MOTOR-TALK

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  • So, new moose on board…

    Well, the Gaston hit today. We have a new rear-driver among us. I just made the purchase announcement, tomorrow or the day after tomorrow we picked it up. 745 Business Edition of 8/91, B200F, M47, 323,000km, white, stainless steel, TÜV 3/15, KI of the 940s (everything works), removable AHK, central locking, E-windows front, roof rack, 8x matured, summer almost new Contis, CD radio, dog grid, new shock absorber 2011, new clutch 2012, ZR & WaPu 2012, renewed, Euro 2. Floors for 1000 Euro. OK, he has 2 small defects: Viscolfäfter always runs along and the roof sky hangs down. Sounds in principle solvable. But my goodness, he is already lame. On the other hand, my 90hp pass is almost a racing car… Anyway, the one here is…http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/…/185509385-216-1544?ref=search

  • In search of the perfect 745…

    Hello, dear Hecktriebler-Fraktion, I have planned a big one: I want a 745. It’s best yesterday. So far, so bad, because the offer is much thinner than I expected. In all D, only a handful is offered, most of them as 2.3 and 2.0 suction cups. Which is not so bad, because that would be the engines of my choice anyway. Turbo, diesel and PRV at the 760 exit. Optimal would be one with mild lifting from 1989 (as far as I know), which with the 940 front has to be nich I don’t really need one with an oil quill transmission either… I know this question was probably asked billion times here, but I would have liked to have put it straight to the point: 2.0 or 2.3? And why is the durability of both of them no problem, but what interests me is the following: the 2-Lit The 115hp from the same engine capacity have helped my passats to more than practical driving performance. Torque-wise 2hp will be more from over 300ccm (well, I’m back at 740) in addition probably be clearly noticeable, isn’t it? The 2.3 l should be a very comfortable unit to drive, and not really higher than the 2 l in terms of consumption. or is the B200 even more economical? Thank you for your patience…

  • 245 sound/stop points rear axle or wheel bearing

    Hello everyone, I have been in possession since last week of a Volvo 245 year 1993, which I brought with me from Sweden. It is a “240 Classic”, i.e. from the very last series of 200 (or 240?) pieces, which were numbered individually at the time, with certificate of authenticity from the factory and badge on the dashboard. Mine has the no. 46, so is the 46-letz-built of all 200s. My experience with this vehicle type is so far rather small, so I hope that someone from The visit to the TÜV resulted in some minor defects, nothing serious, to fix everything really well. Among other things, the rear brake discs are strongly corroded, so that I first dismantled everything. So the brake calipers and the brake discs. Also so far well, the discs have quickly “must be persuaded” by a 5 kg hammer to leave your original seat. The problem now is that when turning the wheel hub (left or right) reg When the motor with inserted gear is running, it is not noticeable to hear. Is this so normal? Can a locking differential be installed here? Or have the wheel bearings been destroyed when the brake discs were removed? The effect is exactly the same on the left and right. I transferred the car to Germany on my own axle last week, it was so normal. Thanks very much al for your support! //Jörg

  • 945 Polar KBA 9101 749 : Exhaust suspension

    Hello dear HAler. yesterday I brought my 945 Polar (Classic) over the TüV. Renewed all kinds of axles and brakes. Problem: It felt shackled in the rear part at ground unevenness. I quickly found a source and calmed down. The small toolbox at the back right. There was a screwdriver loose and loud with every floor shaft. But there is something else: The friendly one thinks that the exhaust can hit the HA. Can I imagine well, since the asupuff only at the front Is this normal or is there a suspension missing? Who can tell me about the correct suspension of the complete exhaust? Another thing: the electric height adjustment of the headlight on the left front does not work anymore (although you never need … what is the most common cause and where do you get replacement? Greeting Uli

  • Sale or price presentation 960

    Hello friends of the last real Volvos, I wear to sell with the thought of my beloved 960 II, because I need a more off-road and spacious vehicle for my hobby. I drive a 960 II model year 1996 saloon 2.5 170 hp switch (motor B6254FS). The good piece has around 168,000km on the clock and is technically and visually in good condition. Everything runs, every switch works, session, climate, etc. I believe the Volvo has the Ausstat However, I am not sure if it is Couture with driver’s seat memory function, automatic climate control, leather steering wheel, wood on doors and amatures etc. Visually, only the slightly worn leather of the driver’s seat and the interior door covering (well leather on the window intakes) and the one or other scratches can be faulted. All maintenance was carried out to the respective cycles. Many wear parts such as brakes, suspension (or triangle handlebars, no idea, am not v The car drives wonderfully without any problem. Now to my question: I find it hard to find a realistic price. Comparison objects with so few kilometers do not exist in the usual car sales portals. What do you think I could use or know your point of contact or on old Volvos specialized buyers etc. or which sales medium would you use? I am grateful for every suggestion. Christian

