Moin, I hope you’ll be able to help me a little bit. Unfortunately, I can’t research the order of the different Suzuki Alto models. My research to date is as follows: As the first model in Germany I identified the model SS80G with 0.8L three-cylinder and 29 kW. Construction time 1979 to 1984. The successor model in Germany is the model EC/CA71 with also 0.8L and 29 kW. Construction time 1984 to 1989. This model closes the model EF with 1.0L engine, with 40 to 43 kW Moto The model FF is connected with a 1.1L engine with 46 kW. Construction time 2002 to 2006. The current model is the model GF with 1.0L engine and 50 kW, built since 2009. Do these data vote? Where are the errors? Can you please help me to assign the models and construction times correctly? Greeting Kester
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Rugging at Swift 1.0
Hi guys! Got a question… Drive a Suzuki Swift 1.0 bj.1997, and lately the engine is running a little quiet at the lower speeds, it is jerking a little bit, or the car is jerking something, as if it is held by something and can only drive hard. (as if you had put on the handbrake while driving). But it was ok. Had also had first inspection, everything was ready. Can it lie on the gearbox? Not technically so savvy. Just from the first in The second gear can sometimes be switched without it jerking…How much turns do you turn into the second? Maybe I don’t pull it high enough, mostly up to 3000 rpm. Can it be that the gearbox wants to be generally sensitive to the Swift 1.0? Have read something like this here… Greetings suzuki driver
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Suzuki SX4 – Caravan suitable and otherwise good?
Hello, intend to sell my Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi (130 hp, Diesel Automtik) and buy me a Suzuki SX4 Diesel 1.9 with 120 hp. However, the trailer load is not the biggest in the Suzuki, but it would be enough for me. But do the 120 hp? I often drive pass roads in Switzerland with the team. Furthermore, I would have the choice between the SX4 and the SX4x4. Is the four wheel worth it? Are children’s diseases known at the Suzuki? For a few infos I would be grateful.
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Show your Suzuki’s
Hello Send a few pictures of your Suzuki ́s Is always quite interesting to marvel at the cars of others.
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Cylinder head gasket / cooling water in oil Saumrai engine G13B
Hello to each other ! I have had a Suzuki samurai for about 8 months, with which I was very satisfied so far. It is the engine G13B, with 70 hp and injector. Recently he stopped after only about 1 km drive, after a short inspection the thing was actually clear: cylinder head seal. The whole cooling was in the oil, I had only recently had controlled, there was still everything OK – so that must have happened quite plötzilch. So off to the workshop around the corner, I have my good a It makes the cylinder head down, and clear thing: seal down, but the head is so uneven that it has to plan a total of 1.5mm ( ! ) in order to get a clean bearing. After he has put everything together cleanly, however, the problem exists, i.e. after half a kilometer the same result, he estimates about 2 liters of cooling water are again in the engine. The master thinks that there must be a second leak, what to find so It would be difficult that the engine is no longer repairable. Now, of course, I am quite insecure; 2 massive leaks simultaneously in one engine? That’s as unlikely as I think! Who has experience with, or can help me find a suitable engine? There is only one oil pipe in the head, since almost only the cylinder head seal can be damaged again, why always. I would be very happy about a few good tips, many thanks in advance! russe, Tom
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So, new moose on board…
Well, the Gaston hit today. We have a new rear-driver among us. I just made the purchase announcement, tomorrow or the day after tomorrow we picked it up. 745 Business Edition of 8/91, B200F, M47, 323,000km, white, stainless steel, TÜV 3/15, KI of the 940s (everything works), removable AHK, central locking, E-windows front, roof rack, 8x matured, summer almost new Contis, CD radio, dog grid, new shock absorber 2011, new clutch 2012, ZR & WaPu 2012, renewed, Euro 2. Floors for 1000 Euro. OK, he has 2 small defects: Viscolfäfter always runs along and the roof sky hangs down. Sounds in principle solvable. But my goodness, he is already lame. On the other hand, my 90hp pass is almost a racing car… Anyway, the one here is…http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/…/185509385-216-1544?ref=search
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In search of the perfect 745…
