Hey together, short history: My scooter started getting worse and worse, then changed (gear) oil, new spark plug, V-belts, air filter, petrol filter, Vario weights, even the carburetor I had replaced, but everything had helped nothing and got worse and worse until it came to the point that the kickstarter eventually stopped moving, really no more. Now that I was running out of a piston eater, I bought a complete set with new pistons, Bolts, rings, seals and cylinders. The package also came today, compared the cylinder optically before and then started to disassemble the scooter. When I was ready to pull off the cylinder, he refused and did not move a millimeter, I first tried to help with a rubber hammer and later went over to seam a screwdriver using the rubber hammer, but that also did nothing. I once took a photo of it. t, if the cylinder hadn’t had 2 screws next to the 4 that can be seen in the photo, I would swear the part is welded… You don’t even see where I tried to hit the screwdriver in.
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Speedfight 2 lc after start he runs short and then he goes out
hey, I had a little bit damaged on the gas train and then I tried to fix it, it also went on but it was only clockwise so at first only 5-10 kmh got really funny to drive, but after 1-2 min everything went reasonably normal again. Leave a short scooter, turn it on again and then the same again. Then I turned it off again and then he didn’t go home at all. Then I ordered a new carburetor, of course built in etc. nu n he went after felt 100 kicks times and ran so about 5-10 seconds then he goes out again, then I have to kick again about 5 times and then the same, at the stand gas I screw already all the time around does not really what, mixture setting I took over from the old carburettor. Hope me someone can help ^^ MfG
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Peugeot Speedfight 4 LC electronics problem!
Good day together, I drive over 2 years my 50cc Speedfight 4 Darkside LC without any problems, but for a few days with connected battery (with running motor) neither the illuminated speedometer and the turn signals works. I kick the scooter (with connected battery) as described above still nothing works except the normal driving light + main light + brake light. The E-starter works. But I hang the battery and kick the scooter, everything works w he it should, except the turn signals, which flash very quickly in a row. But they work so half way! The battery is fully charged or new. I unfortunately have no plan of the electronics, but the 2 fuses in the helmet compartment are ok. I could not find another fuse. Does anyone have a tip for me on what it can be? For suggestions I am very grateful!
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cas&: K-CAN line error
Hello, I recently had a chip replaced on the ECU with hope the error goes away (CY320). The error has unfortunately remained. I also have a k-Can error, I think the errors come from it? Does someone vlt know about it or had the same error. Thanks in advance, photos of error codes are in the attachment it is a Mini cooper clubman Bj 2011 98ps with almost 155,000 km. I had at the beginning only the error with the sensor CY3520 and Ped The errors are still to be seen in the photo. It only arrived at and sometimes this k line error occurred. The deleted and then he did not come for a while. I changed the pedal module but did not bring that. I then asked in the forum here and I was told by someone who had exactly the same error picture that it was the sensor. Chip was on the motor control unit, it is the chip, CY3520 I then had this changed. Jetz t I just have the error picture that the two errors are still there. So sensor and pedal encoders and the K line error remains permanently there in the engine control unit and the other ECU is still inside. Maybe all errors from the K line error are? Or does someone have another plan? I really don’t know any more and I’m desperate. I really need help from anyone who knows about it. Write this thread new because my old one is very true. It’s way too far down.
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Purchase advice G270cdi
Hello dear G-community, after two years of searching I think I have finally found my G. It is a short 270 cdi in black with black leather seats, heating without a lot of rust and 245000 kilometers run by private, first hand and with all checkbook entries of Mercedes for 22000 €. What do you think the price is justified, what should I pay attention to when running?? I can’t look into the technology, I see the condition of the car yes, Unt erboden is also quite ok. I am especially concerned about ev. Macken, which could occur with this mileage and which you do not see. Thank you for your answers.
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Saab 93 = Opel Vectra??
Hi, I’m new here in the Saab forum and I’m interested in a SAAB 93 1.8 without a turbo. How are your experiences with the vehicle?? Is the engine, the gearbox and the chassis identical to the current Opel Vectra. You often read this the manual gearbox, scratching in cold condition. That wouldn’t be so nice. And could you also keep the Saab waiting in an Opel contract workshop?? (There is no SAAB dealer around 100KM here) Thank you for your answers Greeting
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SAAB 93 SC 1.9 TID vs. A4 2.0 Avant TDI
Hello, because of a special circumstance (see 9-5 forum) I drive a temporary 9-3 SC 1.9 TID. Now I had the opportunity to make a direct comparison with the A4 TDI. A4 + quiet engine with very luxuriant pull capacity + successful interior design with beautiful materials + sufficient space conditions in front, rear and in the KRaum + smooth circuit + appealing exterior design + good operating comfort with some exceptions + solid feel (door flap) + good Seat comfort (S – Line) – hard chassis (S-Line) – heavy-duty power steering – no EFH rear 9-3 SC + even quieter engine with even more luxuriant driving performance + chic interior design + more spacious front, rear and KRaum + nice detail solutions such as rear cover etc. + rich but not too hard chassis + very good operating comfort with additional sereinstandard extras + very nice exterior design + price advantage of about 1500 € with better standard equipment – material from choice not as successful as in the Audi – heavy circuit – gear tuning not optimal – did not look quite as solid in the door area as the Audi Bottom line, the SAAB is not quite as perfect as the Audi, but appeals to me more because of the design. Besides the SAAB, the Audi looks like a design that is no longer up-to-date. And, the differences in the technical area are marginal in my eyes. I could imagine the 9-3 well in my garage, but with car metik and perhaps as Aero :-))) Greetings AD900
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From April, deer action again?
Does anyone know if there will be discounted chip tunings from April on? Last year, for example, the update for the 1.9 TiD cost only 999,- instead of 1276,- EUR. In the Amiland some dealers already advertise with it, but of course they can also be an independent action!? Btw: Why did I actually pay attention to the case in the complete article? I think I’m getting old…
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Spritsparthread?
there is already a spritsparthread here? I now have the cabrio with the 2.0t engine since 1mon. At first I was still well over 8liter / 100km (which I guess is why) but I seem to want to go to the car. today I was down to 7,1 and would say that this is still to be underbid! and brainwashed should it sink again??? from neugierde: what do you others have like this?
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On which axle should I mount my new tyres? Old tyres are only one year old
Hello dear forum members, I am very new here and I would like to ask a question, where I would be very grateful about tips. I ordered two new summer tyres for my Opel Astra G Caravan 1.6 today. It is the Vredstein Sporttrac 5 with normal groove profile. Last summer I already bought two new summer tyres of the type Vredstein Sporttrac 3. However, these have a V-profile and were mounted last year on the front axle. Since my car At the moment these are now on the rear axle. Now I am already thinking all day about whether I should now mount the new tyres on the front or the rear axle. Actually I wanted to make the new ones on the front axle, but I also read a lot in the forum about the fact that the rear axle is more important. However, since the tyres from last year are also quite new, w I’d like to ask you what you think about mounting the new tyres also the front axle and leaving the rear one with the V-profile on the rear axle.. I planned this so, because in case I mount the V-tires again on the front axle an ever-increasing profile difference between the “old” and the new will occur. Is it also more useful to mount the V-profile at the rear or rather at the front? About answers and tips I would be very grateful to you and would like to ask you h very happy, thanks already and many greetings Robin