engine at the 4th try. Before that the car did not take any gas. Besides last winter it was also the case that the engine had already cranked 10 to 15 seconds in cold (0 degrees) before it started (but was only 2 or 3 times the case). Could it be that condensation water comes into the diesel circuit? Otherwise the car runs well and has no dropouts at all. Have their ideas about what it is based on. Thank you so much.
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the right 125er [a few questions]
Hello dear community! I’m sorry if I ended up here in the wrong forum section, but that’s my first entry so since I’m not too angry It’s about the following: like out of nothing the motto wheel got me excited, because my mother and my father are enthusiastic cross- and road-machine drivers. As you know, since Jannuar the 125cc rule is valid in Austria and Germany (which I don’t have to explain since I’m the new one) and that’s why I want to join ric so: my route is about 300 km long (school –> boarding school) and for that I am looking for a good motorcycle, with the right performance, should get to the 120 already, but also fun with curvy roads, because at the weekends I also sometimes stay in the boarding school and sometimes also drive to the city, which is about 30 min away. I already looked at: *Duke 125 *Yamaha YZF r125 * Aprillia RS 125 my friend says the Aprillia RS 125 2 beat i I could not get such a good picture of the duke and the yamaha. Any advice or other? (sorry if there are spelling errors) Lg xNewRiderx125 p.s: I know that this topic is sucked out, but because of the special requirements regarding the distance I wanted to ask
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I’m thinking about it.
Hello first. Have a question to you what you think about it. So: I will be in 1 nem year 16, since I want to make the 125cc driving license I have already looked around for a “motorcycle”. So there is the problem: because I have to wait another 1 year until I can drive then. I found a machine which is needed but Topp condition. I thought to buy it although I have to wait another 1 year. Since I like the model and it is just 600€ cheaper. And I just don’t want the s he who buys differently. Jez I wanted to ask you what do you think about buying motorad before I have the driver’s license (which we made in such 5 months). Mfg. FreestyleHD
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Tips, tricks and experiences regarding used purchase!!
Hello together. Like many others I also look for a used light wheel, because I can’t afford an expensive one ;/. That’s why I wanted to ask how that was with you with the used purchase. Here a few ideas: – Did you buy your motorcycle private or from a dealer? – Which type of motorcycle you are looking for, what kind of performance / should your motorcycle (have), of which brand is your motorcycle? – How many KM had your motorcycle down than you did it bought? – How much did you pay? – Were you sponsored by your parents and relatives? If so, how much did they pay (also with regard to driving license) – What are your parents/relatives on the subject of motorcycle? (are they against/for? Are there other motorcyclists in the family) – How did you find your motorcycle? (e.g. via Mobile.de or friends etc.) – How long did you take to get your motorcycle at home? Tips and tricks are also available. And of course you can write more and more. Now briefly to me: I am 17 years old and come from NRW. I have been interested in motorcycles for almost 2 years and am currently driving my A1 driver’s license (didn’t even have my first driving lesson yet -.-). I had a big problem that my whole family was against buying a motorcycle. Except for my father, to whom I finally owe that I’m going to buy a motorcycle. I can therefore only spend about 1500€ on my motorcycle, since I am only financed by my father. At the moment I watch a Suzuki VL intruder, 14 HP and 9,000km down for 170€. I’m only looking for Honda Shadows, Suzuki Intruders and Yamaha Viragos, because the rest are too expensive or too low-performance. Overall I contribute 1500€ to the driver’s license and motorcycle. The rest pays (hopefully) my father I am happy about every answer, thank you!