Hello, dear Hecktriebler-Fraktion, I have planned a big one: I want a 745. It’s best yesterday. So far, so bad, because the offer is much thinner than I expected. In all D, only a handful is offered, most of them as 2.3 and 2.0 suction cups. Which is not so bad, because that would be the engines of my choice anyway. Turbo, diesel and PRV at the 760 exit. Optimal would be one with mild lifting from 1989 (as far as I know), which with the 940 front has to be nich I don’t really need one with an oil quill transmission either… I know this question was probably asked billion times here, but I would have liked to have put it straight to the point: 2.0 or 2.3? And why is the durability of both of them no problem, but what interests me is the following: the 2-Lit The 115hp from the same engine capacity have helped my passats to more than practical driving performance. Torque-wise 2hp will be more from over 300ccm (well, I’m back at 740) in addition probably be clearly noticeable, isn’t it? The 2.3 l should be a very comfortable unit to drive, and not really higher than the 2 l in terms of consumption. or is the B200 even more economical? Thank you for your patience…
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245 sound/stop points rear axle or wheel bearing
Hello everyone, I have been in possession since last week of a Volvo 245 year 1993, which I brought with me from Sweden. It is a “240 Classic”, i.e. from the very last series of 200 (or 240?) pieces, which were numbered individually at the time, with certificate of authenticity from the factory and badge on the dashboard. Mine has the no. 46, so is the 46-letz-built of all 200s. My experience with this vehicle type is so far rather small, so I hope that someone from The visit to the TÜV resulted in some minor defects, nothing serious, to fix everything really well. Among other things, the rear brake discs are strongly corroded, so that I first dismantled everything. So the brake calipers and the brake discs. Also so far well, the discs have quickly “must be persuaded” by a 5 kg hammer to leave your original seat. The problem now is that when turning the wheel hub (left or right) reg When the motor with inserted gear is running, it is not noticeable to hear. Is this so normal? Can a locking differential be installed here? Or have the wheel bearings been destroyed when the brake discs were removed? The effect is exactly the same on the left and right. I transferred the car to Germany on my own axle last week, it was so normal. Thanks very much al for your support! //Jörg
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945 Polar KBA 9101 749 : Exhaust suspension
Hello dear HAler. yesterday I brought my 945 Polar (Classic) over the TüV. Renewed all kinds of axles and brakes. Problem: It felt shackled in the rear part at ground unevenness. I quickly found a source and calmed down. The small toolbox at the back right. There was a screwdriver loose and loud with every floor shaft. But there is something else: The friendly one thinks that the exhaust can hit the HA. Can I imagine well, since the asupuff only at the front Is this normal or is there a suspension missing? Who can tell me about the correct suspension of the complete exhaust? Another thing: the electric height adjustment of the headlight on the left front does not work anymore (although you never need … what is the most common cause and where do you get replacement? Greeting Uli
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Sale or price presentation 960
Hello friends of the last real Volvos, I wear to sell with the thought of my beloved 960 II, because I need a more off-road and spacious vehicle for my hobby. I drive a 960 II model year 1996 saloon 2.5 170 hp switch (motor B6254FS). The good piece has around 168,000km on the clock and is technically and visually in good condition. Everything runs, every switch works, session, climate, etc. I believe the Volvo has the Ausstat However, I am not sure if it is Couture with driver’s seat memory function, automatic climate control, leather steering wheel, wood on doors and amatures etc. Visually, only the slightly worn leather of the driver’s seat and the interior door covering (well leather on the window intakes) and the one or other scratches can be faulted. All maintenance was carried out to the respective cycles. Many wear parts such as brakes, suspension (or triangle handlebars, no idea, am not v The car drives wonderfully without any problem. Now to my question: I find it hard to find a realistic price. Comparison objects with so few kilometers do not exist in the usual car sales portals. What do you think I could use or know your point of contact or on old Volvos specialized buyers etc. or which sales medium would you use? I am grateful for every suggestion. Christian