  • Alfa GT 2.0 JTS transmission / circuit

    Good morning, As the title already reveals, it is about the transmission / circuit of my Bella. 1. If the engine and the transmission are really warm, the return gear cracks sporadic when inserting. In the cold condition this is not the case. What can this be? – Have to change one way or another before the transmission oil on the WE against corresponding Castrol EPX90 – can it be that it gets better? (The first filling is now 100tkm or 10 years inside) 2. If I am strong from the first gear or with I often don’t get it in. I press the lever on the left and pull it in direction 2. It feels like there’s a kind of cone that prevents it from inserting (it doesn’t crack or nothing grinds or the like, I just can’t get any further). If I “get around the cones exactly”, however, it can be inserted problemlessly – without cracking and force. If I drive normally, it’s not a problem to put it in. – (See also 3) 3. The circuit feels a bit tacky. If the gear is inserted you have in every direction about 1cm game. You find the gears all without any problems they can be easily inserted and stay inside but somehow this bothers me. – Have already read some of a switch box / shawl backdrop / switch block / rope pull etc. but that was all for other Alfa models. Is a remote diagnosis possible here or should I drive to the dealer? I didn’t actually have any e Pleasure for troubleshooting to spend money on what I could invest in spare parts that I can install myself… BTW: The clutch I tested the works I hope you had a nice Easter and a pleasant weekend

  • purchase advice 156 2,5 v6

    hello alfa friends unfortunately the sufu did not bring me enough information therefore I open a new topic! I decided to buy a 156 2.5 v6! the purchase decision is first and foremost the wonder beautiful design and the fascinating v6 engine! now are however still a few questions open, the while: is the 156 v6 really as susceptible as many say? how high is the realistic consumption of sporty driving excellent country road? is this aut o from the spare parts and maintenance (if you can do a lot of yourself and my friend mech. is at alfa) affordable for a otto-normal earner? what do you have to pay special attention to when buying this model from which run performance would you leave the fingers off? calculate so with 600€, you get for this money already well maintained exemplare (prices refer to Austria)? what I still want to say: I buy this alfa not so that I get cheap from a to b for there s I have my mazda, it serves rather as a second car for beautiful Sunday exits! I am also aware that so many an alfa needs a lot of love and inclination, so for me a car is not only some object! I have no two left hands and already guess of cars! would look forward to numerous tips of 156 drivers! mfg harry

  • Performance dispersion in the Alfa 156 1.8TS

    Hello, I recently bought an Alfa 156 1.8TS… already before I bought the test drive, I noticed that the car is unusually fast and powerful for a vehicle with 1.8 liters of engine capacity… Well, it’s not a small machine but I didn’t expect this brachial force… So I drove out the car on the highway and the speedo needle went well over the 240 km/h… At first I thought the speedo was broken, but then I took a nav. .. Top speed on the Navi was 237km/h on straight road… After that I had the car tested on a test bench… Result: 144KW so almost 200hp… That’s why I have a few questions for you: Is there anyone else whose 1.8 is so different from its performance??? Or can it be that there is a fault in the factory data and the car does not have 144 HP but 144 KW??? It is not impossible to get 200 HP out of a 1.8L engine… think of the Ho nda S2000, the 240 hp delivers at 2 liters of engine capacity or various other overturned high-tech cars from the Far East… Would be grateful for your advice…

  • GT 3.2 V6 with 160tkm

    Hello people, apart from the suspension problem, timing belts and oil and so I have another question. I heard, the V6 easily manages 300tkm and more if the driver treats it properly. I have now discovered one with, one without LPG conversion. Are the gas resistant? Or should I rather take the without gas? both run around 160tkm. Otherwise, timing belts, crossbars and entire front axle testing is so the most important thing in the mileage or? Or is there something that in the km performance must be made before like e.g. bearing shells with the e36 M3

  • Alfa 147 Purchase price

    Hello together, I am thinking of buying an Alfa 147 1.6 TS 105 eco from the dealer. The car is rust-free, had the last service at 50,000km. The dealer would change the timing belt, as well as remove new TÜV and a small rust spot at the wheelhouse by Smart Repair and the circuit is somewhat cumbersome, is also done. Purchase price from the dealer 7500 we agreed on 7000 Euro if I now agree. Test drive had already been and I was with it also at the Fiat/A Ifa dealer who also told me that the car is all right. And here I trust the car master already. He was just not sure about the price.